Long Travel BS Thread

That's kinda what I'm thinking too I'm just cheap. I figured if yall would know more than me if it was just a gimmick or actually useful. Seems to be useful for multi-purpose setups which is what I'm going for.

Yeah my sway bar is gonzo, sold it with a pile of other take offs. Wife complains about street driving body roll now. It does feel sketchy if you're taking a clover-style on ramp and ramping up to highway speed.

Right now I have like 150-200lbs up front between plate bumper and winch, and I'm about to add more with skids and sliders. Currently on 6112s and 650lb springs and it feels like it barely handles the weight that's on it now. I may sell my full plate bumper and switch to a chopped version from Coastal or maybe Warfab chop with tube bumper. Or if I'm feeling ambitious build my own. I've thought about just modifying the one I have.
Either way, winch is staying. Weight is increasing. I'm broke, looking towards the future as I put my pennies in a jar. Wish I could spend 12k on my truck not my house siding...

 

No cab mount chop required with 37’s and solo XLT

 

Nice. Make sure you have a reasonably acceptable alignment and check at full compression and steering stroke.

 

It'll touch at full compression

 

Dont know if they are laughing because of the good work or laughing cause of the whole ton of crap left to do

 

Cause they know it’s not gonna be done anytime soon and I think it is

 

Haha

 

Did some rough measurements where it is sitting currently (would be a few inches below ride height) drew some 20* lines on the ground and got -3.0* of camber and +10.05 degrees of caster, that being I just threw the upper control arms in with both heims showing 2 threads.

 

So it’s me back with another stupid question.

I’m in the process of revalving/rebuilding my shocks. Any tips on the internal floating piston setup? I watched this video for some direction:

https://youtu.be/CRaOceJt12U

His was set at 4.5” or so from the outer edge. Which is where they were when he pulled them apart. I figured I’d just measure mine and keep them the same. However once apart they aren’t really close. One of them was almost bottomed out in the reservoir. The other was more like the video.

 

Fox had a chart online for that

 

Biggest thing is you don’t want the piston too close to the end cap/Schroeder valve side. Otherwise you’ll have too much oil and hydro lock the shocks. You can check this by putting a few lbs of air in the resi after the rebuild and see if you can fully compress the shock. If you can then you’re good. I’ve always just bottomed it and opted for more nitrogen volume and called it good.

 

just brought them out the IFP in the Resi and call it good.

 

i usually bottom the ifp out away from the shreader valve, them remove the valve core, fillt the shock body full, wiggle it and get the air bubbles out and when you put the shim stack and seal head the extra oil will push that ifp back some to compensate....works everytime....reinstall the valve core, air it up check for hydro lock and dead spots...if it looks good run it.

 

Thanks for the help as usual. Initially I thought that was some critical measurement that had to be within some spec. But after reading that’s not really the case. Seems to be just personal preference.

I like the idea of just bottoming it out. Must easier than getting it into a certain spot. Plus I don’t think think I have a threaded rod the right size to pull it toward the end cap anyway.

 

1/4-20 bolt on the end of some needle nose vice grips and you’re golden!

 

Oh nice. That I do have!

 

there are some applications that require the IFP being set at a certain depth but most you can just bottom out and call it good. Like @Basikbiker stated, you bottom the IFP, charge with nitrogen, bleed the air, and then remove the nitrogen to set the bearing assembly into the shock. The last step will offset the IFP enough to not bottom out when the shock is charged.

 

Another lesson learned. Was buttoning up the last shock and looked at it thinking…I wonder how the bypass tubes get filled with oil and no air.

Oops time to tear them back apart.

 

Shock mostly filled with oil, hand over the opening and turn em upside down and round and round a few times.

If you are just revalving and didn’t drain all the oil out then you shouldn’t need to worry about it

 

They are a few years old so I figured I’d just replace the oil/seals while I had them off.

I won’t lie I was a little nervous about dropping oil everywhere. Sure is a messy job.

Also I was getting ready to refill it and the shock was in the vice. I’m clamped on the misalignment shims so there’s some movement. The shock started to tip (but wouldn’t have fallen) so I over reacted and grabbed it spilling more oil everywhere.

Side note…the rear is back together. I started at 15/10 and dropped the rebound to 008 and tried using a flutter stack with all 12’s and a 10 for the flutter (used one of the old rebound shims). I need more testing but it seems a lot better so far. Right now I just have the adjusters two turns on on everything. Might need to play with the rebound a bit.

Next weekend I’m going to tackle the front. The joys of a daily driver. Have to have it running for work days.