Steering rack bushing replacements

I need to do this. I've been noticing some steering play that feels like it is coming from these bushings. Did you use the 2nd gen bushings?

 

Yes energy suspension bushings for 05-13 tacoma. Make sure when you get old bushing out that you also get the sleeve out. It folds over the rack on top and bottom so gotta bend that thin flange up then remove from bung then the poly ones slip right in. Also make sure you torque from the BOLT head and NOT the nut or you'll crush the sleeve. Ask me how I know..

 

Excellent advice, thank you. Also, I don't have air in my garage-shop. Do you think a Dewalt sds 20v chipping hammer would work for smashing the old bushings out? I really really don't want to pull the rack. For obvious reasons, lol

 

That should work fine. The things I'm saying will make a lot more sense once you get in there.

It's not a hard job just kinda pita if that makes sense

 

Great advice and shoutout Holly Springs. Just sold a house in Fuquay and am in Cary now. A few questions for you on the bushing replacement, I'm no mechanic so don't give me any benefit of the doubt.

I purchased a 2022 Trail Edition back in April and recently noticed the steering rack is moving slightly from side-to-side when parked and turning the steering wheel back and forth (all wheels grounded, not on a jack). Also noticed a slight tapping / popping noise coming from near where the steering shaft connects to the rack (could not pin point) when parked and moving the steering wheel slightly back and forth from the 11 to 1 o'clock positions (still all wheels on the ground). To me, it sounds like it could be two metal surfaces skipping / sliding against each other as the rack moves, maybe like one of the bolt heads against the rack, not sure if that's even possible but fingers crossed it's not any internals of the rack.

1) Is some movement in the rack to be expected since the bushings are made to absorb impacts?
2) To replace the bushings, you say you never disconnected the outer tire rods but you did disconnect the tire rods from the spindles, right?
3) Did you disconnect the high and low pressure lines along with the steering shaft on the backside of the rack before rotating your rack forward?
4) For the bolts, are you saying that you removed the nuts and then cut the bolt threads as far up as possible so that the bolts would be shorter allowing you to remove the bolts from the top? I was under the impression that you would need to cut the bolts at their head and drop them out of the bottom.

 

Cool man send me a pm and maybe we can meet up some time. I work in cary too..



-there will be SOME movement ad they are rubber but if they are bad you can see the rubber split. Moving wheel with engine off key on all wheels on ground will give enough resistance to see play or not. Very minimal is normal, if you're watching rack move that could be bushings..hard to say without seeing.

-i did not disconnect the outers or inners at all, I have the luxury of being a mechanic, so I had a lift at work I used to make it easier.

-disconnect the lines, undo a few line bracket bolts, undo the intermediate shaft top and bottom and slide up off the rack (be sure to mark it) then rotate the rack forward and I got in there with my air hammer to get the bushing sleeves our.

- for the bolts you cut off the amount of bolt that sticks out past the nut when tight. It's only like 1/4 inch or so but it's juuuust enough to make it work. The pass side I did not cut, but the driver I did. Loosen both and then you can just barely slide it over and forward enough to work on. The pass side bolt I ended up grinding a small flat side on so that it makes getting past the engine corner just a bit easier for going back in/future. DO NOT REINSTALL THE BOLTS FROM THE BOTTOM.



It's kind of an annoying job and if done on the ground would be a pain but it's possible.



As for noises....man. forever chasing those lol. Not sure if you're lifted and such, but racecar parts make racecar noises. I sometimes forget this with how much money I've spent, but if you actually use the truck like I do there's always sooomething thats driving you nuts. Lol

 

Valuable information here. It is disheartening reading your comments regarding using a lift. I did exactly what you described @Mshort03, truck off key on all wheels on the ground. Tons of play and noise there. I am not a mechanic, but I have some tools and have changed my own CV's etc. How bad would it be to change these bushings without a lift? Should I even attempt it?

 

@Chax you can do it on the ground it will just be more of a pain.. disconnecting the outers may make it easier in your case but I'm not sure. It's more than a cv for sure but if you're comfortable I say go for it.

The kit you want is this

$69 Energy Suspension 8.10106G Rack & Pinnion Bushing Set

Energy Suspension 8.10106G Rack & Pinnion Bushing

You can also check the rack itself for play by grabbing the inner boot and feeling that while someone else turns wheel.

Be sure that you reinstall the front diff breather hose that will likely slide off when you move the power steering lines as they share a bracket.

Getting the rack to slide over and tilt forward will be frustrating even on a lift. It barely squeezes by the engine but is absolutely doable.

 

Update on my steering rack:

Took it to the dealer today and they confirmed that the bushings are bad which is causing the excessive movement and popping noises. This truck only has 9K miles on it and is a 2022 SR5 Trail Edition. The dealership is replacing the entire steering rack since the bushings are not separate parts. They estimated that they will be finished today or tomorrow. Here is a link to the video I took of the rack moving.

https://youtube.com/shorts/dt9cE14dKi0?feature=share

 

Glad they are taking care of you!

 

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but thats how much squish they have brand new. Shoulda had a dealer start a brand new truck and had a look before letting them touch yours

 

Interesting. Ill post an update with the new rack to see if there’s any difference in play. Have you had experience with the new racks?

There was a popping noise happening when turning the wheel which was 100% not normal nor good. The dealer saw the video and after inspection they deemed it was too much play.

Not really bad news either way because it’s covered under warranty and will be for the next 10 years or 100k miles.

 

I disagree. My buddies rack does not move nearly that much. Some movement yes but pushing all the way to the side? No. Mine was similar and when took it out the bushing fell to pieces.

 

Here is a video of the bushing play with the new steering rack. While the rack is still moving, it is moving far less than before and I can notice a huge difference in ease of steering.

https://youtube.com/shorts/WjCyUYQS14A?feature=share

 

Asking for a friend…. Would it be possible without an air hammer??? Sounds like I’m in for a bad time haha

 

It could be done with a hammer and chisel. Honestly tho I wouldn't use the poly bushings. I had constant problems with it moving on me despite being tight. A bunch of other people have also reported this. The inner sleeve is too short and allows the rack to move under force. Caused all kinds of headaches. I'd personally throw a reman rack in for 250 and be done thats ehat I ended up doing and been great for 30k miles of hard wheeling so far. First rack lasted like 60k. For 250 I'll take that interval..