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Clutch Masters T/O bearing

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tacoma Parts Marketplace (2005-2015)' started by Whitebutler, Feb 27, 2021.

  1. Feb 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM
    #1
    Whitebutler

    Whitebutler [OP] No need to compensate!

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    From up in dem woods
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    06 black sand Perl access cab. 99 T4R
    33s and stryker440 10 meter conversion to 11 radio
    Went back to stock set up. This one needs a rebuild. Asking $200.

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  2. Feb 27, 2021 at 3:06 PM
    #2
    ToyotaBurrito

    ToyotaBurrito Well-Known Member

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    Out of curiosity, why did you go back to stock?
     
  3. Feb 27, 2021 at 3:12 PM
    #3
    SparkyIX

    SparkyIX Well-Known Member

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    Same^
     
  4. Feb 27, 2021 at 3:40 PM
    #4
    brian.gonz

    brian.gonz Well-Known Member

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    Pardon my ignorance what is this?
     
  5. Feb 27, 2021 at 3:58 PM
    #5
    Whitebutler

    Whitebutler [OP] No need to compensate!

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    From up in dem woods
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    06 black sand Perl access cab. 99 T4R
    33s and stryker440 10 meter conversion to 11 radio
    Throw out bearing seal blew out at 2000 miles and I'm over trying to get a new seal kit.
     
    TXpro4X4 and SparkyIX like this.
  6. Feb 27, 2021 at 4:04 PM
    #6
    Whitebutler

    Whitebutler [OP] No need to compensate!

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    John
    From up in dem woods
    Vehicle:
    06 black sand Perl access cab. 99 T4R
    33s and stryker440 10 meter conversion to 11 radio
    Throw out bearing for a hydraulic clutch in the manual transmission 2nd gen.
     
  7. Mar 1, 2021 at 9:10 AM
    #7
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Toy Stuff..... Faktor Amber lights on in the grill. Under front bumper led rock lighting. Center counsel c.b mod with under the hood p.a. Anytime foglight mod. R.G.B tape light for inside toekick lighting. Front and back. Front weathertech floor mats. De-Baged except TOY on tailgate. FJ style 6 speed shifter knob. Rubber tacoma bed mat. Trd exhaust. Trd 16in beadlocker style wheels. Electrical a/c 115volt plug/usb mod next to passenger knee. Fox 2.5 coilovers. Icon 2.0's in the rear. Rear locker any-time mod. Abs kill switch mod. All Pro ISF front skid Pelfrey built front differential skid Baja design pro pods Rigid pods CBI pods brackets Mobtown tailgate guard RIP Mobtown Caliraised rear amber pod lights CJ Jumper- map, running, amber fog, reverse, and license plate led bulbs Pedal Commander
    Thank you for this!
     
  8. Jul 1, 2022 at 4:25 PM
    #8
    dborrer

    dborrer Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Dan
    St. Augustine, FL
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    2018 new Frame (thank you Rust!), FJ T-case swap. SPC(LR) UCAs, Bilstein 5100s front - rear, OME 883 at 0, HeadStrongOffRoad 3 leaf progressive AAL, MESO custom 2nd gen (Red/White) LED dome & Ultimate Maps, Spyder Halo Projector w LEDs (which SUCK), Spyder LED tails
    Just throwing this out there: Setting on the shelf for probably 2 years, from a group buy when I feared my stock clutch was about to go out... its still going and I don't have the desire to do this swap any more, so For Sale best offer plus shipping from 32080.

    I was all excited and have the Oil cap in use in the truck... it is their aluminum Blue color and will go with the sale.

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  9. Jul 1, 2022 at 10:49 PM
    #9
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    When I got mine, I took it apart easily by hand, and applied either Dow Corning or Castrol Red Rubber grease, to the rubber seal, because it is rubber.

    So that it works. To lubricate it, to keep it hydrated/from drying out (grease is protective), and to lubricate any friction it may have against parts around it to try and prevent tearing/ripping (that I imagine would cause a leak) due to rubber being fragile.
    Those above greases being around a couple bucks.
    (there is probably some friction, given a TOB's job is to spin)

    Why would anyone not do that?
    Especially while the part is out, clean, new, and not installed/hard to get to
    99% of the time on vehicles, it never hurts to lubricate things, only helps. Unless you're pouring oil on a brake pad, making something supposed to have friction become slippery

    Kind of like rebuilding a brake caliper. The seal kits come with rubber grease. You don't just slap them in (some people do); they recommend to soak in the grease such as using a plastic cup
    I'm sure brakes work similar. Piston, bore, DOT4, seal
     

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