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35s no breaking

Discussion in 'Moab' started by Cedar's_Tacoma, Aug 28, 2022.

  1. Aug 28, 2022 at 9:18 PM
    #1
    Cedar's_Tacoma

    Cedar's_Tacoma [OP] New Member

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    Hey I'm looking at building my tacma for Rock crawling. I want to run 35s however I don't want to deal with a lot of breakage. I have looked into a SAS but it's to expensive for me at the moment. I only need a 3-4 inch suspension lift. Does anyone know of an affordable strong lift that I could run 35s on without the worry of breaking all the time?
     
  2. Aug 29, 2022 at 6:51 AM
    #2
    andrewtheadventurer

    andrewtheadventurer Well-Known Member

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    I think you have confused lift with the weaker steering components. The rack, tie rods, and CVs are weakest links. Warfab makes outer rod sleeves that beef those up but i dont know of any bandaids for the rack itself or the CVs (OEM only with maybe high angle boots but if you are crawling hard then the boots may be a waste because you will be swapping cvs often enough).

    I'd recommend doing more research before taking the plunge
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2022
    skiploder, MuddySquirrel and Chunk like this.
  3. Aug 29, 2022 at 8:25 AM
    #3
    MuddySquirrel

    MuddySquirrel Well-Known Member

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    Affordable and crawling 35s with a 4" lift are going to be a tough set of requirements to pair....

    Do you want 35s for the looks or do you feel like you need 35s to crawl?

    If it's the latter, have you hit the limits with your current truck? Either way you're going to spend some quality time under your truck with a grinder and welder, but it's going to be way cheaper to fix the things which are holding you back rather than prophylactically hitting everything which might hold you back. This is my 7000lbs glamping mobile doing the Moab Rim on 33s - your truck is surprisingly capable even without 35s.
    IMG951023.jpg

    If you want to run 35s on IFS, either for capability or because 'merica, go for it - I'd still be budgeting $5k for the cheap end.

    LT/ front suspension kits: Look at JD Fab (https://jdfabrication.com/collectio.../toyota-tacoma-95-to-04-6-lug-front-end-kit); their LT kits also move your wheels forward to cycle better. Marlin's RCLT is similar, but they don't make a 1st gen kit and JD Fab has a better rep for responsiveness on the forum. Their kit is only advertised to 33s with the fenders still in place, so cutting is still in your future for 35s.
    You can also do a drop bracket lift - it will be cheaper and get your tires away from the wheel wells, but doesn't help with your cab mounts, or increase wheel travel.

    Rear: Old school junkyard Chevy 63 swap will get you there the cheapest, but plenty of options as long as you keep your truck light.

    Like @andrewtheadventurer said, folks generally don't break their suspension, they break the assorted steering/drive components.
    RCV will be your best source for the CVs - they are decidedly not cheap though.
    Not sure about the 1st gen racks - a lot of places cut down the tundra racks for 2nd gens, but it'd be worth posting in the 1st gen section and looking at folks' build pages to see what they use.

    Regearing and lockers - You'll need to regear with 35s anyway; if you're crawling add lockers while you do this. NB, this will usually be a better bang for your buck than the bigger wheels, particularly on grippy surfaces like Moab. ECGS has a core program that will let you DIY swap the third members.

    Either way, welcome to the forum and have fun!
     
  4. Aug 29, 2022 at 8:56 AM
    #4
    desertjunkie760

    desertjunkie760 @DesertJunkie760 (IG)

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    Based off the verbiage of your post, you should take a few minutes and really analyze what you're trying to achieve. What's your budget? What's your experience in "rock crawling?" You can make a very capable rig without being so extreme that will likely suit your needs.

    Typically, when you go with a bigger tire you start creating more forces and start breaking parts. This is a generalized statement as much of this is based off driving style but overall, if you don't want to start breaking parts, 1) don't go with a bigger tire and 2) don't drive like an idiot.

    If the above doesn't appeal to you and you still want to go this route, 3) go buy an older Jeep.
     
    Brian422 likes this.
  5. Aug 29, 2022 at 9:12 AM
    #5
    Brian422

    Brian422 I fell into the pit that is TW

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    I really think driving like an idiot has the most to do with breaking parts than anything. Ive still got my original stock rack and inners on and the truck has seen more than its fair share of abuse for at least 50k miles. Rubbing factory CV double locked most of the time and never once had an issue as far as breakage but then again i don't go wide open and i really do crawl around everything so theres that.
     

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