Oldie2007 - The Little Big Red Readers Digest Renovation, Revival, and Restoration Thread.

Happy 15'th Birthday LBR! Phase 48, Part the Third (again)...The Final Finale
(Because 7 pictures too many.)

So, the final walk around.







One last detail....



And the Birth Certificate to make it official!



I don't know when it will be, but WAIT! There's More!

 

Random Work.

Front camera number four. Built better than what I had - picture about the same. Problems with the last one were probably all in the wiring the AC guy "helped himself" to.

$46 Pyle Flush Mount Rear View Camera - Marine Grade Waterproof 1.25'' Cam Built-in Distance Scale Lines Backup Parking/Reverse Assist IR Night Vision LEDs w/ 420 TVL Resolution & RCA Output PLCM22IR

Flush Mount Rear View Camera - Marine Grade Waterproof 1.25'' Cam Built-in Distance Scale Lines Backup Parking/Reverse Assist IR Night Vision LEDs w/ 420 TVL Resolution & RCA Output - Pyle PLCM22IR : Electronics (amazon.com)

And I finally managed to remember to order some windshield trim. Scooped out the mastic along the passenger side for the XM wire, and put it on. Universal fit stuff...





But Wait! There's more! There's always more....

 

A Little Nut, A Little Rubber - Phase 49; or Why Did It Have to Hit 100* Today?

We left LBR in December, missing a little bolt in the frame that the sway bar mounts to. And now, the resi bracket mounts there, and sway bar attaches to that. No matter, missing the nut. I bought a tool, and have even used it once! While I'm there, it makes sense to me to replace the sway bar bushings - cheap and easy.





Getting the mounts off wasn't too bad - obviously someone strong tightened them! Here's the resi mounts with 2 hex bolts, and one hex bolt. @Slimwood Shady and @SCOTT'S TACO LOCO used the strap to hold it in place where the nut lost its weld. Nice & cloudy this morning!





Removing the bracket, reveals the "slightly off" bumper mounting brackets. Might have had a little off road use - not by me of course! I had wondered if I could make a "slot cut" from the side where it was off, but that is a little too "articulate" to do while mounted. And it's getting hotter. So.....





So, nutsert time. Tool is great, if a little difficult to maneuver under the truck. Now, the inserts only come in 10mm x 1.5 thread. (Without ridiculous cost and effort). So, I ordered a matching hex head, but with that pitch. And marked it with paint. And I really thought about doing the others, but it got hotter still.




And another trip to the restroom, and I find it's hit 100*. Wonderful. So, let's get those bushings on, and wrap this up.






All done. Quick inspection of the old ones - not too bad, not brittle, still flexible...and into the trash.



But Wait! There's More! And it will be next week!

 

Went through your entire "process", great work and write up! Keep on going to I can admire some more of your work!

 

Thank you sir!

 

Phase 50 - FIFTY?! The Ride I Was Waiting For! or Mostly The Ride I was Waiting For!

One might recall, that I got my King Resi's up front last December, and managed to get the rear smoothies on in January. And the truck rode like a Conestoga wagon. Harsh. 700 lb. up front was just way too much for LBR. Given that I had that heavy DV8 front, and winch. Go large....
That recommendation was too much, and off I went looking for some 650 lb, because "you don't want less than that; you will have to crank the heck out of them!". Well, friends of the Triple C didn't have any lying around, but I collected some interesting comments. "Reminds me of those 550's I had". 550?

During my search, I stumbled on this at AccuTune Offroad. And my light bulb went on!



"Stock" - in this world - means 4WD. The market is NOT geared around PreRunners like me. And I know that King at one time had a 600 lb stock rating, until custom ordering (in this long lead time world) took over. And I researched my weights best I could, and came up with a maximum 240 lb over PreRunner stock. Which means, not even the first bump. So, could I find 600 lb? How about YES, at AccuTune, original take-offs, in the factory box the 700 lb replacements came in! Why yes, Eibach does make them all. And at $25 each (see how much no one wants them?), and shipping, they are mine. If I guess wrong, I will buy some 650.





And in my Triple C conversations, I hooked up with @Mynameisbrandin at 4LoFab in New Braunfels, who can do the work, and thinks that's probably the good choice for me. So, I make a quick measure of where I was (~23 1/2" - ~2.5" lift), and off we go, and up we go!





