New Total Chaos Lower Ball Joint Conversion

Yes, that’s what I was questioning. Like I said, maybe I’m missing something with the unibals, But just looking at them I don’t see what would keep them from doing the same thing in the long run.

I appreciate the fact that this remained a civil discussion, you don’t see that very often these days, especially on the internets and especially when someone questions someone else’s claims. I feel it’s an important part of the process of designing new products, having someone question and critic them vs just jumping on the bandwagon with no questions asked.

I truly hope this turns out to be a great product.

 

I agree, I’d never come on here or anywhere to be uncivil or bash anyone. Admittedly I’m biased as we spent the last two years thinking, over thinking and fine tuning this part. But that’s also the reason I’m so confident in how strong it is. I welcome people asking questions or even challenging our reasoning for building stuff the way we do. I’m by no means above being wrong, I’m of the opinion that failure is the best teacher. Thank you for a civil disagreement and discussion.

 

Any chance these can be made to fit the updated tundra spindles with the larger mounting bolts? I haven’t had an issue with the smaller bolts. I just happen to have spare tundra spindles laying around, and I like big bolts and I cannot lie.

these may be the thing to toss on my 95. It won’t see winters. None of my trucks do anymore

 

The 04-06 Tundra spindles aren’t just larger bolts, it’s a different bolt pattern as well. Those have been discussed, but it will depend upon how well the first style is received.

 

Good point. I never bothered to check the bolt pattern. But looking at them again, yea. They’re a bit different.

 

This definitely seems like an upgrade. There is that a 1" uniball should be stronger than oem joint itself. It is easy to inspect and serviceable by being able to replace just the uniball and the thru bolt. Although my truck gets treated more like a race truck than a Daily. I also like the ability to get a heim steering version.
You have to appreciate a company still innovating on an old platform.

 

So for the average guy that daily drives and takes his truck out light off-roading a few times a year, will these last longer than OEM if properly maintained and what does that maintenance look like… provide these answers and I’ll buy right meow

 

Last longer as in harder to break than the OEM ball joint, yeah. Just buy it, you know you want the next bling item which is sparse nowadays on these 1st gen trucks.

 

Here is the problem with answering that question; everyone truck and situation is different. For my situation I have a 2000 Tacoma V-6 4x4 5-speed as my daily driver and I go off-road (hard) about twice a month give or take "shortcuts" throughout the week. I was going through a set of ball joints every year but since I put these on a year and a half ago they are still tight with no play at all. That being said I only run 33"x10.50" R15 tires, not 35" or 37" which obviously add to wear. There are so many variables; climate, terrain they are used in, tire size, suspension system, shock valving, powertrain, how heavy your foot is when you drive, how well you take care of your truck maintenance wise etc etc. I'm not trying to make excuses, its just hard to tell someone yes it'll 100% last longer than an OEM ball joint, then when they live somewhere where the roads are salted, the truck stays outside in the snow and never gets washed and the uniballs wear out they are pissed because I said they'll last longer than OEM ball joints. They way I looked at it is that they are stronger than OE ball joints, are rebuildable, and don't have the risk of catastrophic failure like the ball joints do and that's why I started the project.

 

31” tires/3.4 L v6/automatic/4x4 w/ factory locker/Oklahoma/we rarely get snow and very little to no salt more likely to use sand/truck is garage kept/very highly maintained by yours truly/running OME nitro chargers/JBA UCA/Deaver add a leaf/not a heavy foot

What does maintenance look like though? Cleaning with them and spraying with Teflon?

 

For me maintenance doesn’t really exist as I’m not really ever in the mud or anything grimy or gritty. But for the most part if you are in the mud or anything really sticky and gritty try to remember to spray them out with the hose so the grit does not just sit in there and grind itself into the liner. That’s really all there is for maintenance unless they get squeaky. And if they do that I prefer finish line dry Teflon lubricant for bicycle chains that you can buy at a bicycle shop. I make sure I shake the bottle well and squirt it in the top of the Uniball cup until it pools, Then I drive the truck around cycling the steering wheel back-and-forth to let it soak into the liner.

Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle

$10 Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM

 

Mike, would these be compatible with other companies' lower control arms? Let's say Solo Motorsports or BTF Fabrication if we've already purchased those. Also, just to clarify, these would work with stock, mid, and long travel? Thanks in advance.

 

That’s just legal disclosure to put the liability on the consumer if they choose to mix use with other manufacturers. If it uses an OEM lower ball joint, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

 

where abouts do you live?

 

We have not tried it with any other manufacturers arms so I can’t tell you 100% yes but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work anywhere an OEM ball joint works.

 

Southern California

 

^exactly^

 

Awsome thanks guys. Adding to my list of "to buy".

 

Are you referring to Icon’s rusty bearings?