6 speed shenanigans. RA60F swap to RC62F

My clutch that I’m running currently is made by Spec. It’s their 3+ model if IIRC. To be perfectly honest, I’m not a big fan of it. The biggest issue I have with it is the extreme weight of the clutch disc.

Honestly, in your situation, (mostly stock. non-boosted) I suggest you go with an OE factory Toyota clutch disk and pressure plate for a 3rd gen truck. It will bolt right up to your existing flywheel no problem. Use the factory (RC62F) release bearing and hardware that belong to your new RC62F transmission.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-2gr-clutch.777557/

I have been noticing the same, URD pulled all their stuff it seems.
I have a bit of info in this one I started.......

 

I am leaning toward OE replacement for my 2nd gen with 130k. Any input from yourself or others in this thread?

As a non-update on summit and the new part number for the piston, i have called them once a week, and they say they are still working with tilton to either reactivate the old part number or activate the new one we've talked about. They said they sent and urgent note to tilton and would call me or email me back today.

 

I did the conversation the earlier part of this summer. Mine is a non-boosted motor with 230k. Love the swap, I did a lot of things at once, RC62, 4r t-case, 4wd conversation. Can’t really say MPG went up much. On the open hwy at 75 c/c a normal tank mileage is 340. I did some math the other for MPG but can’t recall off the top of my head what is was before versus after.

I will say I plan on swapping to 3.91. Sixth is a bit high to almost always pull when going up minor hills in the road. Based on the math it will brings the R’s up a small amount but less then the RA trans.

 

Wow... that's quite a bit and why a 4runner tease vs fj or tacoma? Well I'm lucky to get 300 miles out of a tank with mine( I do tend to stay in the 75-80ish range most times) so 340 or close to that would be nice to see. Keep us updated on any more that you do that helps( ie regear axles etc.)

 

When looking at the diff gear for the 3rd gen manual, they are 4.3 factory .
So that should tell you that your factory 3.73 are to small. If you have over size think about 4.88 or or higher depending on tire size. If tires are stock think close to 4.3 ratio. My food for thought.

 

I went with a Luk standard weight flywheel and a Spec stage 1. My biggest gripe with the spec is the so called "Kevlar squawk" while feathering 1st or reverse. Very annoying sound when it makes the noise.
Running the Tilton HRB conversion seem to have taken away any extra effort needed from my leg to disengage the clutch from whatever if any added poundage to the stage 1 pressure plate. In other words I have Stage one but it feels lighter on the pedal then the stock Luk clutch did. I posted in BillDaCat8's other thread regarding the Tilton HRB that it reminded me of 88 4runner clutch.

 

Nice @offroadtoyboy . I didn’t realize that you had done this swap already. I tuned out TW for a while. Had/have other things going on that don’t involve the truck.

I suppose I haven’t really considered the differences between my boosted truck and one that is relatively unmodified in regards to this swap. My truck has had the blower for so long that I don’t really pay much attention to how different it is from a stock truck anymore.

Consider this, if you need to downshift your RC62F into fifth gear to climb a hill. You are actually downshifting into the exact same ratio that was your sixth gear with the RA trans.

I do remember always wanting another gear on the highway with the old RA trans. Especially when I had the stock wheels and tires on it. When I went to the tires I have now 285/60/18 which are roughly 1 inch taller than the stockers, I definitely could feel a difference. But, it was not enough. For me, the largest, and easiest to change “gearing” factor is your tire diameter. So, like with any vehicle, if you are running a considerably larger tire, a gearing change can definitely help. I would go so far as to say that that would be even more important on a truck that is making less power. I want to say, if memory serves me correctly, that the third GEN trucks that use the RC62F are geared from the factory with 4.10 gears. So, consider that sort of a “baseline” when choosing your new ratio. If you plan to run a large diameter tire, you may want to consider going to an even lower (higher numerically) gear for your diffs.

What size tire are you running now? Is that where you plan to stay? Where is the majority of your driving?

 

Yes I could go to the 4.30’s if I wanted to have the same or higher engine R’s at 75 mph as I had with the RA trans. Kind of defeats the purpose in having a better 6th ratio to have good cruising speed at a lower RPM.

 

I just double checked this. Third gens come either 4.30 ratio on the manual trans trucks and 3.90 on the auto trans trucks. My memory ain’t what it used to be.
Anyway, what I said before stands. Now that you’re running the RC trans, consider the 4.30 your baseline if you’re gonna re-gear.

 

BillDaCat8, yes I did the swap back in June, which is why I had thanked you in the Tilton HRB thread you started. I do recall you adding a post about having other life events that had happened, may have been over shadowed by that.

I went into the project having a good feeling that i might have to swap gears, mostly on experience and running the math. I have an 8% hill next to my house that brings you from 4500 ft to 7500 ft in elevation. To hold 70ish on the RA trans i could hold 6th for a good little bit but then have to drop down to 5th for most of the way.

