AC System Repair Estimate

took the one out from my 2000 7.3 and doubt its been changed. Surprisingly less metal shavings than I thought.

 

I haven't received the compressor or expansion valve yet but decided to start disassembly. There was zero pressure of R134a in the system and when I pressed the pin of the Schrader valve, nothing came out.

I removed the condenser, all lines and expansion valve. I also removed the radiator, fan, fan shroud and some other stuff that was in the way as I would rather work comfortably than struggle squeezing parts around. The hardest part was removing the refrig line feeding the expansion valve...had to do some maneuvering to get it out...figure flushing the lines and inspecting them will be easier out of the vehicle. The filter wasn't that dirty which surprised me a bit.

Expansion valve, as Jimmyh demonstrated in his photos, does indeed come out very easily through the firewall. I threaded a bolt into the center hole to make a handle making it easier to remove.

I did all this work, taking my time, working slowly in just under two hours. Charging $1200 for expansion valve R&R is robbery.

Here are some photos if anyone is interested:

 

Compressor came out in less than 10 minutes as the lines were already disconnected. Took it apart and sure enough there is aluminum residue everywhere and the cylinder walls are scored from lack of oil. I'm reusing the mag clutch as I suspect it's still good and it isn't that hard to change later even with the compressor mounted in the vehicle.

I inspected the condenser as I'm pretty sure that's where the leak was. The two lower corners were discolored and after cleaning the fins in that area I found a couple of spots that looked pitted and may have been the leaks or the leaks may have been on the lower passenger side fitting where it's brazed (or welded) to the body. Hard to say definitively.

 

Excellent work and explanation. Loved all the pictures they will surely help someone someday.

 

Damn, great documentation and photos. Nice Job. Hope she is blowing cold soon.

 

Note that the expansion valve kit comes with the valve, the valve to connector tube, gaskets and filter. So I didn't need to order a filter.

Also, Conicelli Toyota wouldn't ship the condenser (probably wise considering shipping damage) so I ordered one from my local dealer which was a little more expensive.

I'll post a new Excel later once it's updated with all costs.

I was checking the gasket kit I ordered from Rock Auto and noticed that not everything matches up. There are two of the very small ID green gaskets but it only matches up to one spot (condenser outlet line)...not sure what the second is for. Which leaves me missing one of the next size up gaskets. But that doesn't matter since the expansion valve kit comes with its own gaskets but I'm curious why this set (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1532558&cc=1434688&pt=13290&jsn=10880) is wrong. Also what's the difference between the black and green gaskets? There are three gaskets of the same diameter but two are green and one is black.

 

I found this post about colors of gaskets for AC systems: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/a-c-o-ring-color-changes/

But it doesn't answer why the set would include one black and two green of the same size. I suspect it doesn't matter but I'd like to be sure the gaskets aren't application specific and screw something up.

I double checked that I ordered the correct kit...and according to Rock Auto and the Four Seasons site, 26802 is correct.

 

Project is complete. Air at the center vent is 46F on low blower speed, low pressure gauge 30psi, high pressure gauge 218psi, ambient temp 80F. Took 21.6oz of R134a. No leaks (checked with an AC refrigerant sniffer).

I kept totals of all my time and a conservative number is 8 hours (over a couple of days...not all at once...was waiting on parts to arrive). This is me not rushing, taking my time, removing anything that was in the way. And it's really less than that because I tallied an hour for vacuum draw down but I was reinstalling the radiator, fan, shroud and refilling with coolant during that time. Granted I am a former diesel mech so I've got experience and know how to work efficiently but I think anyone competent can do this is in 8 hours. Parts total was just over $1300 which includes $500 in tools...so parts are really about $800. I'll attach an updated Excel which also has labor lines.

The independent shop was going to charge 20 hours labor at $110.75/hr and the whole job would have been just under $4k while dealer was around $4.2k. I have no problem paying a shop to do work and do it all the time as I really don't enjoy turning wrenches anymore as my body is breaking down but I do have a problem when a shop estimates 2.5 times actual labor. I suspect it's an issue with the flat rate manual.

