TORSPD: NEVR

Tor,

Sir please excuse me for being stupid! You boxed in the stock bumper brackets to give them added strength. But yet you have a receiver hitch!? Why box in the OEM bumper brackets? For something to do? Add weight pass the rear bumper? Sorry but did I miss something? Also what’s with the mount you Tig welded above the rear differential?

 

Looking good

 

Best answer: Because I could and I was in there.
Actual answer: Because I don't have a better bumper than the OEM one, and my OEM one has been hit twice. Right on those. Small hits but hit none the less. This just gives them little strength until the time comes that I get a stronger bumper. Or make one.

After taking a closer look at the receiver hitch, there are areas that could use gussets for lateral strength as well. That can be done now, or after the bed is back on, but with the bumper alone off.

The DMZ kit, didn't have those trapezoidal plates. So I made them. In the picture below, they are the areas in primer.

 

Sorry I had No Idea!
I really need to come to TX to get you or Robert to build me an exhaust system! Getting thisinto an art form…

 

Honestly, the truck was built with lots of areas that someone like me can fiddle with and get tons of practice welding and using the creative mind. I love the challenge and the reward.

I've modified and built quite a few exhausts now. Fun, and easy.

 

tube bumper with bolt-on aluminum or carbon diffuser and strakes

 

Hmmm.

 

God us‼️

 

Strength and Aero. Why not?

 

Got to inspect the parts that I painted yesterday with this Seymour paint. Blew me away. Felt like a powder coating. Scroll down to read more.

$15 Seymour 20-1643 Big Rig Professional Coatings Spray Paint, Equipment Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-20-1...-Equipment/dp/B0088LVA1G?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

 

Guess I am disappointed in this pic. By now I expected a tube frame and a 4-link.....

 

You know, had I a shop, that may have been easier just starting from scratch. Lol.

You guys still have meets down there?

 

Nah, it's gotten very quiet. Ain't no leaders to take control down here in southlands.

 

Shame.

 

Been having this project on the back of my mind for years. Was just waiting for the tight time to do it. Got a hose for the return line to be done as well, on the way. Super easy to accomplish. All -6AN.

Used a Dremel, and a step drill bit, up to 9/16".

 

Never had a problem with "weld thru" primer used on big weldments we field fitted on construction jobs. Maybe the welding department guys had something you can't buy in a spray can. It was silver - looked like aluminum paint. Surfaces were sand blasted steel plates they finished with a sanding disc. One thing I did on some repairs I did on little excavators we repaired in the field - used exhaust header paint in blind spots that were going to be covered forever. Also followed up by squirting mil-spec cosmoline up in the odd enclosed space.

 

I also found that the Seymour 316 Stainless paint, was weldable, with the flux core. I like that paint a lot as well.

Basically it comes down to knowing and implementing the right tool for the job.

 

Looking back, it took almost a month, working around my schedule, to complete the rear frame boxing portion.

A newer and healthier frame, would have been a much easier task. However, also did a lot of small things while in there. Glad to be driving again.

Cannot really tell a difference, since I only drive on the street, and have only driven a little as of today. Pics to follow.

 

Fuel tank in, and -6AN fuel feed line made, and attached to the fuel filter base. Plenty of room between the bed and the fitting. I wanted to do the return line as well, but the part needed did not arrive in time for the time frame I was working with. Future project. Super simple.



These corners were cracking. Left and right. Ordered some aluminum bronze filler @ 1/16" to braze it in. However, I chose aluminum bronze to be able to use it on A/C TIG. Did some testing recently and learned that the A/C TIG on galvanized coated steels, does not cause the dreaded jumping of material to the electrode. On DC it definitely will, and will also ruin a gas lense.

The machine was set to 47 amps, but I was using a little less. That steel right there is ~16 gauge.





All back together. I also noticed some spots under the frame that I still need to touch up with more paint. That will be soon, but this project feels good to be completed.