I ran the numbers between 3.73, 3.91, 4.10, and 4.30 with the RC compared to the stock RA setup to see were everything landed.
this site was fun to use to look at different shift point ect. https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear

I am running 265/75/R16, BFgoodrich ko2. Its an all around truck, daily driver, back tails for wood cutting, towing whatever i need ect. Tires will stay pretty much the same, I have thought about going to a R17 for the TRD PRO gunmetal rims but that will not change the height or width of the tire.

 

BillDaCat8,
Here are some pictures from my swap

 

May have already been addressed, but what hydraulic throw out set up are you using?

 

So, I went back and found that post where you had thanked me. Looking at the date, yes. I was not in very a good place at that point.

Anyway, if you took any pictures while you were doing the swap, please post them up here. If you have any tips or observances that I may have left out. Please, also put them up here.

I’m curious as to how you went about modifying the floor. When I was going through that part on my truck and sharing here, people seemed to be hung up on that part the most. Perhaps the way you went about it would be a more popular way to do it. Also, what shifter are you using? How does it look inside the truck? Oh, I found it. That looks super nice dude. I’d love to go to the FJ AWD transfer case. At the time I was doing all of this, I couldn’t find one anywhere with the exception of a few that had a bazillion miles on them. After @rheath08 experience with his high mileage t-case, I didn’t want to chance it.

I’m seeing a post about changing the ends of the hydraulic lines coming off of the HRB. Any pics of that? Were they still long enough to get your speed bleeder bracket bolted up? Or did you have to make a little extension piece or something?

 

That’s funny. You were typing this post as I was typing a post asking for pictures. Lol.

 

its a Tilton like the OP used.

 

lol.

to your other post to give me a little bit and I’ll try and put up my opinions or problems that I ran into.

 

Not sure if I should add this here, so feel free to delete.
My FJ t-case I had I pop out of high gear and the stock shifter would be locked into place because it was in the shaft for lock still. It would only happen on deceleration while in gear.
I replaced the detent balls and spring, the hi low synchro ring, the 2 circular springs and 3 keys. And seals. The t-case has been good since. A little over a year now. The repair was not hard or bad. If you have done the t-case swap for a 4x4 manual to the FJ then you could fix what I had to go through. If you need new planetary or center diff in the t-case might as well buy a new case. I think the pricing for new at that time was about $2600 and the center diff was $1500.
I would say if you go the route of used get a warranty on it or just replace the small wear parts. Seals, main bearings, and the parts I listed above. Those cases are going to get harder and harder to find. I think one variant of the 4runner had one.

 

BillDaCat8,
I have more pictures I can post but did not want to overtake your thread.

The shifter is a moded stocker. It came with the trans and already had a URD short shifter kit on it. I sent both shifters out Coupe who drilled them and filled them with epoxy to help prevent the issue of the two half's separating. I should have had him cut the RC shifter down about an inch, much taller then my stock RA with the TRD short shifter kit.

I cut the floor using a carbide tipped multi-tool. I did best I could with the shet metal did not come out how I really wanted it too. I was hoping that the new hole would completely takeover the original hole and the little plastic mounting holes. For whatever reason the shifters did not sit perfectly inline in the original hole, they favored the driver side. This dictated where i could cut and how much i could.
For the back half where there is two pieces of sheet metal, I carefully plunged the blade into the first layer to only cut that portion and then laid the blade flat to cut the spot welds. I did this so the boot would have a flat surface to seal against once installed. When it comes to converting the AC PreRunner manual trans trucks, the RC trans shifter base (not the shifter itself) sits forward about an inch or so from the stock trans. I had to cut forward of the existing hole and back to wards the t-case. I decided to use the factory plastic inserts that accept screws to hold down the FJ shifter boot. The FJ boot is made up of three pieces, the metal flange, the main upper boot and a lower boot the sits around the shifter pedestal. I found for my swap I had to take the lower boot portion apart and make the shifter holes larger due the distance being different from shifter to shifter.

My t-case is out of a 2012 4runner non-AWD, typical "J" shift model.

In one of the pictures I posted showing the side of the trans you can see the Hydro lines with the new connectors crimped on and everything mocked up for fit. You can see the speed bleeder bolted in the same place you did and the other line going to my quick disconnect. I had a place in SoCal cut the Tilton lines right behind the original crimp and they installed new ones at a -3 size so did not have change fitting sizes. my RC trans came with the 2017 accumulator, I took the bracket, and the accumulator bolts to make the two brackets used for the speed bleeder and quick disconnecter.

For my swap I used an Auto trans rear mount so my cross-member is straight.
Still have some vibrations in the rear drive shaft that need to be sorted, been thinking about going to a one piece drive shaft with a double cardigan. I need to get under the truck and see what the angle relationship is between the two flanges before I decide what I will do.

 

Rc trans for mock-up. You can see how the shifter base sits forward of the opening.


Cross-member with the auto trans rear mount.


Air gap as you showed in your other thread.


shifter boot moded and installed