37’s... Anyone crazy enough?

Since I just had a 3rd child and have a hard time justifying keeping this set of 5 matching 37’s on 5 beadlocks -

I’d like to trade for someone with 35’s.

Let me know what y’all got out there. I’m in Phoenix AZ. Unfortunately this has been too much of a Dad-mobile lately for me to justify keeping the setup as is.

 

Dude! I swear every thread I go into, you've said some trollish garbage, get called out and then post the same gif... over, and over, and over.

Do you plan on contributing to the conversations at some point? @YellowSnow?

 

no, I haven’t contributed anything lately…


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/295-70-17-in-spare-location.772662/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-bottle-jack-with-pads.772664/

 

Would have gladly shipped my five matching 35s to you and yours to me, but I bought new for a small fortune…damn the timing.

 

Almost 500 posts in 1+ week. Impressive. But agreed, a lot of bullshit to sift through. Just what this site needed more of…

 

Yeah, because “should I regear, can i fit 275s without rubbing, anyone got a coupon code for raptor lights” is such riveting content. 99% of the threads in here are hyperbole and banter. Don’t conflate the two.

 

1st photo, mechanical bind bump


2nd, full bump (as much as the superbumps would compress without the whole weight of the truck jumping on them). Left some good room everywhere to account for frame flex/body mount travel.


Mid tub, need to shift the body mount back like an inch sometime.


Ride height.


Still need to do the drivers side, and order up some new 37s and duals

 

Well I’ve read through all 28 pages off this post and still can’t find what I need. So I will slowly add to this my journey I am about to embark.

It looks like myself and @singletrack_ftw will be swapping wheels and tires.

Currently I’m on a Dirtking LT kit on dirtylife Beadlocks with 315’s. I’m on a -12 offset, and have no rubbing unless full bump when i jump the truck.

due to the rear suspension set up I know I’ll clear and with the 37’s only being 12.5’s i don’t think I’ll rub the rear anymore than I do now.

I’m trying to figure out how much I’m going to have to do up front.

I’m already having terrible steering issues in the rocks, so I’m going to have to address that problem.

the rack has never been my issue, mine has been the pump. I’m getting a PSC Chevy pump which should fix that issue.

axleshafts im not worried about because those are already upgraded, and I’ve never broke or bent tie rods.
Pick decent lines i guess ‍♂️

I’m curious though, going from a -12 to a -38 what issues I’m gonna run into besides being wide as hell

this is where I’m at now

 

Hey there Matt. The obvious answer to your question is the project of tubbing the inner fenders/firewall. This project I personally intended to undertake but life happens & I just don’t see myself getting it done. Removing your coilovers and bumps and cycling the wheel/tire at full bump travel and cutting away all that touches and rebuilding is what you’ll need. A really nice addition to your psc pump would be the jd fab slide rack. Seems like a no brainer with how you use your truck and your LT.

 

All of what you want to accomplish is totally doable & in another state of life I would love to do it myself. Don’t have 3 kids and try to build a rock crawler/DD

 

I would also look into the JD Fab Howe PS upgrade kit. You can get it with or w/o an external cooler. Super stoked with mine so far and very straight forward install

 

Well 37s have finally killed my 3rd Detroit locker... thinking it's time for a spool.

 

X-Posted for more suggestions:

So I think going to 37's contributed to my spindle breaking (full crack). Looking to upgrade a couple things to handle the trails I run. I plan to get my new spindles gusseted, and move onto the Tundra steering rack. Question for the group though. Are upgraded LCA a measurable increase over stock? I know UCA's are but if I can save $1000 by sticking with OEM, and being in the clear I'd prefer to do that.

 

My stock lcas were bent up near the balljoint about 1/4-3/8", mainly due to blowing through the bumps and bottoming the shock out. Other than that, they have been fine.

 

I wanted to come in and say that I’m back on 35’s, & won’t be going back to 37’s for the foreseeable future. I faced the facts, which are as follows.

1. I am a father of (now 3) children & my ability to hardcore rock crawl isn’t realistic or practical at this time in my life.

2. Costly repairs which were likely had I started rock crawling with the 37’s would be a little unfair to my family at this season of life

3. Proper tubbing is a project that I’m willing to do but could not find the time to do (see 1 & 2).

4. Even if I manage to wheel once a month or more, I do a lot of commuting and hwy driving in my truck

5. Proper steering reinforcement AINT cheap… and replacing oem racks isn’t something I want to get proficient at

6. The truck scooted around just fine with my 5:29 gears and even did hwy without drama on the beadlocks and 37’s but I found myself hesitant to take my kids in the truck on long hwy trips out of town for camping or wheeling

love all you guys, learned my lesson, sold my 37’s and scooped a screaming deal on 35’s. I am absolutely adoring how smooth the truck is right now. It feels like a Camry. What’s also nice is that since I did so much heavy heavy hammering to “clear the 37’s around town”. My 35’s have more room than ever before

 

Are they breaking when something else goes? Sounds excessive.

 

No. All three have failed due to the Allen bolts in the locker either shearing or backing out which caused the carrier to crack down thr middle. It was a surprise on the first one so on the second I used lock tight and it lasted a little longer. The third one I even tore apart at 15k miles to check all the bolts.

 

37s make life grand

 

They kind of make the front end of the 3rd gen palatable. Kind of

 

Can I ask how you got that much caster?