Long Travel BS Thread

The brake light is actually off no matter what. I’ve gone over the wiring schematics a few times, traced some of the wiring. Ebrake sensor was initially unplugged. Plugged it back in but no difference. I’ll mess with it later when it starts to bother me again.

Really just a trivial thing but it’s kinda annoying lol.

edit: i should add when the abs ECU was removed the brake light was always on. Now it’s the opposite lol.

 

Huh, well that’s a fun one. Best of luck on the hunt.

 

Yeah it doesn’t make much sense to me. Will have to get the multimeter out and see if that line is seeing ground when it shouldn’t. Easiest thing if I’m motivated enough is just cut the wire at the ecu, tie in a new wire all the way to the ebrake sensor. The firewall was tubbed so maybe that has something to do with it.

 

Correct. Fluid flow will be limited by the port size on the fitting and the hose. If you got a -8 hose you'll need to go larger to match the fitting size, assuming you decide to go with a larger size.

 

Yes Sir, makes no sense to convert it and restrict it at the same time. I was thinking about clearance in the wheel well, not how much I was affecting the flow of oil.
$120 lesson.....

 

Anybody know much about what Giant was doing for the Link Killer shocks? Were they basically doing a two tube bypass with a larger diameter compression tube? Trying to figure out what I should have King do when I send my shocks in for rework. They are currently single tube free bleeds, I love them but would really like to have control of both sides of the piston independently.

 

All mounts and trailing arms are welded, just need to make the shock mounts, and get the arms powder coated.

 

Weld the circles on the trailing arm overlays or they will rust out and ruin your powder coat

 

Looks good, did you run out of gas or wire? Looks like one of my weekend projects where you're just a couple inches away from completion...

 

…that’s what she said…

 

Will do, thanks!

I left the upper link un welded on one side so when I burn the mounts in I can verify it's correct and I don't need to shorten it. If that's what your talking about

 

I wanna build my own links one day

 

@NcTaco27 this, ask me how I know...

 

most bypasses I’ve seen with remote all use 1/2” hoses and fittings. Plus the only fluid flow is the displaced fluid from the shaft going into the shock, so flow really shouldn’t be an issue with 1/2” but also shorter hose runs help as well. And as far as the check valves go there shouldn’t be an issue. If he’s getting it that hot to effect your bypass tubes he’s probably warping your main body tube. But my big 14” dsc reservoirs are only a 1/2” npt fitting designed for 1/2” hose.

 

It's very fun, building all of it is fun. Laying under the truck putting them on is the not fun part.

thanks @81Trekker for the tips on my open corners.

 

Yea the -10 fitting and hose should be fine.
These are a 14" 2.5 w an 11" resi. I think a -8 would have choked it a little bit that close to the body.

Welder told me he'd keep the heat down with wet rags if he had to, but didn't see a problem.

 

Looking good and as always I’m happy to help you guys in anyway I can!

 

Was able to pull about another 1/2 of down travel in front but of course now I’m binding on the cv. I’ve strapped on t back to just before bind. Anyone shaved down their inner cv cups? Thinking of doing it as a temp fix until I scrape some money together to buy better cv.

 

With as many mud sessions I’ve put in the last two years I can only imagine the amount of dirt that’s gonna fall in my eyes lmao. The square tubes are different, haven’t seen that before

 

Starting to dial her back in again and it feels good.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkpFSj-puW6/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=