5Lug coilovers

Where did you get the coil spacer/retainer under the spring?

This would be a good economical way to get coilovers.

Only the shock and retainer are nessasary. No top mount or aftermarket spring. That reduces the cost quite a bit.

 

Tom @ Tundra Racing / SOS in FL. He sold them to me for $55 each. It’s the lower spring mount / perch on their lowering kit to fit over OEM X-runner Bilstein’s. But I highly recommend machining out the bottom to fit over the top adjustment collar / spring mount that come with the adjustable coil-over shock. I had mine powder coated to help keep the aluminum from corroding or corrosion away somewhat. And lots of good anti-seize.
What I like about it is the factory spring rate just goes up a little because the very bottom or about one coil of the factory spring is coil bound. Making the “Active” part of the coil spring just a little shorter & increasing the spring rate of the spring. If you research you will find that a shorter spring is stiffer than a longer spring if the spring material & size are equal. My explanation is not the best but research “coil bind” you should find a better explanation. I got the idea from this thread below so Thank @Rola2010 for the idea and thinking outside the box!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/height-and-ride-adjustable-front-shocks.717946/

 

They should, but I will know for sure when I install them.

 

Suspension Front. DJM UCA’s, Vikings, machined SOS spring perches, OE springs,. Rear, Gen. 3 6 lug leafs, right side 2” left side 1.75” machined alloy blocks (Taco lean) w/ Vikings. Mis. stainless hardware w/ polly bushings & stops. Now just need to get it aligned, weld on the factory X-runner sway-bar mounts to the diff & install the bar, have the notches welded in. Then just button up mis details. Does it ever end?

 

Got some coil over mounts and ride tech rear shocks for sale of anyones interested.

 

Finally got the rear finished…

 

so I'm not sure if I just missed the info or not, but will the qa1 coilovers without the djm control arms just leave it around stock height?

 

You can drop approximately 1.5” without the arms. Any lower the alignment can’t stay in specs. Plus this will vary from truck to truck. Toyota is not making watches but body on frame truck. In other words some can about 1 1/4” and some state they can get 2” but I personally think they are Bull Shitting Or can’t read a tape measure!!

 

I've been looking for something like this for the better part of a year now. I was messing around on this website for at least a good 2 hours before I found this thread. You folks are a god send!

 

I highly recommend the upper control arms and having DJM press in the ball joints!!
Why? Sadly there Quality control is not the best! I took a pair I purchased to a Toyota specialist to have ball joints pressed in and the shop went through two ball joints trying to press them in. The technician showed me the hole was not completely round‼️
I purchased Moog ball joints from Amazon and had Amazon deliver to DJM. Kathy is very nice to work with just ask her nicely! I’m dropped about 2 1/4” and I’m just about in the middle of the concentric adjustment washer. I could go lower but I’m running a 235/50-19” tire on the front and if I bottom out the front suspension it will knock out the front fender well liner even with the bump stop set. I got caught up in the middle of a bunch of Tractor Trailer trucks going across NM in high winds and being trapped in I didn’t see a pothole that ripped the steering wheel from both my hands. This almost completely ripped out the fender liner and I can’t believe it didn’t bend the wheel or blow out the tire. Truthfully I believe it only ripped out the plastic clips! I’m very glad I’m running a 28.25” tall front tire. The rears are 28.65” tall with a 3.73 rear gear w/ the Magnuson supercharger. With the LS Swap w/ 3x the torque & double the HP I went back to the 3.31 gear, a TrueTrec w/ the Tremec TKX trans.

 

How did the notch workout. Did it help eliminate the bottoming out? What size blocks are you running?

I did the 4x4 leaf's like you suggested and wow what a difference. I am currently on 4x4 leafs and 1"1/2 block and low pro bump stops.
I occasionally bottom out from time to time. I would like to notch the truck and lower the rear another inch. But I am so hesitate on cutting the frame.

