2015 Supercharged TRD OR Pro Clone

Continuing on from @crashnburn80 's build, this thread will outline how I've tailored it to my uses of a lightweight camper mostly used for weekend trips and a few longer trips each year.

I don't daily drive this (I ride my bicycle, public transportation instead and sometimes drive my partner's Subaru crosstrek), but efficiency is still paramount.

tl;dr:

• Upgraded 27lb TRD Rock Warrior forged wheels with 21lb FN Countersteer Type X 17x8" wheels (same tires
• Removed rock sliders (dropped ~120lbs)
• Removed 3rd gen OEM roof rack (installed OEM trim)
• Added Vagabond Drifter from my 1st gen (added ~315lbs with mattress)
• Added 10AWG marine wiring along frame to battery and into the bed to power Dometic CFX50 fridge off the 27F AGM (no secondary battery)
• Installed a Mountain Hatch to make tailgate flat and easier on the knees getting in and out
• Installed BedRug
• Installed @Anderson flat antenna cover to have clearance for camper overhang (OEM Shark Fin too tall)
• Removed RCI aluminum skid plate since it doesn't cover the LCA cams
• Installed OEM 3rd gen TRD PRO 1/8" aluminum skid since it provides more coverage
• Removed OEM leafs and Icon 3-leaf AAL
• Installed Dobinsons 112 leaf pack (to compensate for the extra load of camper with bikes/gear)
• Swapped out 2.5" supercharger pulley for the 2.6" for slightly less boost for more longevity
• Fog light upgrade: Diode Dynamics SS3 PRO selective yellow with clear lenses
• Boring things:
  • WeatherTech floor liners
  • CoverKing neoprene seat covers
  • MESO Gasshole
  • center console/glovebox organizers [removed ConsoleVault]
  • Covercraft custom fit windshield reflector
  • Custom cut Reflectix for side cab windows
  • Fluid film (frame, inside LCAs, etc)
  • UltraGauge MX 1.4
  • RS Designs cupholder insert
  • Removed seatbelt chime with Techstream
• Purchased spare ECU and had @JustDSM verify that it had the TRD tune & program my VIN to it (backup/stock supercharged tune for Baja in case of bad fuel, etc)
• Purchased used ThinkPad, HP Tuners MPVI2, Tactrix cable

TODO

• Install new "military" battery terminals (need correct gauge terminals for OEM wiring)
• Install cleaner +12V taps to connect accessories to (NOCO battery charger, Ultimate headlight wiring harness)
• Swap leaking plastic intercooler reservoir with @mightytacoman Aluminum intercooler reservoir
• Swap to spare ECU and program immobilizer to recognize my G-keys
• Buy one more spare G-Key and program to both ECUs
• Install Speed Bleeders to front brakes & rear drums to facilitate faster brake bleeding (Can use Techstream to initiate the electronic TRD OffRoad brake booster to pump for me)
• Spiker Engineering hood struts
  
• Maintenance
  • Supercharger nose oil change
  • New DENSO plugs
  • @mightytacoman cam gears with 3-degree exhaust retard
• Overland Tailor Tune - based on OTT, customized to my truck after logging/remote tuning session
• Sell and get a RAV4 Prime, which is faster and gets 40+ mpg…

 

TRD Supercharger Intercooler pump 12V tap for relay

I relocated the TRD Supercharger intercooler pump wiring. The installation documents for the Dealer Installed Option (DIO) TRD Supercharger have a yellow wire running into the main fuse box in the engine bay and a piggyback fuse tap off the 10A EFI fuse.

The main downside to this on a 2.5 gen with the SAIS system is that this circuit cycles on frequently for HOURS after the truck is shut off, which in turn, turns the intercooler pump on for about 15 seconds. This is highly visible when tracking battery voltage with the bluetooth monitor I have and problematic since I don't run a secondary battery and have a Dometic fridge turned on for trips (off otherwise and fuse pulled for no parasitic draw since there is no mechanical on/off on the fridge, but a software controlled power button).

Since I already have the @nd4spdbh Anytime Fog Light mod performed, I decided to utilize this 12V DC Ignition source for the intercooler pump essentially to ONLY run when the truck was running.

Process
First I removed the 10A EFI tap and clipped the wire a few inches back so I could reuse the fuse tap in the future.

I then pulled it back out of the wiring loom just outside where it goes into the fuse box.



I then extended it with some red 18AWG wire with enough extra length to run under the large fuse box and then along the existing loom into the secondary fuse box that houses the AC/DC relay and the fog light relay. BONUS: I used the some Toyota pigtail butt connectors with waterproof/sealing heat shrink that came from the shop when they thought my 7-pin towing harness wiring was bad and they supplied me with a pigtail kit to replace those.



I ran it into the bottom of the secondary fuse box and through the circular hole in the middle to access the top. I then shortened and terminated this wire with a piggyback terminal to share the tapped port from the AC/DC relay that provides the 12V DC Ignition source.











I then cleaned everything up, ran new loom on the extended line underneath the fuse box to protect it and zip tied to follow existing loom so I don't have extra trouble accessing/moving things around with a rat's nest.



All cleaned up!

 

Claimed for future…2

 

Claimed for future…3

 

Claimed for future…4

 

Claimed for future…5

 

Nice! Lots of changes, big improvement on the wheel weight. Disabling the SC pump when the truck is off... you'll miss out on the truck randomly talking to you while you are in the garage.

 

Thanks.
I definitely won’t miss the intercooler pump going off in the silence of the desert like every night if my Canyonlands trip this past March.
I’m actually surprised that it took me just about two years after getting the truck from you to get around to this.

 

I never got around to it for years till I created the sale listing.

Now I work to document it all from the beginning. It is as beneficial to yourself as it is to others.