My mild Tacoma build and why I don't have money to buy you dinner; by rnish

Love the build man!

How does the gearing like the 255s?

Any thoughts or needs to re-gear???

 

Truck is a bit less responsive. Lost 2 MPG. Nothing I can’t live with. With full armor and stuff the trucks over 5000lbs. As is I’m happy. A re-gear would get expensive, because while I’m at it I’d add a locker, rear disk brakes and 35’s.

 

Joying Head Unit (HU) installation.

Doc Version: 8/06/2022. Still a work in progress. However, time to live with the Joying, as is, and see what I like and what annoys, etc.

CarJoying is a automobile HU that also functions as an android tablet. Installation is not entirely plug and play. This is a consolidated installation documentation of the Joying HU drawn from many TW people, TW pages and other websites. Sorry, no attributions are provided, this doc took way to long to create as is. As always YMMV.

Why Joying? It's an android tablet so many apps are available. For example the plan is to add Gaia maps and Amazon Music. Dasaita is another popular brand. However, the 9" Joying looks OEM. Its also 1/2 the price of similar Kenwood, JVC (etc) units.

The Plan:

My truck is a Toyota Tacoma 2014 TRD Sport (second generation). The speakers and tweeters have been previously upgraded. Planning on using the embedded Joying amplifier.

Non-JBL. Important for the steering wheel controls. My understanding this means no CANBUS. This dictates which wire harness is employed. For me w/o the "redbox".

No Toyota navigation (GPS). Eliminating the Sirus/XM radio. Keeping the stock backup camera and adding a front camera. Already have a Scangauge II, so no need for the Joying OBD2 module.


Steering Wheel



Stock HU non-JBL



Helpful Video's

Video1: Camera wiring videos from Crutchfield

https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/how-to-run-wires-and-power-a-backup-camera.html
​

Video2: How to remove HU and trim.

You do not need to remove the trim for the HU replacement. YMMV.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FytEAwBgMo
​

Video3:How to Remove the Instrument Cluster on 2nd Generation (2005- 2015) Toyota Tacoma (Not something you need for the HU but I may run the GPS and other wire there) ​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh_SmWsSZH8
​

Parts List:

• #1 Joying Android 10.0 Stereo 9 Inch Car Radio for Toyota Tacoma 2005-2015 Touch Screen Head Unit Car in-Dash Navigation GPS Units
  • The machine

• #2 PAC CAM-TY12 Reverse Camera Harness (for Select 2014.5 to 2017 Toyota Vehicles)
  • Required to keep the OEM backup camera

• #3 EPSPIC Front/Backup Camera 170° Wide Angle, FHD 1080P Night Vision Rear View Camera, IP69K Waterproof Metal Front/Reverse Rear View, DC12V-24V Back up Car Camera for Trucks Pickup SUV RV Vans
  • New front view camera.
  • This 1080P camera comes with a wire harness that terminates in a RCA connector. A RCA connector is good to 480i? How is this a 1080P camera?

• #4 ZSMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 6V/3A Power Supply Module-A
  • Required to keep the OEM backup camera

• #5 SanDisk 64GB Ultra microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - 120MB/s, C10, U1, Full HD, A1, Micro SD Card - SDSQUA4-064G-GN6MA
  • Additional 64GB of storage for my 60GB music library

• #6 BNTECHGO 20 Gauge Silicone Wire 10 ft red and 10 ft Black Flexible 20 AWG Stranded Copper Wire
  • Switched hot wire for front camera. This wire is good to 200C or ~400F

• #7 ICESPRING 2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet)
  • Additional USB ports

• #8 Sim Card (T-Moble)
  • Adding a cell data line. $ monthly

• #9 Yasinngi Cable Clip,Self-Adhesive Cable Management Clip, Cable Holder, Upgraded Version of Strong Wire Manager, Suitable for Car, Home, Outdoor, Office
  • Wire management

• #10 PAC USB-TY1 Toyota/Lexus OEM USB Port Retention Cable
  • OEM USB port to Joying HU

• #11 Front Camera switch 9B84NG Toyota
  • https://www.aironboard.com.au/store...toyota-push-switch-dual-led-green-on-off.html
  • This what I ordered but it looks like its been updated YMMV

Some Assembly Required

Remove the OEM HU as per Video2. Removing the trim is not necessary. I label everything.