Also, I saw that you are running the DJM upper control arm in the front. I this due to the stock upper control arm rubbing against the strut base?

Sorry didn't mean to thread jack. Thanks in advance

 

No problem!
The notch makes for an absolutely beautiful ride. 6 lug springs and 2” blocks.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND welding in the DJM notch and it’s worth every penny to hire a professional welder! There are many here on the site!! Just ask in your local area For Sale or Trade section or the BS section.

Running the DJM UCA to save my tires‼️ Read my post above yours. There’s no issue with rubbing on the UCA that I know of. I’ve had many people say I’m wasting money but I don’t have half of what a TRD Pro would cost plus when I pull into a dealership to go get parts there’s a big crowd of sells people looking my truck over! I had one asked if I wanted to trade it in. There was a new fully loaded gloss black TRD Pro with balloons tied to it. I just smiled and pointed at the TRD and said “Sure you give me 20 grand and that black TRD Pro free and clear and I give you the free and clear title to this one.” I then reached inside pulled the hood latch propped the hood open and walked away as I set the alarm. That was when it the Magnuson supercharger on the 2TR.


I just had someone give me brackets for 6 lug disc brakes. He said see if you can use these for the five lug brakes. I’m going to get Lexus rear rotors and FJ calipers and see if they will fit. Then use line lock for parking brakes.

The only hold up on the LS Swap truck is the drive by wire gas pedal is not working. Andy has checked everything he can. So Andy sent everything back to the gentleman who sold me the wiring harness w/ cruse and other custom touches, PCM, Tac module and pedal to check everything over to make sure all the wires were running the correct way. After I get the truck back home I found a TiG welder that going to weld a mandrel, 304 Stainless, exhaust system using three magnaflow mufflers w/ high flow cats to keep it nice and quiet.

Sorry to get off track but I’m so excited… My bucket list is about to be completed.

 

I'm running a very similar setup, and I can concur with hayrider. The notch is a must if you want to go lower. Absolutely have it welded in, the bolts alone aren't sufficient for the stresses the frame deals with.

As for the DJM arms up front, I'm running them as well, it allows the truck to be lowered without compromising on suspension geometry with the factory arms. I got the chance to drive a lowered 2nd gen with factory arms and the bump steer was pretty noticeable imo. I like the way your truck is turning out! Been watching since you first posted about the color matching

 

Getting to refresh my front end djm drop.

waiting on Eibach springs then going to figure out ball joint install.

got 8 years 140,000 on my first set up. Blew a coilover, ball joints making noise now and most boots torn

 

When I first installed / truck . 2015

 

What spring rate are you looking for? I have 3 or 4 sets of 2.5” x 12” new springs all under 500#.

I have a set of 550# Hypertech coil-over springs. I’ve been saving for @BananaMan when he decides to change out his half frozen and over sprung coil-overs. Come on BananaMan with a set of proper spring rate coil-overs and a X-runner rear sway we can get that reg. cab 5 lug to rip the Auto Cross course, with the fat meats you’re are running for rubber.

What BananaMan needs below.

The springs below are 10” springs, the shocks called for 10” or 12”

 

im going 550lb again. I could reuse my other springs but bought some new ones.

 

Hmmm…
Some of the BEST coil-over springs are the two below. And 550# is pretty firm in an Access cab with a 2TR. I had 525# and I think the OE springs on the Tundra Racing coil bind (increased spring rate) adapters ride far superior! Plus I was thinking adding the 6 lug leaf springs (stiffer than the 5 lug springs) w/ the X-runner rear sway would make the regular cab over steer but it’s pretty neutral w/ just a touch of understeer.

https://www.swiftsprings.com/

https://www.hypercoils.com/coil-over-springs

 

mine were great . Don’t think 25lb would be much difference . Keeping what has worked for me.

now going to redo the entire process I did 8 years ago plus some extra parts . It’s needed