Door lock alternatives?

I have a manually operated door look. No matter how many times I try to clean out the lock cylinders and linkages, it keep jamming. On summers, it take me a whole minute fiddling with the lock to get it to open. In winters, I've had to crawl in through the rear windows. I've also come close to bending my key.

Are there any universal fit aftermarket door locks you can recommend? I don't care if I have to make small mods to the door frame and door. Or would you recommend complete door disassembly for cleaning and cylinder replacement?

 

Strange, I still have the original door locks on my 1996 4x4 after 26 years and 414,000 miles with no issues. Did have to replace the keys as they were worn out. Also replaced the gas door lock cylinder a year or so ago.
Don't know why you would be seeking an aftermarket over OEM.

 

are you spraying anything in the locks? is someone messing with your locks/trying to break in?

 

I did WD-40 a few times. Followed by brake cleaner to get the gunk out. No breakin attempts afaik.

 

I would only use a dry lube in the keyway. Anything else will gunk it up. You can have a locksmith take a look.

 

The original lock setup all uses good quality parts. Sounds like you haven't found the problem yet that yours has. Like others have said, only use lubricants that are suitable for locks; not WD-40.

A few possible factors come to mind with a key not turning the lock:

A. The key is wearing out and not engaging all the pins anymore
B. The lock cylinder itself is seizing up
C. One of your linkages are bent and causing it to bind up somewhere

Disconnect the linkage from the back of the lock and see if it moves freely with the key afterward. If so, the problem is in your linkages or the latch itself. If not, its probably either A or B listed above.

 

LPS-1 is your friend when it comes to locks

 

WD-40 is not that good for that you would probably have better luck with anything else. I’ve had a number of locksmiths recommend Triflow to me.

 

Before you pay anyone to diagnose or replace the lock cylinders or go tearing things apart, I'd rule out the worn key scenario. You can get a new key cut by VIN from a local dealer for a couple bucks, if you're stilling having issues that will rule out the key being the issue.

 

Mr. Bean.

 

You can swap the ignition, and both door tumblers out relatively easily. I’d try to find a used lock set, or buy a new one.

 

That's an excellent suggestion and something I have done in a similar situation.

My original key for my first gen only vaguely resembled my VIN cut key it was so worn down.

 

For me, I had an issue having a key cut to the OEM key code, though this happened on my Nissan. The tumblers were so worn down they wouldn’t accept the new freshly cut key. The dealer had to grind the key a ton to where it appeared worn out to work at all.

 

My Uncle has a Tundra with 500k+ miles, you can pull the key right out with the ignition in run, I discovered this when they keys with a million other key fobs and junk on it flew right out of the ignition when I made a hard left turn.

The key and cylinder are so worn you can start it with effectively any key or 1/4" wide 1/8" thick flat bar.

 

@Sperrunner had a 1985 Toyota Townace that had a cylinder so worn out, you could start it with anything. I’ve started that van with a quarter, my house key, a flathead screw driver, and even just asking it nicely to start. No security whatsoever.

 

A strong breeze could turn that van on

 

If the key turns but doesn't unlock its a linkage problem. Typically the latch wears out.

I've had success taking the latch out and bending the arm that connects to the outside handle. Also slightly bending the lock rod to create a little more tension.