So, things get removed to pull the strut assemblies, and into the spring tool they go. This is a nice one, I must say. Nice clamps that cradle the springs, so nothing gets nicked. And simple to line up and adjust. So, the swap from 700 to 600 is pretty painless.








And, back on the new assembly goes. Brandin added 2 turns from how they came to me, and that was a pretty good adjustment.





So, on to the other side. Either a half turn more or less than driver to compensate for lean (I forget).







So, wheels on, a quick wheel around the lot over some bumps - and OH SO FREAKING HAPPY! Departing my new favorite place with a LIFT! And with the front whipped into shape, the rear learns to quickly follow. 2 1/2" of add-a-leaf back there don't offer adjustment, but now they are happy. Quick measure at home shows about ~1/2" less lift - which is fine. And then to Firestone for another lifetime align.







OK, I have since learned that <3* caster is too much, as I was getting some minor rubs turning sharp. Removed my mudflaps for now, and trimmed tiny pieces of the bottom inner corner. And, on the next trip down there, Brandin gave me two more turns, so, about back where I started in terms of lift, but with a MUCH improved ride!!! I'll have them adjust less camber when I go back again - it's OK for now.

And I have some 700 lb springs for sale!






But WAIT, there's more! And more. And more......

 

Phase 51 - Is Thatta U-Joint? No, That's Anotta My Joint.

I've been carrying these around in my Dekked since last December. When we did my rear Add-a-Leaf's last fall, @SCOTT'S TACO LOCO thought my non greasable U-Joints looked old and weary. They don't show in records, so I got some. Originally, we thought he could do them on his lift on a December mod day. But none of the "mod me" guys showed up, so we all tackled my front suspension instead. So, when I got my 600 lb springs on, I asked @Mynameisbrandin at 4Lo if he wanted to have that fun. And the carrier bearing. And, as long as it's up in the air - my now 2 year old front skid plate!

So, another appointment, and in the air we go! And it's not 15 minutes in that I KNOW I didn't want to do this in a driveway.








And this chore goes on a good while. Press. Fit. Mess with bearings. Repeat. It's a lot more than I anticipated, but Brandin is not slow in the least.






Oh, there's more! But, on to the carrier bearing!







And back on we go!






And there we go! Lifetime greased and everything. And the skid - with all the "hardware" that wasn't needed at all - goes in place. Felt like breaking a beer bottle over it to christen the ship!








And, we checked the passenger inner tie rod Firestone said needed attention. So, they were right. I'll order some Rock Auto parts again, and I'll be back! And two rounds down please, gave me back that 1/2", and virtually eliminated the rub.





"I'll be back" Brandin! Because - but WAIT; there's more!

 

Phase 52 - Tie Up Those Loose Ends - or - Rock Solid Warranty

OK, Firestone was right. Inner passenger had about 1/4" or so play. I figured I would just replace them all, since they are only about 25K old, and not that abused. Could just be that one part from the abuse of the suspension itself. I discover that Rock Auto still warrants ALL those parts I bought last time, if they are bad. So, I can get a few bucks back. Let's do it. Because under the truck. Because lift!




Off we go.









Same deal on the passenger side. Yes, inner was bad. So, two good outer and two boots for Brandin as field spares, and one fine outer that no one would want get trashed (unique to PreRunner). In and out a few times to line it all up, and all is good. And Rock Auto paid off in one day after they got the bad one back.






Golden. I asked if he'd like to do "just one more" project that needs a lift (for me, anyway), and yes. And I have the stuff, and an appointment Friday. Because WAIT, there's MORE! And I've been waiting for this one for years!

 

Looking good @Oldie2007

 

I remember when I tried to do my carrier bearing & u-joints...couldn't even break the bolts on the yoke with a torch & breaker bar

 

Yikes! It might have helped that back in December, I got under there three days in a row, and used up a can of NutBuster (or whatever it'scalled) penetrant on everything. But, that was almost 6 months ago!
All that fun I documented Brandin having is exactly why I don't do SOME things! I'm too old for that shit!

 

Phase 53; "It Spoke to Me!" It Said, You Love this Sound!" And I did....

Another thing I waited a long time for. Like about 15 years or so, since I first heard a TRD with a Borla exhaust pull out of the showroom at San Marcos Toyota - where I used to buy Toyotas. I was sitting in the waiting room, when they pulled it out for make ready, and I got off my butt to chase that sound down! I've wanted it that long.

