How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Cool. Not sure I want to spend $125 to print the template. But we’ll see what other options I have.

 

Walker Evans branded replicas, most certainly outsourced, I think Tire Rack still sells some iteration of them. They were cheap!

To stay on topic, I am headed to Canada from MA this weekend, looking forward to a more thorough shakedown than she's seen so far. If I've learned anything from this project, its this: If you are going to build your camper out of an existing Aluminum Utility Shell, reinforce the living shit out of it. I can't bandaid mine fast enough. Planning to eventually strip the cap down to the bare frame and copy it with steel so that I can reuse the doors, windows and aluminum skin. Unless I am able to construct enough additional pylons to stop the ongoing fatiguing. Triangulation is your friend! But also the uprights on these caps are a lot less structural once you cut the top of the cap off... Going to a good TIG welder tonight to try and patch it up to kick the can down the road a little longer.

 

I started with an aluminum utility shell too. As I was building it, I got more and more concerned that it wouldn’t hold up. So ultimately I ended up rebuilding the frame from 1-1/2” SQ. x 1/8” wall tubing. I’m still not sure if it will hold up but it’s a lot stronger than before.

 

That was the right way to go. I trusted too much of the original structure and I am paying for it big time.

 

If you're really on a tight budget or don't have time to wait.. some software programs allow you to print tiled pages to a regular 8.5 x 11" printer.. then you can tape them together. Of course grid lines of some sort help with alignment.

 

I've done that before for smaller projects. This would be about 168 pages to stitch together

 

Holy cow! what size is it?

 

Yeah... tedious with the potential for an error.

Is anyone familiar with a service that allows customers to upload a vector file and choose from popular sunbrella/canvas materials?

..or perhaps we have an enterprising TW member with a [large] CNC table router that can be easily converted to drag-knife that'd like to offer a new product/service?

 

It’s the template for the tent canvas. So approximately 56” x 246” +\- a few inches.

 

I think I’m going to have the local staples print it on 36” x 48” sheets then split them together. Also, it’s symmetric so I’m only going to do half of it then flip it to mark the other side. That knocks it down to 5 sheets to split together. That’s much more manageable.

 

I had a local guy whos handy with a sewing machine do mine, I think he just used the print file as a drawing and then recreated it on the actual material with a chalk pencil. If all of the measurements are there it shouldn't be too hard to do that way with a tape measure and a square. Might save you some trouble! I haven't looked at them in a while though, can't remember if everything you need is actually on the drawing.

 

An observation I've made is many builders, Go Fast included, run the Southco. style latches vertically to lock onto the space frame on the side panels. I've also seen builders run side panel latches horizontally and latching to a small metal flange welded to the space frame. I love the cohesiveness of all the panels running latches horizontally. My question is, would there be any draw back from running the side panel hinges horizontally, putting them a little higher on the panel versus a little lower on the panel and contacting the bottom rail of the space frame? I'm wondering if elevating them slightly on the panel has any effect on how sealed the panel will be at the bottom where it contacts the space frame. I assume stiffer panels probably don't get effected as much as one of the composite panels with some flex to them. I will personally be using some 1/8" aluminum panels.

 

Found a good deal on 3mm and 5mm Econolite Corrugated Aluminum 4x8 sheets. They’re white/brushed aluminum. Anyone have any experience/suggestions as to its effectiveness? They’re priced at $85. Attached are my Maxmetal quotes.

I’m worried about the 4x8 sheets stitched together for the roof so I may bite the bullet on the 5x10 from a local supplier but I feel like these would be great for bulkhead, side panels and floor. TIA.

 

What I learned that whichever direction you decide to run the latches, lower to the panel edge and closer to the corners works best. Less panel flexing and better weather sealing.

 

Thank you for reassuring my assumption.

 

A couple of quick questions. How is everyone dealing with the corners of the tent material? I’ve got a pretty sizable gap I’m trying to figure out how best to fill. Example in the pic.
Also my frame seems to twist a fair amount when I open/close it. I haven’t got the top and bottom skins on it yet so I don’t know if that’s contributing or if it’s the hinges. Is there a hinge anyone is using that they feel is particularly strong? I need to move mine all the way to the corner because the struts are still pushing the side Fram rails slightly forward so my latches get very tight.

 

Mine is like that and I didn’t have a problem when I camped at Olympic where it rained at least 4 nights. It wasn’t a storm but it stayed pretty dry

 

Taking the plunge. End of day 2. Going for a straight space frame as opposed to having a slight tilt forward. When I set the frame on the truck I realized I cut and welded the bar over the tailgate ‍♂️ No wonder I didn’t have any tube left for for the sleeping area.

Also ordering extrusion form TNUTZ here soon going with a 94” length over the max 96” they offer to save about $150 in shipping. Definitely open to comments on that! I don’t want a ton of overhang in order to still use the factory rack for skis and what not.

And yes, that is a Zamboni in the background!

 

Anyone have any idea on how capable a GFC tent material would be? Found a decent deal on just the fabric and I’m thinking it could save me a bit of headache sewing. The GFC sleeping are is 90”x50” and based on the Ripcord plans that would make the sleeping area right around 6”. Seems like it would work to be considering they also use Keder rail for mounting

 

Getting closer.