Long Travel BS Thread

Sounds exactly like what is going on with my wife’s and her spacers. Is it a 5th gen? I don’t have the specs handy but can get them this weekend if reminded.

I believe they are 17x7.5” with 4.75” back spacing but I would have to pop one off and check

 

I'm not following. What front stuff?

 

5th gen, 17" wheel.

 

I just cut the whole front end off and started over with JD fab inners. Kept my battery right where it was.

 

What washer reservoir did you use?

 

I believe it came from Vibrant.

 

Those are 17x7 with 4.6" backspacing, so with the wheel spacer you're down to 3.6" backspacing. I don't think you need quite that aggressive of backspacing to clear the resi, I would guess 4" backspacing is fine for the new wheels. That's just me guessing though, take that with a grain of salt.

 

Should be just fine with no spacers at all. Friend of mine with a 5th gen runs 33's on factory wheels with no rubbing on reservoirs and had 35's on for a while and I don't believe they rubbed the resis either, just everything else in the way lol. Has tire balance been checked? Sometimes even if they spin good but have a hop they need to be static balanced instead of dynamic. Most tire shops look over this and it ends up causing a shake.

 

They are Tacoma Fox's on the front so the ressi hose gets in the way. We had to make mounts for the ressie and no matter the tire rubbed. Plus the washer reserv is on the passenger side making it difficult. We also put Tacoma Fox's on the rear and had to make mounts for the ressie and the tire rubbed there too. We took the spacers off to check shimmy and it looked goofy with the wheel tucked in.

Yeah, tires have been balanced a couple times. Next thing I'm going to have the tires balanced with the spacer on the balancer.

 

Hub centric spacers I hope?

 

of course

 

When you remove the battery you have to do something with the factory connections and also connect to your cables going to the back. Just curious what people have done there.

 

I ran my battery cable from the back to the starter. Then made/bought a new cable from the starter to where the battery was and used a post to connect. Not this but similar.

 

I used these to connect factory wiring to the cable running to the back.

$15 Battery Cable Junction Block with Stainless Steel Post - Red and Black Pair for Power and Ground - Made in the USA (3/8)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B2MZK5R

I also installed this switch by my battery
WirthCo Battery Doctor 20247 Battery Disconnect Switch –Battery Disconnect Switc

$79 WirthCo Battery Doctor 20247 Battery Disconnect Switch –Battery Disconnect Switch with Lock-Out Plate, Kill Switch for Cars, Autos, Boats, RVs, Water Resistant, Fixed Handle Isolator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UPCG9ZS

I can get some more pictures later if you want.

 

Are you sure it's the tires and not something else going bad at the same time as the new tires went on? I'd look at ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rods, steering rack, etc. Still have the factory sway bar on?
Also take one off and roll it across a flat surface or put it on jack stands and put it in first and see if the wheel is what's actually doing it. Could also be a wheelbearing?

 

We went one at a time removing them, with no spacers there was no shimmy. What we did: we jacked the back up to visually look at the rears while moving and visually everything was straight, so we pulled the RF spacer off and the shimmy was reduced, then pulled the LF off and no shimmy, took the RR spacer off and put to the RF, no shimmy, took the LR spacer off and moved the the LF and shimmy, took LF spacer off and clocked it 180 deg and still shimmy, rotated LR tire to LF and still shimmy. Shimmy is greatly reduced but still there. Then it got hot and I was tired of pulling tires to we gave up for the day. I know ya'll are gonna say something wrong with LF but with no spacer there is no shimmy.

BTW, thanks for all the replies. It helps.

 

What brand spacers? I'd say there's something wrong with the spacers if I'm following what you wrote correctly:

Rear = no shimmy w/ or w/o spacers
Front with spacers: Lots of shimmy
Front with no spacers: No shimmy
Front with one spacer: Some shimmy

I'd also measure and see if the spacers are all uniformly sized and you didn't get a different one mixed in.

 

Made a plate mounted a shut off switch and a coupe of terminal posts. Threads into the inner fenders where I put in rivnuts. There’s a standoff on the inner part to support that side. Aint pretty but does the job.

 

Little progress

 

I would check to see if your studs stick past your spacers. If your only running a 1” spacer you might need to cut the factory studs so they clear and allow the wheel to sit flush.