Connect the Joying HU (JHU), using the supplied wire harness. Its fairly plug and play, the male and female plugs are all unique and only mate to their respective socket.







Apply power. Basic stereo and radio should work. At this point no RCA plugs are necessary. The box does get warm, but not too hot to touch.

Joying Passwords:

• Factory settings: 3368
• Changing ui: 8086
• Logo setting: 0000
• Backlight: 5768

4G LTE

This process should be basically the same for all cell service providers. T-Mobile customers. The data SIM cards are free. There is a monthly service charge. T-Mobile or Joying may tell you they are not compatible. Data service does work (here), YMMV.

Frequencies/bands that both Joying and T-Mobile support:

• Band 2(1900 MHz)
• Band 5 (850 MHz)

Order a new physical data SIM card. There is a eSIM, I do not know how that works. The SIM card arrived in the mail in a short week. Contact your service provider (e.g. T-Mobile) to activate the card. They will need the numbers on the back of the SIM card.

Insert the SIM card in the JHU SIM dongle. Reset the JHU, there is a tiny hole on the front of the JHU (metal box). A paper clip works.






OEM Rear Camera:

The objective is to keep the OEM reverse camera. IMHO less wiring, cleaner install. This historically has been accomplished by two main methods. The first is to cut into the factory wire harness. The second method is to add an aftermarket adapter. Logically both methods are the same:

• Connect power (6 volts) to the rear camera.
• Connect the backup trigger to the JHU. Telling the JHU the vehicle is in reverse and so turn on the backup camera.
• Route the backup camera video to the JHU.

Method 2, using an aftermarket adapter is documented here.

Obtain these or functionally identical items. #2 and #4 from the Parts List.

• PAC CAM-TY12 Reverse Camera Harness
• ZSMAKN DC Converter 12v to 6V

What was purchased (PAC CAM-TY12):




Most of the aftermarket Reverse Camera Harness (PAC CAM-TY12) is not used. On the 24 pin harness, keep the male RCA jack and the 2 adjacent wires (4 wires total). The rest of the Reverse Camera Harness (the hydra below) is not used.



This is what is being buildt. The following is liberally copied and edited from previous posts. Where the diagram below says "Red Wolf" insert/think "PacCamTY12" (or aftermarket harness). Also note the "Backup 12v Trigger" wire is physically red, not yellow as in the diagram.



Connect the 12V accessory power from the Joying head unit (red wire), via a 12v to 6v step down converter. Black goes to ground. The OEM camera uses 6v, this is why you need the voltage converter.

You should have something that look like below. The "SMAKN" box to the connector is the 6v part of the above diagram. Not shown below ---> Black ground and red power spliced into the Joying main connector. Creating two 3 way splices, a black ground 3 way and a red power 3 way.



Connect the trigger wire from the main female connector, of the Joying harness (orange wire labeled "back"), to pin 2 on the 28 pin connector (also part of the Joying rat nest of a harness). This is done to pick up the Tacoma reverse signal. The reverse signal (on my 2014) comes from pin 2 on the 28 pin Tacoma factory harness. YMMV.




Others find a reverse signal under the driver side fuse box, but this didn't apply to my 2014 since reverse was already in the factory harness.

What the Joying supplied wire harness, plus the SMAKN 12v to 6v converter, plus what's used of the PacCamTY12 harness looks like when complete (soldered together):




Install the complete modified wire harness in the vehicle, turn on the vehicle, select reverse. The JHU should display a reverse view.




Front Camera:

This is a new installation. I got a EPSPIC Front/Backup Camera (#3 from Parts List). It's advertised as IP69, waterproof to x meters for y minutes.