So, after my last visit, I said I'd be get back to @Mynameisbrandin when I had an order on the way, and schedule when delivered. The best price I found (for a day) was on Amazon, which disappeared because it wasn't real most likely. So, I went here, Borla Tacoma Stinger S-Type Single Exhaust System w/ Polished Tip - Side Exit TT6072 (05-12 4.0L Tacoma) (extremeterrain.com). Best price, and really knockout customer service on chat, and delivery like was ridiculous quick! No, I didn't truck it anywhere, Taco is the unpacking station! I love these guys for the hardware tape - ask me for my story if you like.






Box was the foundation of the last cardboard recycling run!



So, last Friday AM, I am loaded and off early. So I can get a breakfast taco to eat in the lot while I cool things off!



And we go up, again!






OK, so that is what was under there. And my process photos of removal were not good, or didn't even "click". Oh well. Brandin took it out, and I put some ceramic, high heat spray "clean" on the Y pipes and header drops.







So, I also got this spiffy tool for Brandin. And none of the in use removal pix turned out. But it's a gem, and I left hit with him!

$25 Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers

Amazon.com: Lisle 38350 Exhaust Hanger Removal Pliers : Automotive




So, on with the new. Back pipe, hang the muffler, fit the S pipe, clamp it, fit the back, adjust and clamp it!









That's it. Once over and check everything...and down we come.







So, that's it. I had videos that were not good. And it's so quiet, it wasn't louder that shop noise! I did one at home, and my son had the finger over the lens! The phone doesn't do it justice anyway.

So, NOT loud. Can feel it in the cab more than hear it, but absolutely no drone. Only makes itself known between 2300 and 3200 if I have my foot in it. Granny off the line? Just the subtle rumble. Quicker off the line, you can hear it right about when the (double wrapped) K&N pipe starts singing, and it quiets down before the intake does. MPG? We'll see, but first highway tank was up 1mpg. Torque? Little Big Red is heavy now! Who knows. I didn't get it to go racing!

Thanks again, @Mynameisbrandin ! Out of things underneath for now. And I don't know when it will be, but WAIT, there's more!

 

Lookin good Kurt! You've been busy since i last stopped by

 

Phase 54; WTF? Water Pump and Serp Belt Implode at HEB - or - What Fly-In?

Rudely interrupting Phase 54 in process, for absolutely no good reason, I went to HEB on a Saturday morning around the end of September, got my stuff, and truck went to crap! Would not start and run, smoke coming from under hood, horrible noises, you name it. Open it up, and I can't see anything. Smoke is undetermined. Keep messing and even have to get the jump box. Rip the K&N filter cover off for more air, and it fires horrible. But it's running, and no PS, dash Electrical warning, and temp gauge heading for full, I get it out of the lot and head home. I make it with no worse than that, but these motors don't like those kinds of temps, so my fingers are crossed. But, I'm not happy. No air show, and I got college football to watch.

Sunday, I've looked stuff up. Got to get to the belt for sure, then to the water pump. This would be best if I can pull off the darn skid plate that just went on, but the back 2 bolts refuse to claim a size, so, I have to work from the top. Great. Pull the shroud, and remove the clutch fan they say. Sure. My clutch fan that Covid AC boy put on is NOT coming off. SUMB.... loosen shroud, pull the fan from the clutch, get shroud out of the way...




Well, that sucker is a mess




I bought a new belt, but I still need to get the damn clutch thing out of the way. Protect the radiator, and get after it...





Sheesh. Water pump feels like a pepper grinder with several stuck corns. Order a new one from AutoZone (with a new fan clutch - remember that), and spend the interim pulling stuff off and marking it.




I debate ordering new idlers, as these seem just fine, but eventually DO IT>
Time of other stuff, and some basic clean up






Alright! New stuff is here. Picked up a thermostat too. Cleaned stuff up and put it together.









Yes, I put those O-Ring replacements on - remember that too!





New idlers and pulley went on





Finally, the belt will (carefully) go back on!




Well, let's bolt on that new fan clutch, and fire it up. Hook everything back up, & see how it goes. Oh yeah, clean the air filter. Run full heat and full AC for long time....






Life should be good! End of Phase - right? Drove to Austin (Pflugerville) Pistons in the Park next day. Drove around town all week. Drove to San Antonio Cars & Coffee following Sunday. No, I don't have that kind of luck.

