dpele's 2010 Tacoma DCSB TRD Off-Road

New brakes!

Power Stop Z36 rotors and pads.

$216 Power Stop K137-36 Front Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors For Toyota 4Runner FJ Cruiser Tacoma 6 Lug

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005UB8X94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before / After:


Before / After:


Before / After:


Before:


After:


Before:


After:


After:

 

Here is my quick review on the Elka 2.0s:

 

So I decided to upgrade the straps on the tent.

Top strap that goes over the cover broke on me.
It was cold out and it was very weathered.



Old top strap style...



New strap is much better! And all black.



Old straps that sandwich the tent together were a weak velcro.
The 4 straps had trouble keeping the tent tightly closed when it was loaded with blankets and pillows.



Old side velcro straps.



Old side velcro straps.



New side strap style!
So much stronger and hold it closed tightly.



New side strap style.



New side strap style.
I left some strap at the top so the buckle can attach to it.
This way it won't flap in the wind and I won't hit it with my head.



All rivets needed to be drilled out; top and bottom.
It was a big pain in the ass but I think it's worth it!
There was lots to learn doing this but I think it is achievable by anyone.
Sadly I didn't get any more pictures of the install as I am terrible to thinking about getting some in the moment.



The loop that holds the ladder broke.
I fixed it by adding a larger washer and glued it all together. No pictures of final...
​

 

Finally got around to changing and relocating the trailer plug.
Very easy install and I didn't run into any issues.

I used the Endurance Hopkins 40950 Multi-Tow 7 Blade and 4 Flat Vehicle Wiring Kit:

$25 Hopkins Towing Solutions Endurance 40950 Multi-Tow 7 Blade and 4 Flat Vehicle Wiring Kit, Black

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W1O2FQ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And used the Hopkins 40985 Universal Multi-Tow Harness Connector:

$27 Hopkins Towing Solutions 40985 Universal Multi-Tow Harness Connector

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005Q87T6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Holes drilled:



Closed:



Open:



Why can't anything just match up...
The new Hopkins plug is wired the SAE Standard way and my Taco is wired the RV Standard way.
That's why some of the colours are mismatched.



I created a template for the Hopkins trailer plug. See the attachment.
Make sure you print it to "actual size" in your printing settings so it is to actual scale. You can double check by confirming the dimensions on the paper. These dimensions are "true" and I used a caliper to measure the plug.

 

New Trail Gear bolt-on rock sliders installed!
2K epoxy primer.
2-part rock guard.

I will never do this all myself again! Drilling the bolt holes was nearly impossible. The frame steel is so hard that it took so much effort and over $100 in drill bits. I should have used a mag-drill. The prepping, priming, and rock guarding of the sliders took a lot of time and effort.
At first, the installation and painting cost I got for estimates seemed very steep. Now I see why. Next time I'll be getting someone else to do all the work!

Paint booth:



2K primer:



Rock Guard:





Installed:

 

I 3D printed a mount for my UV5R.

Check it out and print it here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4978600



















I ran my external antenna below the carpet and to the glovebox. The wire sits in the glovebox when the radio isn't in the truck.
The antenna is a magnet mount and can be stored behind the rear seat.

 

Latest project!
I fabricated a rail system to mount my recovery tools on.
I used shallow unistrut and some

$36 END OF ROAD 8 piece Quick Fist Clamp Mounting Kit - 90010

quick fist mounts for the shovel and axe.
The

FIERYRED Universal Car Traction Mat - Black

traction boards are mounted with wing nuts for now.

 

New OEM TRD (smoked) headlights.
It was a hard decision to go back to OEM headlights with all the other options out there but I can't put style in front of quality and output.

The old headlights don't look so bad in pictures but I tell you there is a HUGE difference in person. The old ones were "restored" many times. They have fatigue cracks throughout the lenses.

Part #s:
81150-04173
81110-04173




Before:



After:

 

DIY hood struts!

Super happy how they turned out. I initially installed 100 lbs struts but they are way too overkill. I am replacing them with 40 lbs ones right away. Hopefully they are much better.

Here are the parts:

C16-08316 20" 40lb Per Gas Strut Shock Lift Support for RV Door Bed Storage Truck Tonneau Cover Camper Shell Rear Window and Other Heavy Duty Box Lid, Set of 2 Vepagoo

20" struts

$14 ARANA 10MM Ball Stud Mounting Bracket for Universal Gas Struts Lift Supports Shocks Spring Prop Mounts Brackets Silver 4PCS with 16 Screws (Only Fits 10mm Ball Head)

10mm ball stud mounting brackets

You could use a little longer strut if you want the hood to open higher. I wasn't interested in this because my ditch lights are close to hitting the windshield with the hood prop rod.
These are installed just like Spiker.












The driver side strut does have minor contact the fuse for my subs but I'm not worried about that.
The strut also slightly touches the brake fluid reservoir when lowering. Also not worried about that.

 

I got 4WA to rebuild my clutch. It was time.

 

I finally did the Cowl Snorkel Intake!
Overall I am very happy with the whole thing. One thing I need to change is the grommet around the 3" hole cut-out. I will need to widen the hole and put some kind of soft rubber. Maybe a bulb seal. The current hard rubber grommet is rubbing and knocking on the cowl when the engine is under load.
I drilled two 2" holes on each side of the cowl for extra air flow.

I already have plans to mount my new air compressor in the engine bay with all this room for activities.


