DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

Got them on Amazon:

$102 US Cargo Control Black L Track (4-Pack), 12" Black Anodized Aluminum L-Track Trailer Tie Down Rail for Enclosed Trailers, Utility Trailers, or Truck Beds, Secure Motorcycles, ATVs, and Bikes

Amazon.com: US Cargo Control Black L Track – 12 Inch Length – Perfect for Securing Motorcycles, ATVs, Dirt Bikes, Garden Tractors, and More – Use On Pickup Trucks, Vans, Or Enclosed Trailers - 4 Pack : Automotive

 

I ran across this site, seems like a good value, not sure of quality comparison
https://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/interior-van/l-track-systems/heavy-duty-l-track


Thanks for posting the link!

 

Please post pics and review if you end up getting these, it's something I would be interested in as well.

 

Finally got the cover installed, really like the smooth finish with the blue.

 

Hey All,

Please check out my newly posted free tent platform if you're interested!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/free-diamondback-tent-platform.774517/

 

Hi, new member here. This thread is tremendously useful and help me to decide on the DB cover + front runner rack. Thanks!

I have a question. We know the cover is not square. The front is 60" edge to edge (top) and the back is about 58". For those who have this setup do you try to make the two tracks parallel or run them along the edge equal distance? What are the pro and cons? I think most picture I have seem run them parallel. This looks nice. Otherwise there will be a 1" difference between the front and back.

 

It can be either, but parallel makes more sense so you don't have to adjust the width of any rails that go across the bed and use both tracks. If I need to slide the rail forward or back, I only need to mess with 4 bolts rather than 8.

 

I actually kept my Front Runner tracks an equal distance from the edges of the cover, instead of running them perfectly parallel to one another. I did this for ease of installation, because I was able to use the width of some masking tape butted up nice and straight to the edge of the cover, to determine where to drill my holes.

I didn't really think about how this would impact the adjustment of the crossbars, but then again, my crossbars are only installed when I'm mounting my RTT, which is not very often. In reality, it's just a small extra step to loosen the bolts on the bottom of the crossbars before putting everything into position, and then I just tighten those bolts back up at the same time that I'm tightening the bolts that attach the RTT to the crossbars (a battery powered ratchet makes quick work of this and saves the arms!).

I wouldn't really call it an extra hassle unless you need to move the crossbars often, which is already kind of a PITA anyways. You already have to detach the crossbars bar from the brackets before you can loosen the brackets and slide them on the track. This is because the bolts that hold the bracket to the track are blocked by the hardware that attaches the crossbar to the bracket. The bracket also has some play within the track before it's tightened down - it can easily slide about a half inch either direction, so unless you've got a perfect eye for lining everything up, you might still need to loosen those bolts on the underside of the crossbars in order to square everything back up after adjusting them.

Here are some photos of my install: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...uild-and-adventure-page.699778/#post-24781475

 

@orion808 @JFanaselle thanks a lot for the info. I am gonna run the tracks parallel to the edges. 1" out of 60" is not much and I certainly don't mind the extra minutes it takes to move the crossbars.

 

Saw it here as well but put some l track down.
Too cheap to buy front runner and needed a way to carrier the bikes

Happy that as long as the rear isn't tied for when in transit can still open both sides as the rear just moves along the cover.


Each hole for the mounting hardware was sealed with rtv to keep it water tight.


Only downside little bit too much weight doesn't stay fully open. Going to look into getting the stronger strut from Diamondback

 

@orion808 I remember reading you shimmed the cover because the cover under an RTT will compress the rubber seal too much to the point of not being able to open the tailgate. I could not find the thread anymore. I think that's what I need to do also. Could you share some pictures and how you attach the aluminum bars to the cover. Much appreciated.

 

Front runner rack installed. Love how it turned out.

 

So far so good with the Roofnest Condor Overland on the custom FRO Slimline II bedrack mounted to the DB HD cover. The Condor Overland is about 165lbs and the previous rtt setup was with the Tepui Ayer II that was about 94lbs. Current rtt setup still feels solid on the Diamondback cover. The Tepui was on the Diamondback/FRO setup for about 3.5yrs (July 2018 to around December 2021) with no major accidents or issues. The Roofnest has been on there for about 8.5mos with no major accidents or issues. Because the Condor Overland is heavier and shorter than the Ayer II, I added two more extra tent mount brackets (6total) to hold the extra weight better and was able to switch out to the taller approximately 8” tall legs (from the 6” tall legs) for the bedrack.
A night of solo camping in the desert on the way from Cali to Utah to join our church’s EDGE Ministry annual camping trip.

 

I got a mod question/request, anyone do anything to make the cover easier to take on/off? I love/need the platform/security/features the diamondback has but the truck is also our main vehicle for travel and house work. Dump runs, yard related stuff (mowers, other odd shaped items), etc mean taking the cover off. Any tips on making reconfiguring it faster and easier would be great.

 

For a stock setup DB cover, if you want the whole thing off, it should be as simple as removing the four clamps holding it onto the bed. You’re just going to want help taking it down from the bed to the ground. Or, get a shelf platform, maybe a big enough cart or two carts, that you can just slide the DB cover onto from the truck bed. If you have some place to put a hoist, or a strong beam with a couple of straps that can hold the weight, you can also try having the DB cover suspended in storage while you drive off with the truck. Just gotta secure the cover panels from folding up.

 

A little more detail to Battlecry's post. Release the gas struts on the rear cover-move the silver clips to the perpendicular position. Lift the rear cover to 90 degrees-slide rear cover to passenger side. Release gas struts for front and remove the safety bar (a tab keeps safety bar in place). Raise the front cover to 90 degrees-slide to passenger side.
90% of your bed is now available. Remove the 4 bolts that secure the middle.(mark your bed with a permanent marker for re install) --really shouldn't take more than 10 min.

Or release the gas struts on rear cover and fold it flat to rest on the front cover. Struts stay attached to the middle.

 

This ProEagle jack comes in handy for adjusting/aligning the DB cover with extra weight from accessories added to it on your own, solo.

Caution: Do this at your own risk. Use a broader piece of wood (or thick enough metal plate - or maybe a recovery board?) on the extension as a “base” to avoid any warping of the DB cover. Don’t ask me how I know. Maybe, 3’ W x 3’ L and about 1” Thk, at least, is good? Just doing my own R&D, trial & error mods / hacks, here with the setup I’m using. Lol. Oh, yeah, and if you haven’t noticed yet, this was done on the HD cover with the extra cross beam supports. Not sure how this would turn out on the SE, 270 or 180.

After unlatching the clamps and lifting the DB HD overlanding setup a fraction of an inch off of the bed, it was super easy to go corner to corner and align / adjust the cover onto the bed. Shove here, pull there, repeat, and lower when you’re satisfied. You can use a tape measure, but eye balling measurements were good enough for me.

Pics taken while in the middle of making adjustments.

 

Yes, thanks for adding all that. I meant to mention there were partial removal options, but forgot to add since I was planning to post something else (the Pro Eagle hack post above).

 

Pretty disappointed in strength.
Cross bin not even 3 months old yet. Already breaking at the welds. And there's not actually that much weight in it. Jug of washer fluid some recovery gear few pairs of gloves and tie down straps and then just mountain bike stuff (helmet shoes hydration pack multi tool etc not in picture)

Realistically maybe 80lbs in it.

Going to email them to see what they say.
As long as the rest of the cover doesn't have this issue.

Easy fix otherwise. Probably do aluminum angle and rivets.

 

Send the pics and serial #. Diamondback stands behind their product. Look at the outlet area on Diamondback- there is documentation of poor welds.