Monday, there is a puddle of coolant under the truck. The reservoir is empty. Number ONE cause is a bubble. I filled it old school, so I bought a funnel kit, and might as well add a radiator cap.



That cure last a day. I smell coolant everytime I park. Heat gauge is now swinging wildly. Head unit says I'm going from 190 to 230.
I find what seems to be spray out of the spongy lower rad hose hitting the alternator, so damnit, drain some more and replace the hoses.
My custom fit top hose had to be cut to fit. Figures.





So, new hoses, new Tstat, new pump, new pulleys, new belt - should be good? No freaking way. FML.
It's dripping constantly now, out the back bottom of the skid plate! What? Heater hoses too? Did the head gasket die, and it's just not telling me? (no white smoke, clean oil, etc...) I crawl underneath. Why is it dripping from the bottom of the oil pan? It tracks to the front. The alternator is wet again, and everything around it. Not from that lower hose. I sprayed everything off with the hose, and let it dry for a day.
I pull the shroud, and the fan. And I run it like that. OK, now I see a drip coming from the larger hose on the thermostat housing. I can see it drip to the serp belt. The fan blows it around. I wipe the hose - the drip is NOT from the hose, but the connection (or something) behind the thermostat cover!! Thermostat cover has to come off again.



I go buy some more coolant, as it has to drain again. This time I salvage most of it. Use coffee filters. Stupid son of a bitch. It's the O-Ring REPLACEMENT that came with the kit. It is torqued, twisted, and ripped up. Told you to remember that.




I still had the old one, because I'm just that way. Lubed the crap out of it, and gently put it on. Could I have cut up the new one> Maybe . I don't think so. A week after saving the old one, I started untwisting it. Over a dozen twists. I think it was just too small, and kept twisting under pressure until it started coming apart. I dunno. No way to measure old vs. new, and who measures a replacement in a kit against what?

So, everything goes back together, again. Except for the fan clutch. (told you to remember that, too). New one is so loud, truck sounds like a diesel. Might work, but I don't trust it at all. Ream out the holes in the old one (2021), and put that one. AutoZone online isn't cooperative , and I have to take it to the store. They don't have one. Ordering one is "hard". Fine. Refund the card.

It's worked a few weeks now. The smell is going away. The gauges are rock solid (I check a LOT!). And I guess that ends this Phase. No reruns please.

But wait, there's more. Because I finished most of the more before this crap!

 

Phase 55; Fall Botox Treatment - or - How DARE That Water Pump Interrupt Me!

OK, everything still works, and I'm gonna do this one - finally. Seemed simple enough. IN GENERAL, I was not happy with the focus on the Depo replacement headlights I just got. Mostly, because I am old, not that they weren't "good enough". The official Crash&Burn headlight thread convinced me NOT to buy the projectors I was considering (Gee, they are great on the RAV!) - the best thing for the Taco is OEM and Ultimate Headlight - and I have the Ultimate wiring in place.

So, I found some CAPA "TRD Sport" tinted on line - at WalMart of all places. LKQ parts. But that means no more "blackout" headlight surround, so the grille and rock deflector are going to look stupid. AND my white cutoff fogs are condensating badly, so I got them replaced. AND, my engine cover looks like crap, and the insulation has fallen off. AND....

So, BOTOX!







So, here we go - tearing the front end apart again!






SO, is there a difference in the reflectors? YES, and this is the best shot. It's small - reflector bends and bend count. Is it huge? Experience says not a lot, but better. DEPO gets a lot of knocks, but it's not off much.




I took more closeups, but on with the show. (@Dan 77 has all FOUR of my DEPO, I think he will like them)
Headlight swap....






Let's get the fogs done - I have them connected as DRL with my in grille LED. These have matching plugs, and the mounts are already there.




All good. Now, for a true BOTOX experience. I am dam tired of "Back to Black" or whatever variation dripping down the side of the doors, after I treat the handles, and go through the car wash. Well guess what? For a WHOPPING $16.14 (+postage), I found these!
For 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma / 2003-2009 4Runner Gloss Black Door Handle Covers | eBay
(These have lock holes for both sides - be careful if you decide to do pick one)
How the heck can I go wrong? If they fall off, so what. And they haven't.









Are you KIDDING me? What a deal. Gotta love Botox!
On to the painting stuff....







Then, there is a bunch of in-process of the stuff looking better, and AMAZINGLY, I'm gonna skip it. Send beer, must be a health issue.






