Rack and pinion and ujoints for front and rear

Just got out of the dealership and they told me I needed to replace my rack and pinion. I did see that I have a slight leak on the passenger side. Wondering if this is something I can do myself by chance. They quoted me $2037 to do the job. They also stated that three of my ujoints on my driveshaft are blown going to the rear diff and that job was quoted at $1618!!! Just wanted to get some insight on everyone's opinion.

 

Find a good local mechanic. I've seen a couple of places online where you can buy a brand new rear drive shaft assembly for about $400. You could install yourself in less than a couple of hours with minimal hand tools.
Not sure about the rack, but I have seen a couple of videos on YT showing how to change one.

 

The rack can be difficult. Mostly because the bolts go down from the top. I would not at all recommend you turn them over and install them upside down like some guys have. If you do that, the bolts can fall out if they get loose.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-the-rack-and-pinion-steering-2nd-gen-v6.293781/

 

Confirm that the rack’s internal seals are leaking and that it is not oil dripping down from above. If it is leaking, I have had success significantly reducing rack/pinion leaks with ATP

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205.

The rear driveshaft in a double cab has three u-joints and a center bearing. I’m sure the quote includes all four components, but, the parts are only about $200 for good quality Spicer components.

 

As others have said, a remove/replace of a driveshaft is not difficult and can be done in a couple of hours in your driveway for far less than half the cost the dealer is quoting, even if you literally have to buy the tools to do it - even a cheap compressor and impact gun. If you don't use a complete driveshaft and instead replace the u-joints in your existing shaft, the cost is more like a quarter the quoted price or even less if you just rent a ball joint press.

A rack rebuild is significantly more complex - removal is notoriously a pain in the ass on these trucks and the rebuild, from what I have read and heard from those who have done it, is also finicky. I do almost all of my own wrenching but when I blew my rack, I opted to have a local mechanic replace with OEM and I'll be rebuilding the old one at my leisure to keep on hand for next time.