Detailers, when do you call it on foam pads?

Got these last year from Chemical Guys. After todays pinstripe removal session this what they are looking like. I was trained on lambs wool pads and these are my first foam pads. When are they done???

 

Those look pretty done to me.

 

Yeah, that's toast. Looks like you overheated the pad by leaning on the edge of the pad too long. With foam pads, you typically want to keep the pad completely flat with light pressure and let the rotation/orbit do the work.

 

Thanks for the advice. I am using my old Makita polisher, so lots of power. I did let things get dry towards the end... so not surprised at the results here.

 

Those are HexLogic pads and I use a ton of them. (They work very nicely when used properly.) I've never had one fail like that, and I agree that too much pressure / too high of a speed and thus too much heat cooked them. Run the pad flat on the vehicle surface, drop the RPM's a bit and reduce the pressure on the pads.

 

They’re done

 

Okay... so more polish, less pressure and/or turn down the rpm's. Thanks. Is there a pre dressing I should be doing with the pads? They take up polish but seem dry to me for starting. Dampen the pads with water? Just wondering. Didn't have troubles last year, but the truck was much more scratched up this time.

 

There are pad priming liquids you can buy, but I've never used them so I can't speak for how much of a difference they make.

 

I didn't mention the amount of polish in my original reply, but since you did ... I'm assuming that the pads in your pics had been cleaned after use? If not, you're not using nearly enough polish. Depending on what product / polish I'm using, I generally use about 4-5 dime size spots on a pad. When that polish is used up (starting to dry out), it's time for more. I never wet a pad with water prior to use. You can "prime" the pad by spreading the polish around on a new pad with your finger or by lightly moving the pad around on the surface to be polished prior to firing up the polisher. The trick is to never let a dry pad do the work. Polish not only does the polishing, but it also lubricates the pad and to a certain extent, keeps it from getting too warm.

 

yea, I cleaned them first. I do it in a similar fashion. Just wondered if the pads needed to be prewetted. Thanks

 

I usually do a light mist of Adam's exterior detail spray on top of the pad with whatever buffing compound, wax, or sealant I'm using. It's usually called "priming" the pad.

Then I'll dab the polisher/pad over the panel I'm working with and start with a low speed 2 or so to help spread the product; then up it to speed 4-5 for buffing or 2-3 for waxes and sealants. Don't spend too much time on edges of panels like edges of hoods, doors, ect as the clear coat is usually thinest in those sections.

I recommend changing pads out after each panel or every couple of panels if they're small to avoid overheating the pads and possibly transferring removed "debris" onto another section of the car.

I think everything else was covered? (keeping pads, flat, adjusting rpms as needed).

 

Also, start with one or two vertical and one two horizontal passes and overlap each pass 50%. That'll give you an idea of you need a more aggressive pad/compound or something lighter. I like a lot of Jescar and Rupes products btw.

 

You should also be changing out your pad for new/clean one after each panel, or cleaning the one you are using after each panel. The buildup of used/dry polish will also contribute to the deterioration of the pad. Also, not using a clean pad will introduce micro scratches/swirles while you are doing the paint correction.

 

Okay-this was useful. With wool pads use a spur tool to clean it-wash the foam. Thanks