Factory 6MT Concerns

It's not that simple. You shouldn't have to be rough with it, but I also think shifting at 2500 is a bit low, 3K - 3.5K is the sweet spot for normal driving.

I can forgive the gearing and the accumulator, but the stock tuning is just stupid AF. Normal driving, you start in 1st, shift to 2nd, and you expect a linear feel in power and movement, but nope... dead, so you push down on the accelerator a bit more, it starts to move a little, and then, high rev and its power starts to peak, then shift to third... You stop again, and you say to yourself, I'm going to hold 1st a little longer this time. The light turns green; you hold 1st longer, go to 2nd, but it's too aggressive, and you're just high RPMing through the 4th gear... you keep doing this because it's the only way to have it move along smoothly. Then you look down at the center cluster and see your MPG is 15.5MPG.
Now add the accumulator to the equation, making you feel like you don't know how to drive an MT.

Nissan has it perfected until they stopped offering the MT. Great clutch feel, good shifter, and best of all, a nice linear power band with good low-end torque. IS THAT TOO MUCH TO ASK?? lol

 

I have a 1987 NISSAN 4WD P/U
It has the 5 MT,.. even then they had an accumulator.
That truck has seen more than half the people on this thread,... and is possible older and more educated as well.
NO its not for sale.

 

I have to agree with you on the last gen Frontier M/T. My son was interested in one and I was curious, so we both test drove it.
Very nice drive.

 

How does longevity factor into this?
It's not like we're talking about adding a blower lol.

 

The clutch can be made to perform better with upgrades (larger pressure plate and alternative materials)
Just like brakes (larger disc and pads alternative materials)

However, the stock version of BOTH friction and grip devices in a stock vehicle will not last up to hard conditions or driver needs in race / hard off road conditions.

In other words, dog the stocker and you will be dogged in wallet.
Drive the stocker like its designed and your good.
Longevity = "If you know how to drive a stick shift your good"

 

I'm not sure I follow, in the context of what I've posted in this thread.
I don't race, I don't bang shift, I don't drop the clutch nor do I ride it.
Not going to get into whether or not I know how to drive a stick, nor how long I've been doing it.. I find that kinda douchey, actually.
I simply prefer my current setup over the stock setup. Nobody is dogging on my stock Tacoma lol.

 

Yep, the stock set up is "forgiving" thats for sure.
Some would say it takes away some of the control of the pedal,... and it does.

Remember the 5 P's (6 P's) Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance (Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance)
Its like when drivers were introduced to power steering, many dislikes among racers does it give more control OR take away the "feel of the road".

Look where we are at today, if you never drove a non-power steering car you would Know nothing better,... same with the clutch.
Except only 5% of the living people can drive one and 1% of them have driven a regular (traditional) clutch system.

 

I guess I'll consider myself a 1%er then, in the context of clutches lol.

 

Just curious what you consider a traditional clutch system?

 

Types of Clutches
Following are the different types of clutches:

Traditional is the Non-Hydraulic Friction,,

 

I guess I have been driving hydraulic style systems so long I am used to them... also since I have driven cable style and pushrod style that puts me the 1% too... or just old

 

The 4 Tacoma's l have owned are the only ones with hydraulic clutches, everything else has been cable actuated.

 

I am glad to be in the 1% old group, we have done and seen more than we are willing to admit to.
Great experience's but I don't think I would do it all over again. I don't bounce as good as I used to.