Damn load bearing wall.. WWJD.

I took out our over the range microwave as it was set up to filter and vent air back into the kitchen. Which generally sucks. So now I'm going to install a proper, 900 cfm, externally vented through the back hood.

The problem is that's a load bearing wall (garage on the other side), with a stud right where the rectangular vent need to go through. I don't think the gas line goes through that stud, but I know there's electrical.

Is there a way to add support without ripping the garage drywall off from floor to ceiling, removing wires, adding header and studs then pulling wire back through? Something like this? What Would Jou Do?

 

I would do it right, or not at all.

 

I'd run a laminated headers like this:

And screw, not nail the trimmers to the studs.


I'm not a professional, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express.

 

Easiest way would be to go through garage. Use a jack stud on either side supporting either an LVL or two 2x10 sandwiching a piece of 1/4 or so ply. Makes a cheap beam and is what I see used on doorway headers. Then patch the drywall as needed.

 

Is the vent really 32" (two stud bays) wide?

If it is, Can you have a sheet metal cap made for the back of the vent unit that would basically funnel all the air to the left or right so it goes through a 16" (14.5") vent and not have to cut anything?

I'd consider other options before doing what you're thinking. Keep in mind that if your garage is attached to your house that wall is a fire barrier and breaching it with a hole or vent might violate fire code.

 

Hard to know without knowing what’s above. You can usually add a stud on either side of the vent path and remove the stud that is in the way. This would involve removing the drywall from two stud bays, possibly adding a junction box if you need to cut the electric line.

 

The fire wall is a good point. He would have to build a chase, and clad it with 5/8 drywall. Fire block it if he’s going through the ceiling. I assume he’s going out the roof.

 

Going through the upper cabinet might be easier.

 

That's what I did at my previous house. 4" duct straight to the attic vent. Easier than going through the wall.

Edit: also keeps the garage from smelling like bacon. Current house vents only halfway into the attic space, which promptly migrates to the garage access. Truck sometimes smells like last night's meatloaf.

 

Photo from the garage side would help. @gtrotter07 is correct that doing the work for the header and trimmers from the garage side is the best way.

Going into the attic via the upper is also super easy but you loose cabinet space from the vent. If they aren't full height cabinets it will also look like shit no matter how well you box it out.

 

Headers and a frame need support, nor just nailed on the side to the existing studs. Double up the studs to support top and bottom by cutting 2x4s to size. Top header should be at least 2x6 doubled up.
Don’t be afraid to cut and repair drywall, youtube and practice.

 

carl - once the exhaust duct penetrates into the garage, where does it go next to exhaust to the exterior of the building?
per the international residential code, 26 gage min. sheet metal ducts may pass thru the dwelling/garage separation (no "chase" required), but there shall be no duct openings into the garage. the code aside, it's just bad form to dump exhaust air into garages or attics...take it to the exterior.

 

do this ^

 

I'd rather not go through the cabinet above because it's an 8" duct (fans will move a lot of air), plus the space above is kinda weird. Near a big skylight, another roofline comes in near there, etc. The plan is to go out the back, 90 elbow straight up, through the attic floor, through the roof then vent. I'll insulate the duct and box it in with drywall. I don't have a pic but will add one later.

The duct coming out the vent hood is rectangular, something like 4x10, which I have a transition to the 8" round, rigid metal duct. All rigid, no flex. The drawing I made is not to scale. My original plan was to pull the drywall off from floor to ceiling in the garage, cut the wire and install junction boxes so I could re-route it around, and put in a header with the jack studs. Just hoped there might be another way.

Appreciate all the advice and feedback!

 

I will say that the 90 degree elbow is not optimal by any means. Acceptable, maybe, depending on code requirements...venting/ plumbing, air and water follow the path of least resistance.
Just give that a thought.....path of least resistance and do the job right.

 

Not much I can do about it, there's no where else to go. I've read the recommendations and while not ideal, one elbow is acceptable (as you mentioned). The

 

Thanks! I like this. HD happens to have them in stock.

 

I removed drywall today and marked where the rectangular vent will come through the wall. I'm sure there are worse spots, but not by much. I forgot we closed off a door from the kitchen to the garage 20+ years ago. The 3 studs and header are one side of where that door was. The rectangular MDF board is where the vent will come through. I think adding a stud to the sides of where the vent is and cutting off those 3 studs will be the best option. What say you?