3G Taco Transfer Case Harness Extension

I’m planning on running a NW fab doubler on a third gen taco. In order to run this, the marlin box, or any other doubler you need to extend the transfer case harness (amongst other things). Most folks cut and solder the wires longer to do this, but I’m interested in making a harness extension instead of cutting factory wiring.

I’m having issues identifying the correct connector that is used on the transfer case motor box on the wire that needs extended. The connector is seen in this screenshot from TacomaDads YouTube video on the Marlin box install:



Wire experts @daveeasa and @caribe makaira any help? Can’t seem to find it called out in the service manual or parts catalog either.

 

I don't have a 4x4. A closer pic would help.

 

I’ll do some digging tonight. If I cannot find anything I’ll find some time to drop my skid this weekend.

 

The 12 pin black connector that plugs in to the transfer case actuator is this

 

Damn you guys are good. Now, to try to find the make counterpart plug. Apparently that connector is also used on the ignition switch!

 

That's going to be very difficult. I suggest you learn to de-pin the connector, get sealed mating ones then extend the wires and reuse the T4.

 

Oh boy, now I see the rabbit hole. At that point it sounds simpler to cut and solder some wires in and be done with it! Specially if there really is not a use case to ever unhook the intermediate joint, I’d just remove the connector from the TC motor anyhow. Guess there’s no way around monkeying with those wires

 

You give up so easy...

 

I suppose my hesitation is because if I need to re crimp pins in the 11087 female connector (cut wires if I Bork it), as opposed to cutting and soldering the wires that currently exist, it seems to me that I just have added more work to get to the same solution… not having avoided cutting up the original wires.

I guess I just need to weigh crimping versus cut and soldering. If you were to do something like this, on a wire that exists under the vehicle and will be exposed to moisture, what would you recommend doing?

 

Not a fan of solder where movement is involved. The terminals in those connectors are the sealed kind. Even the connector has a sealing ring.

 

I appreciate the input and the connector callouts. Hell, maybe I’ll give this a go. I’ll weigh it a bit more.

thanks for the info. It’s impressive how quickly you can send over connectors and diagrams etc.

 

Personally I’d just a heat shrink sealed butt splice. That’s what I did on my marlin box 10 years ago and no issues.

 

I’d avoid solder. I personally use non insulated butt splices from delcity using a Thomas and betts crimper that gets them ridiculously tight. I slide my separate heat shrink over one of the wires before I crimp both sides. But the combo heat shrink butt splices are good too. I just know I get them tighter with the ones I use so that’s what I’ve stuck with.

I don’t solder anything.

 

The key thing here is these are carrying very little amperage. For things like battery or starter cables I use a hydraulic crimper as well as solder the connector on, then put heat shrink. Little 18 gauge wiring doesn’t need to be soldered and it also makes wrestling the wires harder because the spliced area is not able to flex.

 

That's why I recommend de-pinning...make added harness as long as needed.