Tires Rubbing Frame (not cab mount)

There are endless discussions about fender, mud flap, uca, pinch weld, bumper and cab mount rubbing but I wasn't able to find any info about rubbing on the actual frame, which seems to be my only issue.

2010 DCLB.
Bilstein TRD Pro suspension (slightly less than 2" total lift)
TRD "beadlock" wheels (16x7.5 +10)
255/85R16 Yokohama Geolandar G003 MT's

Rubbing is fairly minor and rubs on both sides. It might get worse if really stuffed, I haven't really had it flexed in a while so these markings aren't too indicative of offroad conditions. You can see the area circled in red (it's also hitting my splash shield but that's less of a concern).



So, my question is... can this be fixed at all with caster? Or is this purely a wheel offset (backspacing) issue? If more backspacing is the only solution then I'm inclined to just live with it. But, if I can dial it out with a caster change I'll get some UCA's and work with an alignment tech to get it dialed in better.

Thanks!

 

So, from my experience with the Yokkies, theyre just chonky..can you see WHATS actually rubbing? Is it the tire lugs, or?? Mine rubbed on the front aeroflap thingie on turns, due to the lugs being so luggy...

 

The inner edge of the tire is rubbing, furthest corner of the tread basically. I haven't seen any others post this rubbing and I've followed a lot of the skinny tire threads/posts.

 

Wheel spacers or new wheels.

 

Unfortunately, that's what I'd assumed. Looks like I'll just be tolerating this rubbing as I don't really want different wheels and I have a hunch even a 0.75" spacer might solve this rub while causing worse rubbing elsewhere - plus that's more negative offset than I'd prefer.

 

I feel with a different tire, you wouldnt rub. Its just the lugs on these tires are HUGE, and stick out. I have 265/75s and they still had an issue on the front flap as to where the GoodYears didnt...you can always try an alignment I guess..

 

Do your rear alignment cams have adjustment left in them to push back of LCA outward? Looks like you dont need much. Finding a good alignment tech willing to work at it instaed of just turning bolts until machine shows green light would be the difficult part.

 

Yeah, a different tire would definitely solve it. I didn't have this rub when I ran 265/75R16. I'd rather deal with a little rubbing on occasion than fork over $$$ for new, smaller, tires.

Looks like there is some adjustment left. The rear cams appear to be near the middle (but pushing slightly out). The front tabs are probably 3/4" of the way to being pushed full inward. I forget what the current specs are, I'd have to dig up my records. I didn't think a caster change would necessarily fix this as I couldn't mentally picture that working. But, I also forgot how unfamiliar I am with this suspension and how it works.

There's a guy selling a set of UCA's locally so I'm thinking I'll pick those up. Hopefully by having those address the caster from the top I can have the alignment guy fine tune the LCA cams for camber and clearance.

 

I have bora 3/4” and love them.

 

I doubt you need UCA.
Turning the rear cam to push the rear eye of the LCA outward will increase caster and also push the tire out. So camber will go more slightly negative. Depending on what sort of alignment numbers you like the feel of driving on, the tech might turn the front cam to pull front of LCA inward to compensate for rear cam moving out which could end up just changing you to rubbing front side instead of back side.

The easiest option might be to leave it alone and live with it as-is.

 

Actually I'm rubbing my cab mounts BECAUSE OF my aftermarket ucas. They're JBA's, which have fixed built-in caster to help with lifts. When you lift your truck you naturally lose caster. The problem is, with More caster added via UCAs it pushes the tire toward the rear, whoch is a problem you Already have. If you do get ucas you want to get ones made by SPC that let you adjust.

 

Funny, I was thinking the same earlier as I looked into this more specifically. But I feel like I always hear people talking about the caster from UCA's helping with cab mount. Perhaps I'm just getting that mixed up.

I was originally planning on SPC's but have since decided against it. I love the independently adjustable nature of their design but seems their ball joints are not that great. I've seen where they have told other members their ball joints went bad because they washed their suspension with a pressure washer. That's basically an instant deal breaker for me.

 

Pressure washers can fk up anything if you spray too close. On the other hand, imo trying out a ¼" wheel spacer may solve your problem and would be the cheapest fix

 

Well, I've yet to have any problems with the pressure washer on this truck or any other vehicle. I'm not talking about 5000psi commercial pressure washers here, just a basic one used for washing cars. The moral of the story is that their ball joints are not designed for water. There's a thread or two that discusses this and people seeing very low mileage before needing to replace the ball joints. Thats something I'm not interested in dealing with.

And I'd love to throw a 0.25" spacer on there but in order to do that I'd need to install extended studs. I actually noticed just recently when pulling the wheels off that I'm already only getting about 5-6 turns on my lugs as-is. Which is strange since they're stock wheels and stock studs (unless a previous owner installed shorter ones).

 

Do they make a hub centric 1/4” spacer?

 

Yes
https://www.extremeterrain.com/coyote-tacoma-14-inch-wheel-spacers-911130.html

 

Hub centric isn't the issue. Lug stud length is. Not sure if it's normal or if something is up with my truck but with stock wheels and stock lug nuts I've only got about 6 turns of engagement of the lug nut. I've always heard 5-7 is basically the minimum and even a 1/4" spacer would cause an unsafe situation. And I'm not looking to go thru the hassle of installing extended studs.

 

It’ll be an issue if you dont use hub centric

or are your current wheels already not hub centric?

 

I don’t see a lip on that spacer for the wheel to sit on

 

This. Need to move the tire further out from the hub.