Rear Axle Assembly Transplant Question

Tried searching the forum for these specific questions so if I missed something kindly flame me and I will delete this post in shame and go back into hiding.

My unlocked rear-diff exploded in my 2014 SR5 4wd with auto LSD. I am on the quest for an entire rear axle assembly with an e-locker to swap and am researching all the juicy details before I fork over what looks to be 1500 to 2g's for the assembly.

Here are the things I need to know:

1. Will a locked pre-runner rear axle assembly be the same, providing the gear ratio (3.73) is the same?

2. Do I have to find one that came out of a truck with auto-LSD. It is to my understanding the auto LSD uses the brakes to regulate wheel slippage, but I would assume there is a sensor involved somewhere and perhaps some other voodoo at hand since the fluid for auto-LSD rear ends has to have the special LSD sauce. If I am upgrading to a locked rear diff, I could care less about this feature honestly. I just don't want to end up with a boat anchor by purchasing something that won't work, or explode something else in the truck to fix as the summer days keep on a rolling by.

Thanks in advance for any constructive input / insights.

 

I believe the ones with and without a locker will interchange if you change the entire axle but if you get one with a locker you will have to either make your own control setup or get the wiring harneses, (I'm not sure if the 4wd ECU is the same or not), and switch from a truck with a factory locker in order to make it work.

09+ trucks don't have an actual limited slip diff, they have Auto LSD which uses the ABS to simulate a limited slip diff by applying the brake on the spinning wheel when the VSC/Trac Off button is pressed one time. Otherwise it is essentially just a standard open differential, no special additive required.
TRD Offroad trucks have an electronic locker in addition to the Auto LSD system.

 

Get the same diff you already have.
Junkyards quote ripoff price $600 all day. Not sure why you would pay $2k

 

This is the PN for the 4wd ECU with elocker

 

Somewhere out there, there is a diagram of how to make the E-locker work on a non-E-locker truck.
I can’t find it, but even if you do. You need to build the harnesses yourself or salvage one.

Another option is this stand alone unit. @6 gearT444E have you seen this or have an opinion on it?
https://lowrangeoffroad.com/ultimate-toyota-e-locker-wiring-harness-kit-by-low-range-off-road.html

 

There are plenty of stand alone units available. Google search is your friend there

https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-e-locker-wiring-harness/

https://www.marlincrawler.com/air-electronics/wiring-harness/electric-locker-wiring-harness

You can make your own with the Toyota pigtail connector and a DPDT switch/relay.
Actuator connector PN: 90980–11194

Pigtail:
https://www.autoecupart.net/product...EH9zS9p1USQQEz-5bZ2rs0Os5d7MFSmxoC9SgQAvD_BwE

Indicator switch connector PN: 90980–11250

Pigtail:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/p...jfZJD99YrK_VzrCgl8ciB1wSf1_Y6_xRoCoY4QAvD_BwE

 

Thanks bud. I knew you’d be more familiar with the options.

 

You know me, I'm a fan of DIY. But sometimes a kit is nice to be able to plug and play. For $236 though, that buys alot of extra wire and connectors for other projects.