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1st gen 5 lug top brake caliper bolt stuck. Any tricks?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by bigdoghustler, Aug 12, 2022.

  1. Aug 12, 2022 at 3:25 PM
    #1
    bigdoghustler

    bigdoghustler [OP] Member

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    So I'm doing my wheel bearings and I need to get the caliper off so I can get access to the rotor and bearing hub. I got the bottom bolt off no problem with a 16 mm socket, but on the top brake caliper bolt the brake line is right in front of the bolt so I can't fit a socket on there. I've tried using a wrench and it started to strip it. I think I could get it off if I could fit a socket on there but I don't see how I could do that without removing the brake line and bleeding the system. Anybody solve this issue or see a way around it?
    Thanks
     
  2. Aug 12, 2022 at 3:32 PM
    #2
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    A crescent wrench would be worse here, it will cam the jaws open and round the head.

    There's a reason they're referred to as a "nut fucker" in some circles.

    I would try removing the clips on the brake line and gently bending the hardline back if needed to get the appropriate six point socket on it.
     
  3. Aug 12, 2022 at 3:52 PM
    #3
    SpeySquatch

    SpeySquatch Function over Form

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    well, I goofed…have a bad head cold…meant channel-lock.

    I was hoping OP could get a more precise tight grip to loosen it
     
    Key-Rei[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Aug 13, 2022 at 7:35 AM
    #4
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

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    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    I use a smooth jaw vise grip on the rubber brake line.

    Remove the hard brake line giving access to the bolt with the impact .

    Do what needs done one caliper to bleed with the vacuum bleeder finished.
     
  5. Aug 13, 2022 at 10:41 PM
    #5
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    On that single cylinder caliper everything is kinda crammed together...

    You'll have to loosen that banjo fiting and spin it a little bit.....which will almost certainly let a little air in...because you have to clear were that nipple sticks in....

    My oem flex hoses were almost 25yr, so replaced with stainless, much better design......tho it took two tries to get one long enough for rear......

    Normal Break fluid is suppose to be replace every 3 yr......after that it starts corroding metal surfaces undetected.....and then seals fail/leak right on the corroded edges.....

    You can see in these pics that one bolt that OP is talkin about is slightly rounded.....

    s-l1600.jpg

    s-l1600 (1).jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2022
    Key-Rei likes this.
  6. Aug 13, 2022 at 10:43 PM
    #6
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Shoot some penetrant and heat that 16mm a little.....
     
  7. Aug 14, 2022 at 6:06 AM
    #7
    dbittle

    dbittle Member

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    Could the OP get a flare nut wrench on it to pop it loose?
     
  8. Aug 14, 2022 at 8:20 PM
    #8
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I though about that.....the larger the flare wrench....the easier it is to strip it....
    egr temp sensor going into intake plenum is where I found this out....
    Ideal would be a six sided box.......

    I tell you ......heat and lube will do the trick.....I promise......
    I have a little mini torch from harbor freight that's a 25yr old trucks best friend......

    And I hate those old plastic brake lines......reminds me of those hoses on your washing machine.....you know the ones that break while your on vacation......
    Got rid of mine first year I got the truck.....
     

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