Manual hub conversion (poll)

Ahem..

In a few weeks, I'll be redoing all my front suspension after I get the rear end back together from my rust repair project. I'll be doing the tundra brake upgrade and replacing my R&P bushings too.

If I find play in my wheel bearings and need to replace them, I may consider thinking about possibly doing a manual hub conversion while I'm in there. I have the J-shift ADD. Not that is actually a practical idea for me. I won't have a lift or do ALOT of off-roading. Thinking more along the lines of long term reliability and simplicity of parts.

Pretend parts availability and cost is not an issue, would you do it?

 

I wouldn’t.

I know manual hubs are the “40 n tons” reply but I can tell you the ADD is nice for on road driving.


Don’t know where you live but in Colorado it can be sunny and 50* where I live and then blustery white out when driving up to go skiing.

Having the luxury of just shifting into 4-Hi on the fly without pulling off to the nonexistent shoulder to lock the hubs is nice.

I’ve have my 98 for 23 years/200,000 miles and the ADD hubs are still fine.

 

Droppin the wisdom. I live in the southeast never-snow region and would head north for a camping trip or something to get offroad.

 

Pretty fair response, after hopping out to lock the hubs a few times they ended up staying locked Nov-March because I lack foresight and planning to check the forecast lol

That said I do get about 2MPG better with the hubs unlocked so when I did a ton of driving I appreciated them

 

Oof, that would be inconvenient.

 

I help folks do a ton of these manual conversions and have listed numerous reasons why to convert. None of them are necessary but it just provides different options. The only two "reliability issues" of ADD would be the actuator on the diff and the rotation of the boots constantly, potentially causing premature wear. Everyone has different "needs" or desires. Reliability of having manual work when you need it versus trusting an electronic part is possibly the strongest argument, but many will share anecdotes of a window handle that broke on them before. I don't think anyone needs it, bottom line.

In addition, for the argument of shift on the fly, you just leave your hubs locked during the monsoon, snow, mudding, trail ride, whatever season and then you have the same shift on the fly capability as ADD. Just some extra food for thought.

 

So it's like a best of both worlds kinda situation?

 

Perhaps, but it still costs money to convert. In addition, the lockout hubs do need to be checked every now and then for free movement so they don't get locked up in one position or the other. Maintenance isn't a burden but shouldn't be overlooked.

 

I certainly prefer manual hubs, you can get better mpg, there's just less to go wrong and it gives you options (for example, if you break a CV).

I'm on the fence though whether its worth the effort to convert though.

 

40s n tons

But if you find it hard getting your hands on a kit, just skip converting the manual hubs. Why go through the hassle of not only replacing the wheel hub on your spindle, but also sourcing manual hub cv axles, manual hub assemblies, and dealing with your differential extension (via clamping method or replacing with manual hub variant).

 

That was my line of thought. Only considering if I find I need to replace my bearings anyway. We'll see once I get there. I'm kinda on a roll with this truck and getting silly ideas.

 

That hassle will probably be the only real reason I decide not to.

 

And I will throw in manual differential complete diff tube for free with a whole kit like pictured below.

 

Thats a fair point about the fuel economy.

But I’d sacrifice 2 mpg for the sanctity of my life. I couldn’t imagine having to pull over on the side of I-70 to lock my hubs with all the nimrods racing to get to the parking lot first.

 

I'm very impressionable

 

Manual hubs you can buy brand new still, or find some used but you'll want to verify that there isn't excessive wear otherwise you'll find it hard to replace specific items...and at that point you may as well have bought new manual hub assemblies.

I've had new as well as rebuilt several sets.

Easy to service, and easy to find serviceable items IE o-ring, detent ball and spring, gaskets, etc.

Anyway, going new sets you back over $250 for the pair.

Going through the hassle of taking apart your differential extension (dropping a diff sucks), but also finding out you've got new sockets to buy (if you have e-torx bolts) and you're adding to that cost as well as time wasted.

Goodluck sourcing a manual hub diff tube, think I sold mine for as much as people pay for an entire differential (though not much, they're only like $100).

Then you'll want cv axles, and anyone that knows anything will tell you to go CVJ or OEM. That's another $400-500 for the pair? You can save a lot here by going used and getting a kit with new grease and boots, but how much do you value your time?

The wheel hubs aren't expensive, but let's add another $100-150 for the pair. You'll need these seeing as how your manual hub cv axles don't have a threaded end like the ADD variants do. They're held in place by a lock ring and a bolt/washer as a failsafe on the ends of them.

I would've spent that money on a selectable front locker instead

 

@zippsub9 I saw your thread in the BST and it got me thinking. I might shoot you a PM.

 

That gets dicey

 

Solid advice. I do need to study the how-to-do-it more to be sure I'm prepared to take the job on if I decided I want to do it. I know there are several threads and videos on the subject.

 

It's an easy job, the entire thing really just a pain in the ass and dirty.

I just don't see the value in it at all when you're spending money to convert an already good system, for another already good system.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if you've got money to throw away, more power to you!

I'd go locker, or at least nice suspension components or tires instead.