Mounted Front Camera.



The provided camera cable assembly is for a full size truck tailgate installation. This is a front installation on a midsize truck. The provide documents says the cable is 6 meters, ~26 feet. I cut 15 feet off the cable, leaving about 10 feet. Still too long but manageable. The wire is very thin. The splice went ok, but my 1/8 inch shrink tube is too large.



The camera is rated at 65 mA @ 3.3 V. The switch is rated at 3 A @ 12 V. A typical relay coil will draw ~150 mA @ 12 V. The plan is to splice into the Joying harness for power and ground. Going directly through the switch for camera power, thus no relay.

Upcoming mod to splice the purple illumination wire (see switch) into the Joying Red (ACC) wire. There is no easy access "illumination" wire. FYI, the green wire on the switch is the power to the front camera.





Front Camera adjustment. A wire cut may be required to get the image or view, correct (i.e., right side up, right side on the right, etc). This is dependent on the camera, and how it was installed. For this camera, a front/down install, it was necessary to cut the green camera control wire (not the power wire), to "mirror" the image. There is no apparent Joying video "mirror" control. There is a "mirror" adjustment for the backup camera.



Normal View



Annotated Front Camera View

• The white guide line is about 2 feet in front of the bumper. Not a "tire view" but still a win.

• The green guide line is ~3.5 feet.

• The blue guide line is ~5.5 feet.

• The black oval. The 2 boards are set apart about the width of the truck, ~6 feet. The near end of the boards are 7 feet away from the bumper. The far end of the boards are 10 feet.

• The red box. From the driver seat, looking over the scoop, my normal view is limited to ~10 feet minimal. The base of the bench is 20 feet. The bench is 6 feet wide, essentially the width of the truck.

Final Physical Installation:

Few comments, no pictures. I used the OEM mounting brackets. The holes on the brackets are too far forward and the attachment clips don't allow the screen to seat.

Drimeled the OEM mount bracket OEM holes, oval. Then removed the 4 plastic attachment clips from the screen (male) and the CPU box (female). The CPU box is held by the OEM brackets. The screen is held by the 5? plastic clips.

Stock HU



Joying HU






Removed the last blank and added the front camera on/off button. Removed 1 cigarette lighter port and added 2 USB ports.



Car Launcher:

Went with Car Launcher Pro. Looked at AGAMA. Functionally, it looked like a tossup. Both were $5.99. The deciding factor was AGAMA is a Russian product.





Video Capture:

Plan "A" was was to use a product like "Open Camera" or "Camera MX" to capture the video off the trucks new front camera. After installing the product(s) on the Joying HU, and working on it for several hours, neither of these could access the front camera.

Plan "B" was to mount my GoPro 7 Black on the front of the truck and then control and monitor the GoPro through the Joying. No success getting "Quick App", the GoPro mobile video photo app, to control the GoPro camera through the Joying. The GoPro and the app would connect and see each other. I could not establish control over the GoPro camera. Spent hours over several days.

Plan "C" is to mount my GoPro 7 Black on the front of the truck, and then control and monitor the GoPro through "Quick App", on the iPhone. This works. In real time, I can see, capture and delete, GoPro video and pictures on the iPhone.

Either Joying is blocking some apps that compete with video products it sells or this version of Android 12 doesn't like these apps.

Screen Capture: Meh. Screen scraping.



Performance:

Insure the HU and any WiFi connections are set at 5GHz not 2.4GHz


Setup: Found on the interweb. Appears to be multiple ways (versions) to setup. A lot of this is N/A to me, I don't have CAN BUS.

• Anykey Boot: If you choose this one, then when you turn on the car radio, any button can replace the power button to turn on the radio

• Brake Set: That is for you to choose whether or not you can watch the video when you drive the car

• Auto Navi: It is for when you turn on the car radio, turn on the Navigation automatically

• Rear View: It is for you to choose the reverse image as the mirror image or original image - Mirror the rear view camera

• Backlight Control: Small light control / Time Control

• Default volume switch

• GPS Mix - does not let the Nav and Assistant talk over the Radio when playing, this is newest android 10 radio purchased 2021 december.