And you can't even see it, and I don't have another photo, but HOLY 1980's, there is a clear rock deflector in place. So help me .




And that's the way it is! I'm gonna do the grille again for reasons you can't see.

So, you know what is coming? BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!

EDIT: And I did do the grille again, but it traded one problem for another. But it's more shiny and more red, and now the hood really likes the only piece of LBR that hasn't been refinished. 10' truck rule applies, and it'll do until I decide to change something again.

 

Phase 56; It's Flaring Up Again - or - I Think I've Put This Off Long Enough!

OK, I really have put this off, but at the Pflugerville show Sunday, I banged on the loose driver side flare, and it kind of refused to attach..... at all.

Now, I had ordered these a while ago, but just hadn't gotten around to it, even though I knew it was just hanging on.

$13 120Pcs Fender Flare Clips, Xislet Retainer Fastener Rivets for Bumper Fender Liner 90189-06065 Compatible with Toyota 4Runner Tacoma RAV4 Replace 75495-35010 75397-35010 90189-06013

Amazon.com: 120Pcs Fender Flare Clips, Xislet Retainer Fastener Rivets for Bumper Fender Liner 90189-06065 Compatible with Toyota 4Runner Tacoma RAV4 Replace 75495-35010 75397-35010 90189-06013 : Automotive

Now this isn't hard, but @tacomaholic does have a nice YouTube for the details. I watched just to be sure of what I was gonna do. This kit is enough for all 4 flares, and I only have one problem (now). Here we go.




Pulling of the clips was (obviously) no problem. There are 3 10mm lag screws under the wheel arch, and one 10mm bolt at the bottom of the flare. And for me, one broken tab in the middle.



So, it's off, and you can see I have one part of the flare also left on the clips. So, I got at least two mounts to tend to. Inspecting the flare further, I also have one that is sort of crushed, but not broken...


broke


missing


crushed


I washed off the fender and commenced to try to make the flare "healed".

Folded up aluminum reflector material (from work; yes, I still have a few pieces)


Yes, I used that rivet stud under the crushed mount, and epoxied it in place.


And I used the marks on the plastic to epoxy the broken off mount back in place.


So, while all that dries in place, onto the fender clips. I do NOT know what happened to the pic of removing a clip, but except for the ONE Orange clip in the middle, the all turn 90*, then come out of the rectangle slots. The middle Orange one is square, and you have to FUSS it out. Most clips can install easily by hand and twist. The clips themselves all face - ll - along the arch - the clip is on the horizontal ends. All but TWO of my clips were gone. THESE CLIPS ARE ONE TIME USE. I just put them on my TV tray, and did one at a time, matching the color.




So, the epoxy repairs are all dry, and back on the flare will go. Just start at the front, an bang into place, clip by clip. The bolt back in the bottom. I will confess to finding a longer lag screw for my replaced bracket, but once it was in place, I bet I could put the original back in.





Then, I went and banged on all the other flares - driver rear has ONE bad clip, and that can wait! So, all done.

So, BUT WAIT! There's more!

 

Phase 57 - Who Knew a Better Battery Would be SO MUCH Fun - or - You Kiddin' Me?

So much for LAST years resolution to just keep up. Oh well. My Super Duper AutoZone deluxe battery has been a pain since a year old. Randomly just quits, and takes a jump. I bought a little Tender/Charger unit that fixes batteries, and every time I use it, I get six months or so. Maybe. And failure at point B, on the A B C route. 2 minutes apart.... tired of it. Going to change it. Close enough to end of warranty to just do it. Amazed I got it out all by myself....it's taken on some new shapes. What it has is a bad cell, I know that look. I know that behavior. AZ refuses to check it because I have "wires" on it.




So, research tells me with my stereo, etc. I want an AGM for that reserve output. And I will need that "Special Diode" that lets the alternator think the battery needs another 1/2 volt. I can do that. I get a Yellow Top delivered to the Casa.




Now you think - so simple - that's the end. Are you kidding? I am going to make IMPROVEMENTS. Right here, in this wiring....



That's the stereo fuse area. And IN THAT VERY SPACE, a Time Delay Relay, AND a Starter style relay are going to be installed. The TDR will connect to the AUX 12V when I turn the truck on, and the starter relay will interrupt the stereo Amp fuse for 10 seconds. Which is how long it takes for the head unit to boot anyway. SO, no amp power until truck is running, reducing starter load. Here's the little time bomb....