List of materials:

• 3" OD stainless steel exhaust tube (12" long with a 15 degree cut)
• 4" to 3" 90 degree rubber elbow (I trimmed 1" off the 4" hole side)
• Rubber grommet (will be replaced with bulb seal)
• 3" hose clamp
• 4" hose clamp
• 3D printed parts
• Misc hardware

Custom 3D printed parts:

• HVAC mesh cover
• HVAC Solid cover with supports
• 3" pipe mesh insert
• Oval mesh cover
• Triangle corner mesh cover
• 2" hole mesh cover
• TRD hole cover

I am not sure if i want to post the 3D printed parts online as the design is far from perfect.

 

On-board air!

 

I just realized it probably looks like I am stalking you since I subscribed to your post a while ago and got an alert you posted it in your own thread here, the snorkle thread, and the 2nd gen what have you done today haha. Totes not a creep, promise!

 

hahaha that's funny! All good man! Glad you are liking the mods lol
I have done this to others as well... oops...

 

Ruby Falls
July 2022

 

I swapped out my camping scene lights.
I used to have 6 rock lights around the rack. I now have 4 small 2" pod lights.

Went from this:



To this:








I hope to have some night output pictures soon!

 

Have you gotten to test them out yet? I have been wanting to put lights on my rack under my tent and was looking at the rock light setup. Are the pod lights flood or spot?

 

The rock lights make a great flood light.
These 2" lights are considered a spot light. I couldn't find anything that shape and size that was a flood.
These are the lights:

$30 Adzoon Motorcycle Fog Lights, 2'' Inch 27W Spot Mini Cube Work Driving Pod Lights for Offroad Trucks ATV UTV SUV 4x4 Pick Up Car Boat

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JD8P1VV?ie=UTF8

I have tested the new 2" lights a couple times but not in great places to take pictures.

Here are the rock lights when I had them set up:

 

Rock Lights!

I finally installed my rock lights and found time to upload the results!
I installed a total of 12 lights underneath the truck.

• One light in each wheel well
• Two lights at the front
• Four lights in the middle
• Two lights in the back

Here is a diagram where the lights are installed:



Front Lights:

(mirrored on other side of truck)



Middle-front lights:

(mirrored on other side of truck)



Middle-rear lights:

(mirrored on other side of truck)



Rear lights:



(mirrored on other side of truck)



Front wheel well:

(mirrored on other side of truck)



Rear wheel well:

(mirrored on other side of truck)



Here is the final product!










Install was fun



About the wiring...
(I am not responsible if you follow my idea and anything happens to you or your vehicle)


(this was a test piece, don't worry about the exposed wire lol)


The main wire is a 14-gauge direct burial graded wire. This is consists of a red and black wire protected by a thick rubber outer shield. This wire runs from my switch panel all along my frame, creating a "U". One end is plugged into the switch panel (front driver side) and the other end is wired into a rock light (front passenger side). The wire is zip-tied along to the frame with three (3) 2ft service loops. Two loops are located in the middle of the truck on each side and one loop in the back near the spare tire. Since the wire already has a thick outer rubber, I did not protect it with a wire loom.

The wires that run to the rock lights are a 18-gauge "speaker wire". This stuff is connected together and the black and red wires can be split. This wire is used a lot for 12V lighting as well as speakers. The rock light wires and the 18-gauge wires are protected by a braided wire loom.

The rock light wires are spliced into the 18-gauge wires using a self-soldering shrink tube. I have used these many many times and I have never had any issues with them. The wire coming from the rock light seem to be 20-22 gauge.

The 18-gauge wires are tapped into the 14-gauge wire using T-taps. The taps are individually (red and black) quickly wrapped in electrical tape so they don't come apart. The taps are then both wrapped in a rubber splicing tape. The splicing tape is then wrapped in electrical tape. I think this system should be nearly 100% waterproof.

I will be covering the wires near the engine bay exhaust with a heatshield just incase they get too hot.

Here is the tapped wires (no wire loom installed yet):




Rock lights:

$26 SUNPIE 6 Pods White Rock Lights 6000K Pure White Underglow Light Wheel Wheel Well Lights for Trucks Sedans Car ATV UTV SUV Golf Cart Trailer Motorcycles

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B019ODAK26?ie=UTF8

14-gauge wire:

$39 GEARit 14/2 Speaker Wire (100 Feet) 14 Gauge (Copper Clad Aluminum) - Outdoor Direct Burial in Ground/in Wall / CL3 CL2 Rated / 2 Conductors - CCA, Black 100ft

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08R566RRS?ie=UTF8

18-gauge wire:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08X2DNNF1?ie=UTF8

T-Taps:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07PCJM875?ie=UTF8

Self soldering shrink tubes:

PREMIUM Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors 100 pcs Wire Connector Kit Electrical Waterproof Marine Automotive Solder Sleeve

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N7Q6WS7?ie=UTF8

Electrical tape (super 88):
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b00034567/

Rubber splicing tape:
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b00011942/

Braided wire loom:

$25 MGI SpeedWare Braided Split-Sleeve Wire Loom for High-Temperature Automotive Harness and Home Cable Management 25 feet (1/4")

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JQT11GX?ie=UTF8

Metallic heat shield:

TOOOPFU 4.72 hes X 71.65 hes Metallic Heat Shield Thermal Sleeve Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection（120MM X 1820MM） EX003-1820-120

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08X3QR35M?ie=UTF8

 

What size is that ammo can? I'm doing the cowl intake this weekend and I want my air hose under the hood like that. I already have my compressor in the same spot as yours.