• Sound Mixing Scale - For instance if you want the radio volume louder than the music player.

• Map Data Copy

• Amp switch: I have an OEM amplifier but hear no difference with this switch on or off. Guess it's for external amps.

• Dormancy setting: For when you turn the vehicle off (accessory or power off). Choose if you want deep sleep or power off.

Note: The unit does not shut down, it goes to sleep. That's why when you restart your car, it only takes 3sec for it to come up. It was designed this way. It consumes little power when in sleep mode, so it should not affect your battery.

If you go to "Settings" -> "Car Settings" -> "Extra Settings" -> "Shutdown Delay when ACC Off", the default value is "Auto Sleep". Changing this to one of the other values will cause the unit to do a full shutdown when the power is off.​

• Radar Switch - Parking sensors

• Reverse Line Guide - Guides on rear view camera display

• MCU panel Key: it is to lock the buttons at the left of the panel. I turned it off. The buttons seem more responsive.

• Door lock interface: It is control your car door lock. The password for door lock interface setting is 0000. That is very likely to be just a translation error. It should be the setting for Driver side door, left or right. “Driver Door Side” and “Door Lock Interface” are separate toggles in some settings. Assuming this is for CAN BUS.

• Show App Write Flash:

• Automatic start and stop:

• System specific information:

• One-click set-up:

• CAN box upgrade: N/A I don't have CAN BUS

• MCU upgrade

Addendum:

• Resetting the JHU
  • There should be a pin hole on the front of the JHU (metal box). Turn power on. Insert a special service tool (e.g., paper clip). Press gently. The JHU should go through a boot cycle.
  • There is also a soft reset from the front panel. From the top of the screen, drag down. It should appear with a few other controls.

• Installing Android 12 (from Android 10). It works.

Impressions:

The amplifier sounds good. Better than the stock HU. So it’s a win there.

The FM tuner is serviceable but it is not HD Radio.

BlueTooth - CarPlay works but seems a bit flaky, maybe user error. Not as seamless as the VW.

 

The GoPro 7 Black:

Bumper Mount:

Took some scrap aluminum (~1/8" X 3" x 6"), cleaned it up, bent (beat) it into 90 degrees. Drilled the mounting holes. Filed, sanded then rattle can primed and topcoats.




GoPro installed on the bumper shackle mount.



DIY WiFi antenna. 12 feet of Belden 1695a (RG6?). Grounds stripped 6 cm on each end. It enhances the WiFi connection in the cab. Ends are placed in close proximity to the GoPro and the iPhone (@2.4 GHz).

 

SubWoofer Installation:

Ordered the smallest under seat SW/Amp, that could supply meaningful bass reinforcement. At 100 Watts RMS, it won’t shatter windows. It will take some of the load off the HU amp. Bought as a Amazon “scratch and dent" special.

For the SW “proof of concept”: Power is coming off the no longer used OEM cigarette lighter power port that was removed to make room for aftermarket USB connections. The OEM power is already fused for 15 amps and the power wire is pre-run to the center console. Sub-power and sub-signal wire installation is (thus) simplified.

Picture of SW signal and power wire being run from the center console to under the passenger seat.



SW installation and shakeout. As small as the SW is (10" x 8" x 3"), the passenger seat may have to be unbolted to slide the SW under.





Installation Redux:

The SW “proof of concept” was a success. For the permanent installation, running dedicated power and ground from the engine bay to the SW. 8 gauge for power and 6 gauge ground. The amp requires 20 amps however this leaves future room to go to 40-50 amps.

The existing firewall grommets are full. Drilled a 1.125 - 1.250 hole through the firewall. To make room to drill, the brake cable was disconnected and carpet cut.




Cool little bit. Not expensive and make fast work in sheet metal.

