⚠ Changed timing belt and coolant. This is what it sounds like.

The only belts I've done have been 5vz. Maybe a dozen. The only big challenges have been a couple stubborn crank bolts and one mangled keyway. I prefer chains.

 

You might be ok using that belt. I'd remove it and inspect it. This whole issue could be something unplugged like a cam sensor. Or something else other than your timing being off.

I would:
1. Set crank to TDC (0 mark on crank pulley)

2. Re-do the whole timing belt job, following the FSM or another how to.

3. Replace the tensioner at minimum. Dealer can have it in stock next day.

4. I truly recommend just buying the AISIN kit on Amazon. Will be to your door in a couple days. Unless you are selling this truck, you really want to replace that water pump while you have everything apart.

5. I hope you are using a torque wrench for this job.

 

Another thing that gets overlooked is the cam position sensor wiring. That shit rubs on the cover constantly.

 

Depending on the mileage, I would also change the cam and crank seals.

 

Your pictures really don't show anything. Take pictures of the timing marks stamped into the sprockets with the timing notches in the background. The lines on the belt are just to make installation easier and get out of whack after the first revolution. They become irrelevant after the motor spins.
Your belt should be fine just reinstall.

Recompressing the tensioner is really no big deal. If you have a vice use it, if not use a c-clamp. Go slow , apply pressure... Wait for it to give a little, apply more pressure, etc. Then stick a small Allen key in there to lock it in place and reinstall. You have to make sure all the timing belt slack is only on the tensioner side of the crank pulley. Once you got it right, release the tensioner pin then spin the motor by hand over a revolution or two and make sure your timing marks (not the belt marks) are still on before you button everything back up.

 

A timing belt job should get new cam/crank seals, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump/thermostat, crank bolt and while you're down there a new a/c idler bearing. Pre Rona, I'd rebuild the alternator just for fun. Same as a clutch, rear main seal because why not.

 

The background traffic noise sounded like an intro, then the attempted start up sounded like great turntablism… unfortunately the video ending before the drop.

 

I'm still learning.

 

I tried using a clamp. But, the pin would spin as I tightened the clamp and the hole wouldn't be aligned when it got to the bottom.

 

This is excellent advice ^^

 

Check my work. This is the belt installed without the tensioner.

 

On every vehicle I have replaced the timing belt, after installing the belt & with it tensioned, I'll rotate the engine (manually with a ratchet w/ the crank bolt installed) one full revolution (or two) then I'll check if the marks are lined up. Only after that is when I call it good.

 

Then buy a new tensioner if you can't get it pinned.

 

I did one rotation and the belt jumped one tooth...

 

Or buy this $20 tensioner tool. It's probably quicker to use this tool than removing the tensioner & compressing it. It presses against the water pump pulley & tension pulley. Check local auto parts store to see if they rent these.

$21 CTA Tools 2670 Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2670-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B00VX0ODAY

Or do you have a friend or neighbor with a vise? Or go to a local shop & ask them to compress/pin it for you.

You should still be able to do it with a c-clamp. Put a piece of wood or 2 in between to keep it from twisting (I had no idea they twist). If that doesn't work, once compressed grab it with pliers & a wrench to align it where it needs to be.

 

Again, ignore the marks on the timing belt, they're only there for helping you first put it on. You don't even need those marks, heck I don't think I've ever installed a timing belt that had them.

After rotating you align the crank mark then look at the cam gear marks to see if they line up with the marks on the cover behind the cam gears. While rotating if you go past the crank mark, don't try reversing direction, you have go all the way around again.

 

Ignore the marks on the belt after rotating, they are for installation only. What matters is that all the timing marks on the sprockets line up with the respective marks on the engine.

 

Don't look at the belt after turning the motor. Only need to line up the 2 notches circled below.

Wish I could help you out in person. Might consider paying someone to come over and help you.

 

Update:

I compressed the tensioner pin using a clamp installed it properly.

I rotated the crank twice to confirm that the marks line up.

Then, I tried to fire it up and experienced the same noise and lurching that I videoed in the 1st post.

Afterwards, I rotated the crank again to make sure the marks line up and THEY DO (the belt has moved tho, which doesny matter). Here's proof:

So,what else could be wrong?

 

I was able to get it with a welding type f clamp and a tiny drill bit.