Some notes:

1. Used Nylog Blue gasket sealer on all the gaskets as I recall the refrigeration guys at the shop where I used to work swore by the stuff and it has good reviews and recommendations. Hopefully it works ok.
2. The gasket surfaces of the refrigeration lines at the condenser were pretty grubby which makes me wonder if my leaks were actually at the connections. Anyway, cleaned them up with scotch brite pads prior to install.
3. Flushing is fairly straightforward although the evaporator was a little difficult since I'm accessing it through the firewall. I put a Tygon 1/2" ID hose on the lower connection and put it into a container which worked well but the air gun that came with the flush kit was a tight fit through the firewall opening trying to access that upper port. There's a photo below of the set-up and of the container after the flush.
4. I mentioned earlier that the expansion valve kit from OEM comes with filter, inner gaskets and new screws so no need to order the filter separately.
5. I ordered PAG w/dye but I received PAG oil with no dye. Oh well. Didn't feel like going out to procure dye so I'll need to use the sniffer during oil changes to check for leaks as part of my routine now. Hopefully, this repair outlives me and/or the truck.
6. Valve cores are real easy to swap out and cheap insurance against problems.
7. Compressor came with 150ml of PAG oil (5.28 oz) so I added 1.4oz of oil to condenser and 1.4oz to evap.
8. Robinair vacuum pump and gauge set worked well.
9. Compressor mag clutch (original) used the same three washers from the original install giving a gap of 0.014 inches which is well in spec.
10. Glad I removed the radiator and fan and shroud because it gives you so much more room to work and no need to worry about puncturing it by mistake. I saw a number of posts where people replaced the condenser by just loosening the radiator and pushing it towards the engine to get the condenser out. No thanks. But to each his own.
11. A rubber strap wrench works well on the mag clutch when torquing the bolt to 10 lb-ft.
12. Wire wheeled all bolts prior to install. Use blue loctite on mag clutch bolt and on the studs for the fan.

Thanks for the assistance and hopefully this post may help someone in the future.

 

Great job! And the numbers look pretty good. The only thing I would question is you say it "took" 21.6 ounces of R134a. You should weigh in the exact amount specified. It will always take more if you try. I am not 100% sure of the spec but it may be a tad overcharged.... or not. I don't have the spec handy.

 

Thanks!

Poor choice of words on my part. I put in 21.6 oz. Spec is 20.1-22.22oz. I did use a digital scale. The last half oz just didn't seem to want to go and the gauges were showing good numbers so I stopped at that point.

 

Perfect. What happens as the can discharges into the system it cools and its pressure drops to where it is close to the low side pressure. So it can slow down a lot. You can stop and let the can warm back to ambient, or put it in a saucepan of warm water. That'll keep it going.

 

shin
Joined Tacomaworld today, to say thank you for your, unfortunately, timely post. Last week, top of the 90s day, AC light starts to flash and compressor screaming.
You have already saved me hours of research time. I will be getting into this shortly.

 

shmn Auto correct did that.

 

Reply to SHMN
The AC kits I've found seem to have expansion valve OR orifice/screen but not both. The word "orifice" usually means a form of expansion valve. Your picts show both? The other question is: Do the 2nd gens have a low pressure switch to control the clutch and if so where is it located and does it get replaced in the repair?

 

I suspect you may be looking at Rock Auto or something similar and buying a kit. I highly recommend going with OEM (which is not that much more expensive...but the peace of mind, IMO, is worth it). Especially for the condenser. Buy these aftermarket kits at your own risk. I've noticed there is no way to contact Rock Auto pre-sale to ask questions which is something I don't like. At least I haven't found a contact link or phone number. I ordered oil, Schrader valves and gaskets from them and they sent the wrong oil, the gasket kit was lacking but the valves looked ok. Next time, I'll skip them all together. Of course, some people like Rock Auto...so to each his own.

There is one shown in the photo below. If you think there is a problem with it, replace it. If not, don't. There really isn't a correct answer. All up to your comfort level.

 

The circled item looks like it on a line coming from the condenser. Is that not a "highside line"? I also see (not circled) a switch or some kind electrical connector on the compresser on the bottom of the picture could "that" be a low side pressure switch?

 

The pressure switch as circled in my photo does double duty...detects pressure that is too high and too low. See excerpt from service manual below.

The sensor on bottom of the compressor checks for compressor speed (to see if it's rotating or not).