Does my Relay wiring make sense?

Got a fridge for weekend camping trips that will be in the backseat. I already have always hot power to the center console direct from the battery controlled by a switch. I want to add a relay to that outlet to either have power from the truck battery or from an external power station with the flip of a switch. Does my scheme below work?



Note: Just for joy rides, day/weekend trips. Fridge (Iceco JP30) will not be in the truck full time. Average draw is <1.0 ah on eco-mode. Power Station will most likely be connected to solar panel when camping and stationary.

Thanks for looking!

 

Seems like it would work, just make sure to have the ground for the power station referenced to the frame.

 

I cant see any solid # on watts or amps, it looks like it peaks at 10amps. Just make sure to leave headroom. That switch is probably ok.

Also circuit protection is missing from schematic. You sound like you know what you're doing, but I'll say it anyway lol.

 

It would be an SAE type outlet on the center console. The outlet would be ground to the frame (same place the inverter is)

I believe the fridge is 38W on eco-mode and 59W on max. The power from the truck battery has a 15A inline fuse.
Hmmm, would I also need a fuse for my new outlet?

 

The problem is consumption is 59watts but on initial start of the compressor it could be more, but 15a is likely more than enough. So shoot for a 15a circuit.

As long as the sources have fuses it will be fine. You could add one at the end just to protect your relay switch though.

 

Haha! That's a dangerous statement

OK, the fridge does have a 15A fuse in it.

That's for the confirmation!

 

I would put a fuse on the hot side at the battery. That way a short to ground between the battery and the switch wouldn't set the truck on fire. The fuse at the refrigerator protects the refrigerator, but does nothing for that longish run from the battery. For example let's say that the hot wire insulation wears away where it passes through the firewall. The fuse at the refrigerator wouldn't see any voltage, so it wouldn't pop.

At least that's how I learned it many years ago wiring radios and other mobile electronics.