THEFT PREVENTION CATALYTIC CONVERTER

That sounds like a plan.
I also put anti seize on the bolts when I installed it, figured that between the heat and road slop if I needed to remove it that’d definitely make things easier.
Anyone have the correct size for those bolts, I think the torx replacements is a good idea.

 

The bolts for the Talons shield are M8x50mm, 1.25 thread pitch. I got the stainless steel security bolts Talons was offering - they are not Torx, but rather Bryce Penta-Plus pinned pentagonal sockets. I hope I don't lose the bit that came with them! I use nickel anti-sieze and torque to 120 inch pounds. Regarding access to the front zerk on the forward driveshaft, you can do it, but you can't do it right, at least I couldn't. I tried an extension with an angle at the end without attaching it to the gun just to see if it would work, and was able to get it locked onto the zerk, but it wasn't really long enough to use with my gun. Also the angle was such that you could not pull the coupler straight off. I had a hell of a time getting it off, and pulling a zerk coupler off the zerk at an angle is how you break zerks (at least that is how I do it). I got it off OK but decided against waiting for a longer extension. Also, although it was sort of possible to clean the end of the zerk with a rag or paper towel at the end of some long needle nose pliers, I don't think it is possible to properly clean it or to clean up the U joint when you're done. So I dropped the shield and did it right.

 

Thanks for the info Steve.

 

It wouldn't be a bad idea, kind of depends on where you live. Protection for Cats isn't cheap

 

Newb here, what is this grease fitting? I also have 2021 offroad and just installed Talons and was only aware of the trans oil also. Is sport and lower differen?

 

we are talking about front driveshaft (called propeller in service manual) universal zerk grease fittings.
some 3rd gen have it and some not. way too complicated to figure out - best go under with flashlight and examine
universals on the shaft. it rotates easily by hand if you are parked in 2WD mode.
while you are there - check your main propeller as i see the service manual also covers zerks on those
universals as well. again, i have no idea which models/years have it or not. good chance your 2021 does not have any but better know for sure.
greasing these zerks is part of the maintenance schedule (assuming you have them) and affects warranty if a failure.
i have 2018 SR5 and have zerks on front shaft but none on rear shaft.
example front propeller (snip from service manual):

 

i saw a video on this. i have not purchased it but it does seem like a good idea. i posted the link to the shield and found a video on the install as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7umjPPs4xJY&t=455s

https://catshield.com/pages/product-result?rq=yr_2019~mk_toyota~md_tacoma~qc_3-5~ip_4x4

 

I chose the Talons over the MillerCAT mainly because of all the rivnuts on the Miller. Over the years, I have had the occasional day ruined when I went to unbolt something only to have a rivnut spin. Removing the shield to lube my front driveshaft or change the gear oil is already enough of a pain without having the extra bonus pain of having to grind off a bolt head because a rivnut is spinning. So I figured the Talons was safer from a removal point of view.

 

Part of why I went with Talon as well. That and the thickness for some skid plate value. I know not steel, but I don't do serious offroading. Easy to Easy moderate trails only.

 

I have dreams of this. Find some kind of chemical or something that when splatters on crooks from cutting the cat out, it burns and causes terrible pain in their testicles. Possible right?

 

I just bought the MillerCAT but it specifically says it does not use rivetnuts and uses the existing threaded holes.
I dont have it yet, but I guess I will see what it comes with.

I went with the millercat as it was the only one I found with Stainless Steel. I worked enough with aluminum and stainless to know their bandsaws wont go through stainless, but they can cut through aluminum like butter. I figured might as well spend the extra for stainless. Now I doubt they would waste their time cutting any plates regardless of material.
Stainless Steel MILLERCAT 2016-2022 Toyota Tacoma 3.5L 2WD Cat Shield™ – MillerCAT Corp
The miller one was $370.50 including shipping.
I have a 2017 Tacoma TRD Sport 2WD.

The only thing I could not find out is is how many Catalytic converters are on the 3rd gen tacoma. I read that there are QTY 4, but I could not find a diagram.
I am hoping these shields block all of them. None of the shield websites explained if it blocked everything or not. It is disappointing that none of the sites had a diagram showing the location of all the cats vs the shield.

 

Millercat's the easiest ever install. It blocks half of the secondary cats, and that's enough for theft deterrence because you need to cut both ends to steal.
One piece of advice is not use their supplied security bolts for the cross bars, just re use the stock bolts. The security bolt will not hold enough torque as the stock ones.
Nobody's going to steal your cat even if you don't use security bolts.

 

The MillerCat does not use rivnuts that have to be installed in your truck, but the top plate that goes over the cross-member at the front, to which you bolt the front of the MillerCat through the holes in the cross-member, does come with rivnuts or nutserts or some kind of threaded fastener pressed into the steel. At least that what it looks like on the video, I haven't seen one in person, so correct me if I'm wrong. You have to unbolt the front of the shield from that top plate to get it off your truck, and if one of those rivnuts/nutserts/whatever you call them spins you are screwed. The 3rd generation Tacomas have four catalytic converters. The two primaries are alongside the engine and inaccessible. The two secondaries are the ones they steal. I'm told that those secondaries don't have much of value for thieves, but thieves apparently don't know that and I don't know whether that is true or not.

 

I just installed a MillerCat stainless steel shield. Use a floor jack with a rag on the bowl to hold the shield in place while starting screws/bolts. Also doing it in bright sun light helped me line up the holes on the front crossmember plate. I don't have ramps so I drove the passenger wheels up on my sidewalk to give me a little more clearance to work. Easy to install and no rattles.

 

I was under my truck a few days ago and noticed the dealer I bought it from circled the ser. # on my cat with a white paint pen and wrote “911” on it. Probably a pretty good theft deterrent making it a lot harder to sell to a junkyard or on FB or whatever as a legit non-stolen part.

 

I just installed my millercat. I did not have to raise up the truck, I was able to slide underneath.
I used a jack to hold the plate up.

It looks like the threads are pressed in or some kind of rivet. I would expect there to be a weld for this price. I would paid even extra for welds.
But the screws that come with this are very crappy for the price. The heads are so easily stripped. One partially stripped just because the bit slipped out while tightening. They should include better screws in the kit. I also put blue loctite on the side panel screws only as I dont see a need to ever remove them.
Overall this should do the job to stop anyone from cutting underneath.

 

the ones with locking washer I just hand tightened them to snug and that's it, with locking washers they won't ever get loose.
I did round the longer screws that are holding the cross bars, there's no way to torque them past 30 pound feet. I'll have to do a bolt extraction when I change the transmission fluid down the road, but for now even the thieves can't get it off.

 

This makes me want to go buy a welder today

 

I have read that some say the miller cat shield rattles. I know you said no rattles so has any developed and why do you think people would have said that? Don't want to spend $300 - $400 and have it rattle!