And it works. Beautifully. ONCE. Then I get no stereo.....
What I find is that..... the Covid AC repair guy added ONE MORE wire to his work. He had cut all the tie wraps off this wire that went underneath, and up into the cab. It then SAT on the catalytic. It never shorted because the wires burned off over time.... And my disturbing the wire was its last straw.



I have exactly enough of that fancy wire to be an estimated foot short, no matter the route. But I am going through the firewall this time. So, I have no tunes for a few days while the wire comes. Didn't make many trips anyway. So, the famous Flux Cap has to be redone. Remove the seat, and here we go.



And all better, right? Are you kidding me?



Why can't I tighten down the battery to fuse connections? It's stripped. Fin.........I have a spare. OK. Now, the one on the OTHER side of the terminal is stripped!!!! Are you kidding me? Shake, roll, come on Amazon... I get these suckers, and redo ALL the connections.



NOW, I should be all done, except for the spiffy diode that I have been waiting for.



So, before I put this sucker in. Raw new Batt volts. Battery running Volts. Volts in the system

.



OK, I have it installed in the ALT SENS fuse location. Shoud be about +~0.7 V from baseline.




Are you kidding me? Supposed to be higher - NOT lower..... Alright, it's a freaking diode, turn it around.





So, we find MY truck is backward. Solved, but the diode won't let me close the fuse block. Guy on EBay I got the diode from has "only seen this once, on a 2007". So, he will send me a replacement (if I return his), and LBR will be FAMOUS in EBay ads for this stupid simple Mod.




And fame being fleeting.... All the pics and special notes are gone in EBay, as he ended the listing. I posted some of them in TW threads, but that's life.

New message from: parallaxtactical (1,066)
Thanks! I appreciate the photos and your diagnostic to figure this one out. Not sure why they are different than 4runners (same chassis)
Reply


Your previous message

Hey, thanks again! New part came late yesterday, I put a mark on it, and put it in this morning. ,The diode sticks inside, Volts are right up there, and look! The fuse cover is back on!
The original will go down to the Post Office tomorrow, and off to you.
Regards,
Kurt

parallaxtactical:
Thanks for the photos may I use them in my listing?



Your previous message

FYI - with the truck OFF, and the ALT-S fuse removed, the inside leg of the fuse block will read the battery voltage, and the outside leg "0".
I would say that normally, it would be the other way around. Could be a quick verification for lucky people like me!

And so, what would be a ONE day event for most people, occupied the time before Christmas until my birthday in January. Because, WAIT, there's more!

 

Phase 58 - Need That Fan Base - OR - Blowhard!

OK, HAVC fan had gone intermittent. Internet search says clean the cabin filter is number one reason! REALLY? OK, I dropped a leaf seed and two bugs. Gave it a spin, and there we go. It had quit once during the battery escapade (last Phase), but had repeated a few times since. I have ordered up a new Rock Auto blower, and Heater Resistor. Because if you have a culprit, it's one of those. I might even finally change that blend actuator I bought a year ago (the threat of which kept the old one working all this time). Let's see what this is like under there, and do it once.





OK, it's dark, but there are the screws. New stuff is ready....





Old blower out without issue, and doesn't really look that bad. But, new one is nicer, and in it will go! After the resistor, because it might be in the way....



So, blower resistor connector and the result...






Yeah, Ima gonna use the new thin film version, even though I had all the speeds. Old one was 1/10 from all used up. And that connector? I got the resistor with a new connector, and replaced it. That was the biggest PITA of all this, other than rug burns on my elbow.






And the blend door? "This fits your 2007 Tacoma" does not fit the one I have...



So, THAT part number is best price of $97.50. I wiped it off, threw some lube into that gear, and called it good. It's going to have to fail more than once in a while to order that one. So, what's it look like with new stuff installed? Black.



But it all works, so that is a WIN! So, there's that. BUT WAIT! There's More!

 

How’s the aftermarket carpet holding up?

I hate the grey carpet in my truck and want to replace it

 

Some of the best monies I have spent on LBR! I got the "mass backed" version, and that kind of makes some of the molded fit a little harder, but it is DAMN quiet. If you don't mind doing your own sound insulation, get the regular and you will be happy. It's thick, luxe, and quiet in there! Be slow, and patient, and it's an easy install. I've never done it before that.

05-15 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Carpet 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 (stockinteriors.com)