Rust repair project (and a buch of other stuff)- my build thread?

I'm about to return about $200 worth of tools to Amazon that either I didn't use or didn't work for my application. I'll put that refund money toward the Tundra brake upgrade parts when I do the front suspension.

 

How much effort was it to lift the cab off the frame? Any wiring or tubes to watch out for? I'd like better access to the frame under there when I do the SafeT-Caps, but I'll live with it if it's a PITA.

 

Lifting wasn't all that hard. I slowly jacked it up at each mount point and slid a block of wood under it. Be careful is all I can say, to make sure whatever jack block prop or whatever you use doesn't pop out. The bottom of the cab isn't all flat. First disconnect it all six points from the cab, then lift.

The only issue I had was the steering column limiting how high the middle driver's side could go. But there's one bolt you can loosen under there to let the steering shaft lift out of the bottom part. Sorry I don't have a better description of that. Remove that bolt and the steering shaft won't limit you.

Don't put your hand between the cab and rail until you have a block between them. The hardest part was removing the bolts that hold the bushing plate to the frame mount. Unfortunately, the nut on the bottom is welded and the bolt head on top is hard to reach without lifting the cab over 4 inches. Should go at least 5 I'd say. Its a 14mm bolts. I had to use an extractor socket to grip it and let it soak in ATF for a while to cut the rust. Much leverage needed. Slow pressure.

If the front bumper bushing bolt is stuck, you might have to remove the grille to reach it to cut it off. Removing those parts aren't hard. I had the front passenger bushing bolt frozen to the sleeve so I had to cut it. The bushing kit did not include new bolts so I ordered replacement bolts from Toyota.

This guy did a good writeup on the topic. Check it out: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/body-frame-mount-bushings-diy.407123/

 

Here’s that bolt on the steering shaft I was talking about.

 

I removed the pilot bearing today. I didn’t have a lot of time for work, but this went quickly, all of 5 minutes. I used the dry bread method, worked like a charm. Pack it in, hammer it, repeat till it pops out. I bought two tools for this job: the slide hammer type and the jaw type, none of which worked for one reason or the other. They’re going back to Amazon. This job took two slices of bread and boom, done. I also got the jaw type oil seal puller, didn’t work for me, though. I popped the oil seal out with the spikey handle type thing. The jaw type is going back to Amazon.

Tomorrow, I’m getting off work early and installing the new oil seal, pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing etc. can’t wait.



This looks like what comes out of a bears butt in springtime.

 

Installed today:

rear oil seal
Pilot bearing (w/ a bit o grease)
35lb LCE flywheel (cleaned with brakleen)
Clutch disc (LCE)
Pressure plate (LCE) also cleaned
Transmission mount and bolts (OEM)
Clutch master cylinder and hardline (Aisin from LCE)


Things are going back together

 

I’m ahead of schedule. Got the new release bearing and clutch fork installed. ‘‘Twas a breeze. Bell housing cleaned out and all necessary points greased. Now I have the transmission staged for reinstall. Imma stop here and do something else like get started on some unjoints with that new tool I got. I don’t want to run into frustration and run out of time with this transmission on the jack. I’ll take my time.

 

Whoo! The transmission is fully reinstalled with a donor crossmember, new bolts, new mount, new clutch and clutch hydraulics. Everything torqued to spec. Next up is to finish the ujoints so I can reinstall the driveshafts, etc.

 

Did you find any help or did you muscle it in yourself?

 

I handled it solo with a HF transmission jack.

 

Changed out two ujoints on the front driveshaft and reinstalled it. Greased the greasy bits. Flange bolts tightened to 54ft-lbs. Next steps are to finish the ujoints on the rear driveshaft, and reinstall it with the new center bearing. This green ujoint removal tool made extraction pretty easy. When I end up having to do this again I probably won’t go with this brand/model. Not a fan of the zerk fitting on the cup.

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks man

 

Oh yeah, lookin good, that's a fine truck you're putting together, very nice, I like the attention to detail.

 

Thanks. You making any progress on yours?

 

I'm gaining on it, almost ready to fire it up, I'm waiting on a few more parts. I have to do wiring to the rear, and brake work and I still have welding to do, but I'm closing in on it.

 

Looking forward to see some pic updates on it.

 

The truck is finally sitting on its own axle again. Driveline reinstalled with all new ujoints and carrier bearing. New ubolts, springs and shackles and donor bump stops. Slip yoke greased.

It’s come a long way, still a long way to go.

 

New fuel tank components assembled. Spectra tank and gaskets, denso pump, and Bosch screen from rock auto. New OEM tube assembly and valves from Toyota. The only thing retained were the float valve, electric wires, and that one plug on the top of the tube assembly. The old tank was lookin kinda sus.



The old tube assembly and pump:


The nasty ol tank. It had some rust on the bottom and the edges around the various holes were rusted too. Haven’t decided whether to replace the filler neck. Idk I might just cuz at this point.

 

Paint it neon green…