Continuous blown fuse

The black wire leads back to the negative on relay that is grounded on a bolt on the fender wall.

Per the Caliraised raised switch instructions the 2 reds go together. I tried them individually also still a no go.

Heres what's my relay is connected to

 

I ran through the harness this morning checking

 

Will the fuse blow with the lights disconnected….just making sure if one of the lights may be shorted internally ….unplug pin 87 from the relay

 

The red power with fuse from relay is straight to the battery, Black is grounded to side of fender with bolt.

Harness then has blue/white/black to the switch.

Switch Black to black at harness then grounded and fender

Switch green to white

Switch reds to blue

 

Time to break out the volt meter and see where everything is actually going. Disconnect the light wires from the positive side of the battery, install a new fuse, and measure resistance from the ring terminal to ground with the switches on. It should read less than 2 ohms to blow a 25 amp fuse because we know you have a short somewhere. Start unplugging things one at a time until it reads open. Start by disconnecting the light bars themselves, then the relays, then the switches. Find the component that gets rid of the short when unplugged and then you can focus on the wiring for that part instead of trying to troubleshoot the whole system.

 

I just unhooked the light and the fuse didn't blow. I can hear the relay click when I push switch on and off.
I did find out I have 1 bad relay. Have 2 new ones coming tomorrow. I don't have ant back glow coming from the switches now.

What's weird is when I wires the front up originally (same as it is) with the rocker switch that came with the kit they came on just fine, but the switch was too big for any of my slots.

 

With pin 87 unplugged from the relay itself ..does the wire going to the lights have continuity to ground with the lights plugged up?

 

Red 1 is an output, connects to blue relay wire.

Red 2 is a 12V input, can connect to any 12v source or dash circuit positive to come on with the dash lights and dim if switch black is connected to dash lights circuit negative(not the same as chassis ground) or not dim if Black is connected to chassis ground.

Black switch wire only grounds the leds that are in the switch, nothing else.

To activate the relay only the Green and Red 1 wires are necessary to switch function. Red 2 and Black are for illumination only.

 

Got it, just picked up a new meter. I'll have to dive into this in the afternoon as I have a family function.

 

If switch Black is grounded through one of the wires you disconnected then the switch leds won’t light up. The relay is obviously still grounded or it wouldn’t “click”.

 

The black switch wire goes 85 (all grounds) on the relay that is grounded to the fender

I disconnected the lights +/- but not the relay or switch black

 

This is the problem/solution. You should have began your original post with this. "Everything worked fine until I put a different switch"!

Put the original switch back in, test it out, then carefully double check all your wiring (it should work fine based on your statement) and put the new switch in. Make 100% sure you are wiring apples to apples...etc.

Good luck.

 

Connecting Red 1 & 2 won’t cause a short it just changes how the leds light up. Both on with switch on and both off with switch off. If you want more normal behavior connect Red 2 to Green instead of Red1.

 

If green is connected to the battery.
The light for the switch will never go off if you hook it up that way.

 

I totally spaced on that until I posted it

I had to switch switches as the ones that came with the kit do not fit my opening

 

True, that’s why I never use the same source for all 3(relay, switch and led power) it paints you into a compromise corner. The schematic shown is for a generic 3-wire switch rather than the one he has and results in all 3 going through the firewall instead of just one as well as losing much of the ability to match oem appearances.

 

This is the single most informative thread on adding electrical accessories to our trucks. You can do less but it goes through all the what, why & how so you can actually know wtf you’re doing and can troubleshoot more confidently. Worth reading no matter how little you end up choosing to do.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

 

We could eliminate one side of the relay by testing socket 87 of the relay with a test light.
Unhook the lights, use a test light form battery power to socket 87. The test light should not light up.
Again this requires the load (the lights) to be disconnected.
A voltage meter would do the same.

You could also pull the relay and flip the switch, if the fuse blows, it’s in the switch wiring.

 

He already pulled the light and verified the switch activated the relay properly so that indicates it’s downstream from the relay. If the light wires are reversed it can short through the casing and if not there should be a short between the wires or a short from the positive wire to the chassis. Maybe also check the connectors for discoloration. Sustained over current will show in all of them but a brief arc at the smoking gun would only show there.

 

I missed the part where she pulled the lights.
Still think a test light would be handy. Problem could be found in minutes.