Need a quality lift on and off road for added weight and tires that don’t rub on my 2022 trd

So I would like to get a suspension lift/leafs for a little more weight payload and new tires I do not want any rubbing and I don’t want to cut anything idk what size to go with for bigger tires i’d like to keep the safety sense working for warranty I’m gonna be deep in the woods and off road exploring/hunting and camping in remote places and also driving highway so I’m open to opinions with experience I appreciate all your time!

 

Welcome to TW. The search function is your friend. This is probably one of the most commonly asked questions. You can start here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/wheels-tires.15/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/suspension.18/

 

Why not stay stock size and just switch to a real AT?

 

that a possibility you don’t think it would look a little funny with a lift?

 

You could always just put some sand bags in the bed, that would give you a little more weight.

 

haha that would certainly add more weight that’s for sure what I was trying to say is a suspension lift/ leaf spring upgrade to handle a higher payload for my overland gear

 

OME, good stuff and economical

 

The two most popular budget friendly spring packs are ARB OMEs and Icon RXTs

super budget would be an add-a-leaf to the OEM leafs

I like the versatility of the RXTs

as far as suspension there’s a ton of options based on your budget, the cheapest quality option would probably be bilstein 5100s or OME Nitros

Tire size maxes at 265/75/r16s before you get into Chopsville, USA.

popular ATs include Wildpeaks, KO2s, Duratraks, General Grabber, etc - just look at the tire forum people will die for their choice

 

Lift size <2” is generally ok - lift =<3” is pushing it, lift >3” generally introduces a lot of problems that require addressing

Also, lift does NOT allow for bigger tires it’s the same all around until you start modding

 

On a brand new truck, why not just go with the Toyota Pro lift and maybe use an AAL instead of the factory block?

This way you’d at least keep your warranty and not have any hassle.

Once the truck is out of warranty, then I might look at a more aggressive aftermarket lift.

 

that’s a very good idea the factory lift is only 2 inches right? and what are you guys running for tires got a pic of your trucks stance?

 

I think it's a 2"/1" - which will level your truck. It's a collar/block lift though which isn't going to be as nice as a true spring lift, and as said earlier, won't help you with weight, you'd need an AAL for that. And TBF toyota isn't going to decline your engine warranty because you have an aftermarket lift, you'd potentially get into issues if you have suspension related problems, but that's all pretty easy DIY stuff anyway. If it really does matter to you, you'll likely spend $2k for a $500 lift -

 

Lifting does not allow for bigger tires? many run larger tires on stock wheels without aftermarket UCA's that they would never be able to run without the lift lol

 

The OEM 2/1” lift will be counterproductive to carrying weight because your bed will sit 1” lower in relation to the front than it is now, unloaded. So when you do load it up, your truck will be squatting. The OEM lift is also about 4xs overpriced for what it actually is, like roboturner mentioned. You can fit 265/76r16s (almost 32s) or tall skinny 33s - 255/85r16s with zero lift and no rubbing as long as you use the stock wheels (or aftermarket wheels with the same offset and width as the OEM wheels, which are +25mm). Lift doesn’t stop bigger tires from rubbing, it just puts the tires farther away from where they are still going to rub when it flexes. So you either need to make room by cutting/chopping, or don’t go bigger than 265s/255s.

Suspension lifts don’t void your warranty unless it’s a suspension problem, so there’s really no reason to pay out the ass for an OEM (rear block) lift with Bilsteins, when you can get some Bilstein 5100s and a 1.5” AAL for ~$500 and have a better lift, that will actually support carrying extra weight. I have an AAL in the rear with a simple .5” top spacer in the front (which = 1” lift because of the geometry involved), and it works perfectly for me and cost under $250 total (no installation cost because I put it on myself). The front top spacer is fine for a small 1” lift, but if you want more than 1”, go with 5100s or similar.

This is what 1” all around looks like (my camper shell sags the 1.5” AAL to 1” in the back) with 265/75R16s. My setup will get me anywhere reasonable (not full on rock trails, but anything under hardcore).

 

^ yup

 

Rubbish. The lift on the way the Tacoma suspension works does NOT allow for any larger tires than stock suspension.
well if you are simply looking to pose and don’t actually use that suspension, what a lift will do is allow for more suspension articulation before it rubs. But it does NOT eliminate the rubbing the OP asked for.
If you don’t want rubbing, a lift will not allow for any larger tires than stock suspension. (I am ignoring those 6” lifts, as they work differently to the normal 1 to 3” lifts)

 

Y’all need Jesus

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_68Hc8GtLko

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l1tTelhdEiM&t=0s

 

I do not mean to sound like a jerk, I am just genuinely curious on this subject. I've know guys who went up to 275's and had rubbing off road. Lifted 2" and no rubbing what so ever off road or flexing. I just don't think stating that lift will not allow for any larger size tire is a completely true statement.

 

Toytech 2.5 BOSS series. It's complete. It's awesome.

 

I’m sure the video’s posted in this thread will say the same as I’m about to write. But this is the reason.
The lifts we are talking about here (ie non spacer lifts), do not actually change the full wheel travel, ie the lowest and highest point the wheel can reach in the suspension travel is identical. What they do change is where the wheel sits within that range under normal load. So these type lift kits, will increase the up travel, but reduce the down travel. (Which is another problem for a seperate thread). So the fact that the full wheel articulation from lowest point to highest point has not changed, means that if a tire rubs before the lift, it WILL also rub after the lift. This is why people correctly say a lift makes absolutely zero difference to what tire size you can fit.
Where people “think” they are better off, is after a lift, the wheel has to move further before it rubs, so many believe they have fixed the rub problem when all they have really done is move it to a point it’s less lightly to happen. But less lightly to rub is NOT good enough IMO, and it’s definitely not “it doesn’t rub”.