2009 Tacoma Antifreeze

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone...lant-15yr-350k-mi-1-Gal-Concentrate/293341339
Can I use this in my tacoma?

And should I open the drain plugs on the block to drain the antifreeze properly?

I'm changing it because it's no longer pick but brown/orange. I have 135k on it.

Thanks,
Brian

 

Pretty sure you need borate free anti freeze..the pink stuff due to the Aluminum components...but maybe I am incorrect in my remembering all this...

 

The same Walmart probably sells the Peak "OE" pink/red fluid for Toyotas. I would just grab that instead.

I would drain the block personally, at least if the drains are easy to reach. Not sure on the 6 cylinder, but on the 4 the one on the passenger side is easy to reach, driver's side isn't. So most people just pull the passenger side plug and call it good enough. You'll probably be fine even if you don't though IMO.

 

You probably can but if it was mine I would go back with OEM pink or the aftermarket equivalent, most major brands have Asian pink antifreeze now.

 

It's fine sure, you'll have to drain the block, rad and heater core to get the old fluid out.

I'd still suggest oem. I never use anything but oem coolant on any vehicle of any manufacturer.

 

If the cooling system is dirty I would open all the drains, pull the heater hoses and radiator hoses and flush through everything thoroughly with a garden hose then let it all drain good, put it back together and fill it with the correct coolant distilled water mix.

 

The main difference with Asian "pink" coolant is usually the inclusion of phosphates, which help keep the system clean. Otherwise, most modern coolants are a type of OAT (organic acid technology) and a tiny handful of car models require HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology, which means they still use silicates).

So, Asian mfrs still use phosphates in their coolants because it does work to keep the system from getting slimey and gooey over time, but American and Euro mfrs go without it because of environmental concerns (phosphates when disposed of incorrectly into land water bodies can contribute to toxic algae blooms).

 

Ok guys , and how many gallons? I have heard 2?

 

Capacity is 10.1 qts so most use 2 gal of the premix 50/50 OEM. A few dollars more but for another 100k miles who cares and correct mixture.
Yes open the 2 drains on lower block thru the front wheel mud flaps.
Flush out system with a hose and then if local water is full of minerals or chlorine close drains fill with distilled and open to drain again.
Remember to clean the reservoir and save some coolant for that (or fill that first to cold line).
Good time for a new OEM cap and match the pressure to what's stamped on current cap as several options.

 

Thanks muddog

 

So I just got down with my coolant flush. I did us vinegar(2 gallons) and distilled water(4gallons). I didn't know about not putting cooler water in side hot metal(someone told me after I did it), but what I had done is had the water in the sun and on hot cement(unknowingly benefical) and I had started the truck to get things stirred, and when I drained everything, the radiator was still hot, and with the water kinda warm, and the radiator warm, I think the good Lord protected me.

I put new hoses, and thermostat and my heat is scorching hot now. I used Prestone Platinum green/yellow. The mixture is 56(coolant),44(water). The change interval is 350k. I know someone is going to say...change it @ 100k..........NO!......hoses maybe, and if the water pump goes new will be added then. The antifreeze is POAT compliant. I checked that from what I learned on this site.