Joying 11.6 Issue with Back-up Cam staying on. 2022 Taco (no-JBL)

I installed Joying 11.6 SKU: JY-UQD11N8G-H in the Tacoma 2022 (non-JBL).

Joying had me select the CAN below, but I am having an issue.
RZC>Toyota>Camry>2018-2021 "Tacoma is not an option"


When the engine is started, the back-up camera is started also, and there is no way to turn off the back-up camera until the engine is stopped. There is no way to back-out of the camera screen with the Engine started also.

The 2022 has a button to start the engine while holding the brake.

The only way to turn the back-up camera OFF is to turn off the engine and turn the power back on by pressing the engine start button "while not holding the brake". The interior power comes on the same way it would if it had an ignition/key that was turned half-way. At this point I can get into the Joying's settings.

When the engine is started, moving to park/drive/reverse will not change anything nor turn the backup camera off.


Has anyone seen this issue?

The harness came with these two Yellow RCA plugs connected together. If I pull them apart with the engine running, it disconnects the backup camera, and all I get is a black screen. So I believe that having these yellow RCA connected together is the proper way to install the camera.




It is the same issue as this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7Cj36pvtVU

It seems like the harness is wired wrong. This will be annoying to figure out.

 

Video of the Backup Camera staying on https://youtu.be/Syq-agEzXas

Contacting Joying for Support.

Photo of the Harness Plugs


Photo if Harness and extra un-used plugs.






Extra Plugs that are not used with the Harness

 

with the engine off, does the reverse camera work as it should if shifting into reverse while in accessory mode? just be sure to do it with the e-brake on.

my '18's backup camera was handled via the canbus. given with how the joying connects to the vehicle wiring, this means that if the camera works, it very likely means it's a programming issue within the joying somewhere.

you could probe the connectors with a volt meter while the trucks in reverse to see if you get a +12v signal from somewhere, but if the trigger is via canbus, there's absolutely nothing that can be done with wiring.

i don't see a manual for the joying unit-- if it's got a reverse wire input, you might be able to add a wire to the truck to trigger it, but again, you're still going to be fighting software to override the canbus command they're sniffing for that's telling the camera to come on with the engine running.

given how new the truck is, i'm really thinking this is more of an issue you need to work out with joying tech support-- they likely need to release a patch that sniffs the canbus for the new/updated/alternate canbus signal that indicates reverse operation.

 

It just stays on if the car is in reverse.

I can't go into Reverse unless I press Engine START a second time.

While in reverse I can cycle the Engine START button and the camera stays on.

Is that what you mean? I am in contact with Joying and will see what they say.

As far as the A/C controls, I don't care if they work or not, but I also can't figure out how to remove them and the floating snowflake icon that stays on-top of the OS.

I wish they had made the OS more open source as far as options/settings go.

VIDEO2
Trying Reverse with the Engine Off. Camera Stays on. - YouTube

 

Possible good news. They are sending another harness after all this time. No idea if they sent the wrong one or if they had to reconfigure one for a 2022.



I got everything installed, will try to make a video showing the install soon.

 

or it's just part of their troubleshooting steps, and they're assuming the harness itself could be bad.

 

Yeah, anything is possible because the language barrier is really tough to get your point across to them.

The good part is that if the new harness has the same issue, I can cut up the original harness more and extend the wires for troubleshooting.

Then once I have the knowledge of what is possible, I can edit the new harness.

Then just solder only the wires that need changed without a rat's nest happening.

I did notice there must be some signal issue with the old harness canbus decoder because it will only sometimes display certain info like the MPH and then other times it will sit at 0 MPH. Same with the compass, sometimes it will spin, sometimes it stays stuck.

After reading about how a canbus system works, I realize that a lot of things can cause issues like that, because it is something like all one signal that runs in a big loop.

Also dude, I think that I am going to need a DSP. My volume goes 0 to 30, but the tweeters and mids are ear piercing by the time I turn it up to 10.

I never had door speakers on an amp until this build, so it has always been easier to adjust when the highs and mids were running off of the HU.

I am not even sure if I have heard what the sub can do yet because of the treble being more than I can handle.