 

Looking good Buddy! That new deck looks oem-ish, very nice fit and finish.

Any plans for the old deck?

 

Switch panel replaced. The window switches are backlit and momentary auto up and down.


https://cartrimhome.com/Door-Switch-For-Toyota-Tacoma-2012-2015

 

I just bought that. I bought mine (I think) with white switches and looking at yours I should have gotten green. Really looking forward to installing it.

 

Replacing the Lower Control Arms:

After I replaced the UCA's, Firestone said they couldn't do an alignment because the cams were frozen. They did bend/flatten my cam tabs for free. Firestone said $1200-1400 for Moog LCA's installed.


LCA's are out.



Flat cam tabs.



Parts list, installation

Dirt King LCA's

Trail Tacoma's DK LCA installation and review. Remove the extra t in trail -->. Then insert "ttrailtacoma.com" for "****" on the link below.

https://***************/2021/01/26/dirt-king-lower-control-arms-install-review-3rd-gen-tacoma/

Dirt King link

https://dirtkingfabrication.com/col...ucts/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811704

Got a carbide blade for the reciprocating saw (Sawzall), to cut the LCA's off. Forget the bimetal blades unless you get paid by the hour.

Diablo DS0908CF 9" Steel Demon Carbide Recip Blade for Thick Metal Cutting


Ordered the Toyota OEM cam adjusters pictured below. One set per side. Verified that “most” of these parts fit. I can’t verify that the A0001 nut fits; it was never shipped. The old nuts were reused. The 48409-60020 caster adjuster is what had to be cut through to get the LCA off. Truth in advertising. Copied the following bolt diagram off another post.



Passenger side LCA is in.




Driver side. Hidden from view; there is a 0.25” taco lean spacer on top of the coilover.

 

Fixing Flat Cam Tabs:

Remove the LCA's. Inspect the carnage.



Drill out the spot welds and remove. One of the cam fix scenarios was to remove the OEM tabs, fix and weld them back on the truck. Although doable, the Total Chaos cam tab kit will be a cleaner solution.



Still need to fill in the divots.



Total Chaos Cam Tab Kit has arrived. Ordered Aug 27, shipped UPS Aug 30, arrived Sept 7. Set of 8, in 2 sizes, front and back.




Weld in the tabs from the back.



Run a bead on each side.



Grinding and abrasive flappy wheel clean up.



Installed



Final coat of paint

 

Badass build dude! Can’t beat the DIY gang! Total chaos tabs are top notch material. I recently did an installation of those and they are cut to perfection and they are beeeeeeeeefy!

 

How do they look at night? Are they brighter than the oem switch? Color compared to oem green?

 

My OEM switch did not have any backlight. Thus incentive to change to a switch with backlighting. The color in the picture is a good rendition. It’s more blue than OEM.

 

How bad of a job is cutting the Cams out of the LCAs? My cams are seized and I need to do this, but I’m skeered…

 

Absolutely get a carbide tipped sawzall blade. This is some hardened steel. Most of the bolts came out easy enough with a 18” persuasion bar. Both caster adjuster’s (L & R) had to be cut out. I burned through a couple quality bimetallic blades before I got the “Diablo” carbide blade. The part# of the blade I used is listed above.

 

where have you been all my life

 

Early November 2022. Replaced the Toyota OEM brake master cylinder with the SOS Performance Sequoia MC kit. The 2001-2007 Toyota Sequoia Master Cylinder Kit is made for 2009-2022 Toyota Tacoma(s) and also fits other models. This is in preparation for a Rear Disc Brake Conversion. This was a splurge of the moment purchase. SOS had 30% off cosmetic blemish kits.

Installation was relatively straight forward. Bending the new brake lines was fussy. Messing with brake fluid is messy.

The pedal is firmer and it is easier to lock the brakes, activating the ABS. Not too much to see, installation picture below.




Original Master Cylinder

 

can i get some help for building onto my interior touch screen for my 2002 yoda