I want a truck that Toyota never made

There is a second layer of metal inside of the tailgate and requires a bit more to work to remove... so that the rivet nuts fit tight and sit flush. I used a step drill bit to avoid going deep and hitting the outside of the tailgate while getting the hole just wide enough for the rivet nut to fit tight. I also used a Dremel with an orange aluminum oxide grinding stone to remove some of this inner material without opening the rivet hole any wider.

 

Rivet nuts are 6mm.

 

Finally able to detail the exterior and hit it with ceramic since the body work.

 

G'Day Mate, new to the forum but i really enjoyed your build and this mentality. There is a lot of satisfaction in knowing you've got a truck no one else has, and that isn't modified out of seeking attention, but to address your own needs.

Couldn't agree more there is nothing better than a highly modified OEM look car that most people wouldn't tell the difference. And those with half an idea stand their scratching their chin, thinking they know its different… but cant tell you why.

 

Thank you, I really appreciate that it means a lot. I have been really enjoying the truck and totally worth all the time creating it. I will never be done with it. I will also being adding or changing something but will keep updating this thread. It is just something I like to do. Have a good one.

 

Added a URD 3 inch stainless Mark3 cat back exhaust system.

 

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UPDATE... I have had the exhaust on my truck for over a year. I don't really like the location of the exhaust tip... it seems to sag and I wish it was lifted up closer to the ground effect. I replaced 4 of the factory rubber exhaust hangers with 4 12mm polyurethane Miata aftermarket exhaust hangers Model number 902-541. They retail for about $13.49 each. They say these hangers are designed for a 2006-2018 Miata. I picked these because the 12mm holes are about 1/8 of an inch closer to each other then the factory ones. They are also a lot stiffer and don't let the heavy exhaust sag as much as the factory ones did. So, I believe these raised my exhaust up by about 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch... closing the gap from the top of the exhaust tip to the ground effect. These are pretty easy to install if you have some WD-40 and an exhaust hanger removal tool.

 

Looks fantastic! How does it sound?

 

It sounds nice. I really like it and glad I made the swap. It is slightly louder and deeper than the factory exhaust. When I did the frame swap, I put on a dynomax 2 1/2 inch cat back exhaust system and it was louder than this URD 3 inch stainless exhaust system but I don’t prefer a louder exhaust for a daily driver. Overall, I am very happy with the sound and the look of this URD exhaust.

 

I have tried different floor mats in this truck and I think I have finally found a set I really like. I liked the factory floor mats a lot but I was starting to notice some wear on the trans tunnel carpet by the accelerator peddle where my heal rubs against it. I tried a set of WeatherTech floor mats and they were a bit slick and just so big and bulky. I bought a front set of floor mats from 3D Mats USA. I have been using them for about a month now. I really liked them, so I wanted to share this. They are a great mix between the factory mats and the WeatherTech mats. They cover enough of the trouble ears without being to big and bulky. We are not slick like the WheatherTech mats. They are easy to clean and fit very nicely. 3D MAXpider Custom Fit KAGU Floor Mat (BLACK) TOYOTA TACOMA REG/ACS CAB 2012-2015 - Front Row only (L1TY09111509)

2 year plus update. I still love these 3D floor mats. Super simple to clean. Wash them down with a water hose and soap and let them dry. Done.

 

Just got my truck out of the body shop. I had the outside part of all 4 doors repainted, since I was starting to get the dreaded Toyota white defective paint/primer problem that many of us with white trucks are dealing with but Toyota is doing nothing about except making us pay for this problem. The paint was peeling off around the windows on both the driver's and passenger's side. This is not cheap to do it right. I had to buy new access cab windows on both sides (62730-04020 & 62740-04010) since they are not removable and glued into place. I had to buy all new outer trim around the front windows both sides (68161-04050, 68151-04030, 68162-04050, & 68141-04030). Many body shop will do this different ways but I wanted it all repainted and not have to deal with this problem later because these parts were not removed and painted under.

 

Damn. Bummer to hear about the paint problem, but holy crap that truck looks brand friggin new inside and out. I'm just astounded by the detail and fit and finish. You're truly a master at the finish work that makes a build look complete.

 

As much work and $ as you have in that jewel, I think I would have been tempted to install Kindig door handles since the doors were getting worked over anyway.

Re paint, my RAV qualified and actually came out decent. However, door jams, under hood, etc, were not repainted, just all the easily visible exterior surfaces. So you have a much better job done. That stripping to bare metal and starting over is really a pain.

Beautiful truck!

 

I have been working on a little project off and on since I put on all the X-Runner ground effects. Since my truck is part Pre-Runner and part X-Runner, I came up with a name for it "X-PreRunner" because I am getting some heat from a few people that believe very strongly about me not calling my truck an X-Runner because it is automatic. Everyone has their own opinions. I still love my truck and work every hard to make it the truck I want. I have been working on creating an emblem for this. I wanted the emblem to look like factory and look like the X-Runner Badge, so you have to do a double take to really see it or notice it. I think it is pretty darn close. This really took a lot of time to design, rework, redesign, ect. Special thanks to John at 3D Dallas Printing in Richardson Texas for all his help with this process. O nce the design was done the hard part came that I didn't see or think about ... the double sided tape to hold it to the truck but I was finally able to work out this problem too. So I am going to share some pics of this journey that has taken me off and on for over a year now. I was finally able to get this custom one-off emblem painted when I had my doors repaint.

 

Thank you. You can problem tell I am a little COD. I do take it a bit over board. But as my Dad said to me when he was still alive .. If you are going to take the time to do it, you might as well do it right the first time.

 

Thank you. I actually did think about that but the money was getting too high. It cost be right a $3K just to repaint and parts. With the door handles, body work, welding, ect... that was going to cost me another $2K from the quote I got.

 

Tough pill for door handles.

 

Your truck is definitely worthy of being called an x-runner I think. It's cleaner than almost any of the ones I see on other groups. I want to get the ground effects for my autocross truck, and I'm sure it'd get some comments for being a 4cyl reg cab with the skirts.

 

I would say "do it"... add the ground effects. It really changes the look of the truck but it is NOT cheap. I saw one picture of a regular cab Tacoma with the X-runner ground effects online and it looks nice... very unique. As long as you are happy with your truck.. that is all that matters.

 

Today is my 2 year anniversary of my Pre-Runner body being married to my X-Runner rolling chassis. Can't believe it has been 2 years, time flies when your having fun. I am super glad that I did this... worth every penny. Still working on different mods for the truck and will post them when I get them completed.