Long Travel BS Thread

I used these to connect factory wiring to the cable running to the back.

$15 Battery Cable Junction Block with Stainless Steel Post - Red and Black Pair for Power and Ground - Made in the USA (3/8)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B2MZK5R

I also installed this switch by my battery
WirthCo Battery Doctor 20247 Battery Disconnect Switch –Battery Disconnect Switc

$80 WirthCo Battery Doctor 20247 Battery Disconnect Switch –Battery Disconnect Switch with Lock-Out Plate, Kill Switch for Cars, Autos, Boats, RVs, Water Resistant, Fixed Handle Isolator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UPCG9ZS

I can get some more pictures later if you want.

 

Are you sure it's the tires and not something else going bad at the same time as the new tires went on? I'd look at ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rods, steering rack, etc. Still have the factory sway bar on?
Also take one off and roll it across a flat surface or put it on jack stands and put it in first and see if the wheel is what's actually doing it. Could also be a wheelbearing?

 

We went one at a time removing them, with no spacers there was no shimmy. What we did: we jacked the back up to visually look at the rears while moving and visually everything was straight, so we pulled the RF spacer off and the shimmy was reduced, then pulled the LF off and no shimmy, took the RR spacer off and put to the RF, no shimmy, took the LR spacer off and moved the the LF and shimmy, took LF spacer off and clocked it 180 deg and still shimmy, rotated LR tire to LF and still shimmy. Shimmy is greatly reduced but still there. Then it got hot and I was tired of pulling tires to we gave up for the day. I know ya'll are gonna say something wrong with LF but with no spacer there is no shimmy.

BTW, thanks for all the replies. It helps.

 

What brand spacers? I'd say there's something wrong with the spacers if I'm following what you wrote correctly:

Rear = no shimmy w/ or w/o spacers
Front with spacers: Lots of shimmy
Front with no spacers: No shimmy
Front with one spacer: Some shimmy

I'd also measure and see if the spacers are all uniformly sized and you didn't get a different one mixed in.

 

Made a plate mounted a shut off switch and a coupe of terminal posts. Threads into the inner fenders where I put in rivnuts. There’s a standoff on the inner part to support that side. Aint pretty but does the job.

 

Little progress

 

I would check to see if your studs stick past your spacers. If your only running a 1” spacer you might need to cut the factory studs so they clear and allow the wheel to sit flush.

 

Anyone have a pair of OE LED tail lights they're looking to get ride of for a 2nd gen? I really only need the driver's side but I'll buy a pair.

 

You’re in luck.

 

Not bad. Looks better than what I have now with my battery. I’ve seen a few people use cut off switches there as well. What’s the reason for adding that? Just so you can switch it off under the hood?

 

"Disconnect the battery" step for general maint is my guess. Easier than crawling to wherever the batter is.

 

Also a safety factor especially when you have a run of large cable coming through the cab. Should technically be closer to the battery though. Under the hood with battery to the rear is sketch.

 

I plan on putting my battery just in front of the gas tank by the frame soon, I’ll probably put a cut off switch right on the floor board by the driver seat in between the rails and the door sill.

 

I did this on top of the JD fenders.

 

@DocME do you know if an 08 FJ shares the same inner and outer tie rods as a second Gen tacoma?

 

No. I know the inners have a different thread into the rack. The FJ’s is larger. The outer tie rods I think are different size inner thread as well. What are you trying to swap around.

 

Just doing some maintenance on my wife’s car. It’s got a little play in the steering. Might be something else, but it’s got 250k on it and probably the original tie rods. Doing 5100s so I figured while I was in there I’d swap those out, too.

 

Toss a mega fuse in between the switch and battery too. Electrical shit is so freaky if things go wrong. I’ve seen a whole lot of messed up stuff at work. I’m so paranoid about electrical fires that I have a pair of cable cutters in my center console as a shit really hit the fan defense lol.

 

I disagree. You dont want to be blowing fuses everytime you use your winch. For example my warn is 400amp max draw. If your blowing that you have something seriously fucked up and should have noticed way before that.

A good disconnect switch near the battery that is easy to access is a good option.
Wrap your wires in extra sheathing if your worried about them rubbing a whole.

 

Yep totally agree, one company told me otherwise lol.

Always have ran poly engine/tcase