2016 clutch bleed.

Apologies if there is a thread , I was unable to find it....

Is the slave cylinder the only place to bleed the clutch?


I have a weird thud/ clunk sound from time to time when using the clutch.

I'm wondering if there is a little air in the line.

 

Have you deleted your clutch accumulator valve yet?

Just about guarantee your clunk is from bad engagement due to it hanging up.

 

Yes.

How would I fix this?

 

Find the third gen thread for "Clutch Accumulator Delete" basically it's unbolt the stupid thing from the transmission and install a braided clutch line in it's place.

2nd gens had them too and it makes a night and day difference.

They work *okey-meh* new but quickly wear and get dirty and start to hang up which causes mushy pedal feel and bad engagements that can be annoying as you describe to downright dangerous as well as it accelerates disk wear.

 

I have done the acculmator delete already

 

Excellent.

The bleed nipple on the slave is the only place. You can do a gravity bleed where you open it and let most of the reservoir drain through. That should push any bubbles through the entire system. Obviously keep a very close eye on the reservoir.

 

Oh okay, in that case I'd check your center support bearing on the drive shaft that's another typical suspect for take off clunk.

 

Ok. I'll bleed it out and see if that solves it. Thank you.

 

Um, ok... What am I looking for? Kinda a noob, but love to learn about my truck...

Sorry, and thank you

 

Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder, Light Duty One Person, Fits all makes and models

$56 Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder, Light Duty One Person, Fits all makes and models

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRV800S

I reverse bled my clutch and had good luck with this

 

The bearing in the middle of your driveshaft, grab the shaft on either side and wiggle up and down if it deflects more than just a little bit or you can see it's not sitting centered in it's rubber doughnut or the doughnut is starting to crack it's toasted and needs replacement.

When they're really bad the shaft can torque to the side underpower and thunk against the carrier bearing housing.

 

You're welcome!

 

Awesome, thank you..I will check it when I get off work

 

Assuming the bleeding works, and that.bearing is in ok shapez what other possible issue could.cause a chlunk from the.to time when shifting?

Iv noticed it's worse when warm. In the mornings,it does not seem as bad...

 

The only clunks that I know of are when you disengage the clutch under load and go over a speed bump. The driveline lash can cause a clank. One way to help with that is to line the heat shield over the accumulator / slave with sound insulation, like Noico. There was a TSB for that (attached).

 

I'm not getting any thing like that... It's more noticeable in the feel.of the clutch pedal...

I'll address the ideas mentioned above first and see what happens

 

That could be a pedal pivot or master cylinder. Hopefully nothing down below.

 

If there was a small amount of air in the line, would it cause the clutch pedal to stick b at all? Mine feels pretty firm or normal.

 

No. Air just makes it feel softer and causes the engagement point to move closer to the firewall.

 

The 6mt is noisy. With the windows open I can hear a faint clang on every shift at low speed. It’s always been that way and I suspect it is normal. I’ve come to be fond of it.

I don’t see how air in the hydraulic system could be the cause of a such s noise. Typically air in the hydraulic system causes the pedal to be squishy/springy because air is compressible unlike hydraulic fluid.