Wheel Bearing recs

I just put the brakes back on and use my pedal tool to hold it down and torque the axle nut last.

 

I don’t have a pedal tool. Or a person to step on the brakes.
I contemplated jamming a screw driver in the rotor vanes, but I had a weird feeling something would break or I’d get it stuck in the rotor.

 

Reverse the jaws so it's in spread configuration vs clamp configuration and then the tang sits on the seat and keeps it from falling, the handle jaw points up at the seat and the dumb end goes to the pedal.

I keep it in my truck toolbox as I also use it for "idling up" when diagnosing or for increasing RPM when jumping people, found it to be useful for others random things too, sometimes it even gets used as a clamp.

 

I actual have 2 of those. And I never even thought to use it like you described. Sweet!
I’ll have to remember that. Thanks

 

Yes OEM, idk mine may have been a one off or maybe the abuse I put it through who knows. All I can say is both where shot. I had play and grinding coming from both.

 

For other folks reading this who are looking to do this job, the OEM knuckle seals are out of stock on the west coast. At least they are for the time being. I ended up having to purchase the Timken version

 

This. I have almost a 100k miles on a set of eBay assemblies

 

I used Nation with food good results so far. They fit better than then ones that came with the Beck Arnley hubs.

 

How do I install the CV seal? I got the axle nut off per @Chuy ‘s & @TnShooter ’s recommendations.

I know I need to remove two bolts from the spindle to flip it upwards to slide in the CV seal…just want to make sure I’m not f’ing something up lol. Measure twice, cut once right?

 

The cv has to come out of the knuckle. Then you can pull the seal out from the back.

It has to come out from the back.

Pull the 2 bolts out from the bottom of the knuckle (under the ball joint). Then pull out on the bottom of the knuckle. The CV axle can stay in the differential. No need to take it out.

 

You da man. Thanks guys!

 

I’m trying to remember if you have two remove them two bolts to separate from the LCA … you may not have to. I know I separated the tie rod, then the knuckle may rotate enough to where you can replace that inner seal.

 

I couldn’t get the spindle out far enough to get the cv axle out. I had to remove the 2 bolt.

 

Makes sense, been a long time and part of the process is fuzzy in my head. I do remember only replacing the driver side inner seals cause they looked good and I wasn't replacing the CV axles.

 

I replaced both of mine the first time.
And 1 of them the 2nd time. And only then because I was doing the bushing in the front diff.

Personally, I would do them if they have 50k or more in them. But sometimes I don’t. I guess it depends on if I want to be lazy that day or not.

 

Just remembered these seals only have about 10k on them. I had my axles swapped out when I first got the truck, so new seals all around.

I’m going to leave them in since they’re new and in pretty good shape. I hit them with a bit of grease on the inner lip to “reseal” them.