BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

You wanting a picture once it’s modified, or of the stock one?

I am going to be doing what was done here basically

 

I want to see a better photo of the doggie….

 

Here she is, she’s a toy Australian shepherd. About 4 years old now and still quite the handful

 

I’ve found there are at least two different types of crossmembers depending on the engine and trans combinations. Here’s the stock one in the 2TR Prerunner

and here’s the one in my AWD V6. My pops has a ‘14 2TR Prerunner with the A340E and his also looks like this

 

So you're going to modify the stock one, yes?

 

Yes sir

 

Got a picture of the underside, where the bolts at each end go through?

 

The reason that I ask, is due to known cracking issue, near those bolt holes. Not sure if yours is the updated one or not. However, An easy fix to help prevent that is a simple gusset.

 

Yup. Let me find the pictures.

 

Here is one reference of the cracks that were on both sides.



I wish I had an additional photo of the underside. This was I think 3/16 plate. After I straightened the cross-member, I welded a decent length on the bottom to the edge.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I’ll make sure to get this gusseted during the modification process

 

This made me go out and check mine and… I think I have a bigger problem than a crack. Probably just going to make a new one from scratch tied into the frame.

 

Oof! Yours has had a rough life!

There is a thread with a compilation of these as well. Including some people's fixes. I'd have to look for it.

 

Finished building my NWF crawl box last night. Added an oil retaining ring on the NWF input shaft since I broke one while transferring them over from the Toyota input shaft. Then sealed up the front cover of the AWD case, and fit the crawl box back to it, and sealed the front cover on that. Also swapped out the rear cover on the AWD case with a new once since the old one was slightly damaged on the area around the driveshaft flange. Crawl box and t-case is now ready for test fit on the truck, just need to cut and cap the spare crossmember to fit the R156F.



Today I moved on and installed a Toytec 1” body lift. Rear panel and kick panels had to come off but other than that there wasn’t too much interior removal required. Not too difficult but took about 5 or 6 hours all in, just lots of stuff that has to come apart



Also Toytec doesn’t do anything about the gap on the rear bumper seen here, so I bought some 5/8” ID x 1” tall 6061 aluminum spacers made for a Harley Davidson motorcycle axle and some longer 1/2" x 4" bolts. I reinstalled the factory tow hitch and set the bumper on top of the spacers to lift it up. I am still contemplating what to do for the sides, if anything, but this will hold my ocd over until I figure out a plan. Pretty stoked with how the rear bumper came out for $25 bucks in parts

here’s the bumper gap after doing the 1” body lift

And after! Much better




Edit: after driving the truck this evening, i now have realized that i will need a taller shifter stick for the hurst/core shifter. The core website says you need a longer one for 2"+ body lifts, but mine hits the console when shifting into 2nd, 4th, and reverse. Hurst 0090 is the part i ordered, it is 3" taller.

Also to anyone considering this 1" body lift, the radiator brackets did not fit well, and i had to make new ones, so keep that in mind. Everything else fit well, that was my only complaint.

 

Time to go to Rally Ready near Austin and hit the fast course yet?!?!!

 

@Lucario Runner

 

Maybe once I can get some traction haha, that does sound fun. Hoping to have this thing AWD swapped by the end of the year

 

The front end needs some attention and needs some new tires. Plus I'm waiting on my transmission mount. Might also need to look into rear bumper stops too.

 

Looks nice m8. Is the project on the home stretch?