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Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by fareast1, Sep 3, 2022.

  1. Sep 3, 2022 at 4:32 PM
    #1
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Rob
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    So, Here is my initial list of tasks to complete with the new to me 2009 Taco.

    Replace
    Left front axle (split in the CV boot)
    While I am in there:
    -Change the Bearing and hub, (both sides) will use the services of 05Taco4x4
    -Complete the 4runner brake mod, since I have 17" wheels and the calipers look knackered
    -replace the rear shoes, drums and piston.
    replace sparks, fuel and air filter, oil, front and rear differential, transfer case, trans fluid, brake/clutch and power steering.
    coolant looks new, I will do that next time.

    I can tell you the spindle nut is gonna be a bear. I tried to break it loose today and ended up breaking my wife's favorite broomstick instead. > I was trying to use it as a cheater bar extension on the breaker bar. <


    What else should I be planning to do?

    Thanks in advance,


    FE1
     
  2. Sep 3, 2022 at 5:09 PM
    #2
    AJKlug1

    AJKlug1 Well-Known Member

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    Full sound system, 3rd gen OR suspension, pro headlights & more
    I would start by replacing your wife’s favorite broomstick along with an apology:rofl:
     
    Swb_05, CTSpruceMica, Delta09 and 6 others like this.
  3. Sep 3, 2022 at 5:44 PM
    #3
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    HA! you are right about that AJ. Although, she has not been flying it as much since COVID.
     
  4. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:34 AM
    #4
    Geeves77

    Geeves77 Well-Known Member

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    3 inch Icon lift with UCA’s
    ECGS bearing swap
    New breaker bar
     
    OffroadToy likes this.
  5. Sep 4, 2022 at 5:56 AM
    #5
    AJKlug1

    AJKlug1 Well-Known Member

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    :eek:
     
  6. Sep 4, 2022 at 8:12 AM
    #6
    Leomania

    Leomania Well-Known Member

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    All stock, baby!
    Check the vent line on the transfer case actuator. If yours is original, it is probably splitting at the ends. You can probably cut an inch off or so and use a right angle vacuum joint to add in a short bit of vacuum line.

    Take off the serpentine belt and check the idler and tensioner pulleys. If they keep moving for more than a few revolutions when you give them a spin, the bearings are insufficiently lubricated and replacement is recommended.

    Check the U-joints, lube ‘em up if they’ve got zerks. Check the center bearing to see if it’s getting sloppy in its rubber mounts or not. A little up-and-down play is normal, a lot indicates time for replacement.

    Rear diff breather relocate mod. Cabin and engine air intake screen mods.

    Do read up on that big brake mod, you may find it necessary to upgrade the master cylinder and booster to get full benefit from it. Lots of discussion about this in various posts.

    And most importantly, remember to get out and enjoy your new Tacoma!
     
    winkel likes this.
  7. Sep 4, 2022 at 11:58 AM
    #7
    deanosaurus

    deanosaurus Caveman

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    While you're doing your front you might consider replacing the brake dust shields if they're eaten up or POR-15 them to extend their life if they're still good enough.

    Also while you're in there, get a good look at the knuckles where the LCAs mount and the body mounts as well - again, might be worth cleaning them up and painting them while the wheel wells are relatively empty.

    I'd also check out your door seals to see if they're worth replacing. I see you also have an 09 AC - I found that I had a lot of wind noise solved with the updated door seals as well as taping over the holes behind the triangular covers for the mirror mounts on the door interiors.
     
  8. Sep 5, 2022 at 5:56 AM
    #8
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Thank you Geeves, exactly what I was looking for. I would have cried if I had done the axle swap only to have to turn around and go right back in there for these needle bearings I didn't know about.

    Breaker bar is fine, broomstick just a but shorter.
     
    Steves104x4 likes this.
  9. Sep 5, 2022 at 5:58 AM
    #9
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Thank you Leomania and deanosarus, my to do list is getting a bit longer. But, some the things you had described I am experiencing. Just hadn't gotten around to figure it out yet. Much appreciated.
     
  10. Sep 5, 2022 at 6:04 AM
    #10
    Taco-Grinder

    Taco-Grinder It's all part of the adventure.

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    Just replace the broom.
    Don't tell your wife.
    You may get :smack:

    :rofl:
     
    Leomania and AJKlug1[QUOTED] like this.
  11. Sep 5, 2022 at 10:07 AM
    #11
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Has the truck lived in an area where they use road salt? How many miles on it?
     
  12. Sep 5, 2022 at 11:38 AM
    #12
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    New to me, but seems to have lived in Pennsylvania its entire life. 225k on the clock, motor seems solid. Frame had some surface corrosion, but I did not see anything else.
     
  13. Sep 5, 2022 at 12:04 PM
    #13
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Ok, that's a big plus. I'd also suggest inspecting / lubricating (with Fluid Film) you Intermediate Steering Shaft - particularly the universal joints. When these get rusty, your steering will go "loose / tight / loose / tight" because the universal joints are shot.

    You might also consider an alignment to see if the camber bolts in the lower control arms are seized. If they are, you'll end up needing new LCA's as well as new camber bolts. Once they're seized, there's very little chance of freeing them up.

    Finally, get the whole frame - particularly the box sections up near the cats - Fluid Filmed (or similar product) to prevent the frame from corroding further. You're outside the window for a frame replacement, so taking care of what you have is the best course.
     
    winkel likes this.
  14. Sep 6, 2022 at 2:13 AM
    #14
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Appreciate the insight too stroked. Will do!
     
  15. Sep 25, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    #15
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Just finished bleeding the brakes for the sixth time after replacing front and rear. (to be fair, I did let the resivoir go dry once, so that was the 5th)
    Anyway, just couldnt get the right feel in the pedal that I wanted. Then, from the murky depths of my so-called memory came this-

    Damnit!
    100% right Leomania. Going to the larger calipers requires a larger bore MC to move the additional fluid.

    Welp, guess booster and MC are now on the todo list as well. Going to be a practically new truck when I am done. Tires, wheels, brakes, needle bearing, front axles, fluids... - check.
     
    Leomania[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Sep 25, 2022 at 6:46 AM
    #16
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    One of the first things I did was spray the recommended fluid film anywhere I could get to.

    Now I am thinking I was a bit too liberal. Just waking past the truck I seem to get that stuff on me, and if you haven't noticed it smells pretty bad.
     
  17. Sep 25, 2022 at 7:02 AM
    #17
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    Speaking as one who has used the stuff for years, I don't find the smell objectionable, but that's a matter of personal preference. As for the product kind of making a mess, yes, that is a downside. However, I'll take that working on that kind of mess to trying to work on a rusted solid POS any day of the week. Speaking form over 50 years of experience working on vehicles in the heart of the rust belt.
     
  18. Sep 25, 2022 at 7:12 AM
    #18
    fareast1

    fareast1 [OP] Member

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    Okay not ‘gear oil’ bad more of a ‘living with sheep’ kind of bad.

    And living in/around/on salt water I agree. Anything I can do to slow corrosion!
     

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