BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

That sounds nice, I remember seeing Terlingua on the map, it did look like a good mid point for everything. I’ll have to check that out. Id probably do something similar, lots of hiking, keep things simple and enjoy the outdoors

 

Pulled the turbo off the other day bc I had an oil leak coming from the oil drain flange. Ended up finding a cap on the wastegate missing so I took care of that as well while it was off. Also, I replaced the gasket for the drain flange and something I noted was the one made by Full-Race was a better fit. The boost lab gasket was slightly smaller on the main drain port.

Another recent repair was with the throttle body. The original one had 305k and it finally gave up the ghost. The symptoms I had were a p0505 idle air control malfunction code, and the truck wouldn’t idle down to around 650 like normal, it was staying at 800+ constantly. A junkyard replacement seems to have solved that issue, but i then had a p0138 again. Last time I had this issue it was running rich and the rear o2 sensor was unhappy bc of this. Basically the same thing was starting again after I swapped out throttle bodies. While at cruise on my way to work in the morning from 24-10 in/hg the AFRs were in the low 14s. I pulled some fuel from the tune and now the p0138 has been gone for a couple days and it’s back to around stoich at cruise in vacuum.


Polydyn coating seems to be holding up well also

 

I am really happy to see how well that coating is holding up. Inside and out.

 

Im pleased with it as well. Once i build another downpipe that actually fits properly, i will probably have it coated too.

 

Did a few minor things to the truck recently.

swapped out the driver side window/door lock panel cover for a new one. Didn’t realize how much the old one changed colors until installing the new one.

built a DIY rotopax mount for my 3.5gal fuelpax. Found a pic on a jeep forum where someone used scrap aluminum, so I did the same and tig welded a brace on there as well to stiffen things up some. Definitely isn’t super stout, but it’ll do the job on the rare occasion that I’ll be carrying extra fuel

here was the inspiration

and the final product

 

Installed a new clutch today. Still has vibrations during acceleration and deceleration at certain rpms unfortunately, but I have a new plan. I went ahead and ordered a stock

$154 Aisin CKT-065 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

Aisin CKT-065 clutch kit, and I am going to try and use the 2200lb clamp load pressure plate that got installed today with a stock style disc. I am convinced that the issue I am having is harmonic vibrations due to the springs on the performance clutch discs not matching up with the engine. I thought this could be powder coat/dowel pin related but I cleaned those up well and removed the powder coat on the new PP today. Test fit went great, slid all the way on the dowels and sat flush, but alas the same issue persists.

Ultimately, if new this Aisin clutch disc/M-Pact pressure plate is not a viable option for at least a year or two I am going to start looking into a 4 speed automatic A340F swap. I am about at my wits end with dealing with these vibrations, so all options are now on the table. I have tried the following clutch discs/the PP they provide and they all had the same harmonic vibrations while decelerating with the clutch engaged(foot off the pedal) and accelerating at certain rpm ranges.

LCE Dual Comp (made by Clutchmasters)
SPEC stage 2+
M-Pact 16-094-ST1X
M-Pact 16-094-ST2X

here’s the M-Pact ST2X. I am planning on using this pressure plate with an Aisin disc

 

Robert,
I know what’s wrong! You need one of these below…
Well the engine builder pulled the engine apart and it was well taken care of.
I only need to replace two rockers, plus all the normal wear items, bearings, rings, lifters, timing chain & gears, up grade to Bronze trunnions, upgraded push rods, upgraded valve springs, a baby aftermarket cam, and all new seals & gaskets, plugs & wires, hoses & all the little mis. stuff. The engine builder guessing it going to be about 410 to 415 HP at the flywheel on regular pump gas.
Hopefully that w/ a new TrueTrac should push the little 5 lug regular cab down the road.

 

That's good news indeed. You should start a build thread to document your swap, i am super interested in seeing how things go and how your truck is set up. I really hate to give up my 5 speed, but i'm about sick of throwing money away on clutches that dont work with my setup. It's honestly kinda disappointing bc if ever built the engine and wanted to turn things up, i'd be SOL bc of the clutch situation. I'm now contemplating a 4 speed auto swap, or depending on how involved that is, just jumping ship completely and doing like you with but with a forged LS.

 

I mean, it may be worth a call to southbend to see what their thoughts are? I talked with them extensively about the dual friction combo for a 500 capable clutch. It was going to be pricey, but they might have some ideas about the vibrations!

 

I may have to give them a call and see what they think could be causing it and what options there are. I did fail to mention that when I first jumped down this rabbit hole, I dropped the trans 4 or 5 times to isolate the source of the vibrations, changing only one thing at a time. I have run tons of different combinations and by process of elimination, everything has pointed to the clutch disc or pressure plate as the culprit, which is why I’ve been trying different ones in hopes of finding one that is smooth.

To date, the only thing that hasn’t vibrated has been the stock clutch that came in the truck and a stock LuK clutch.

Here’s an article that explains things pretty well. I didn’t realize the springs on the clutch disc are helping dampen the pulses that the flywheel sees but it makes a lot of sense.
https://tremec-blog.com/clutch-vibrations-identify-cause-and-solve/

 

Are you sure that it couldn't be a pinion angle needs adjusting, carrier bearing, u-joint, or driveshaft out of balance?

 

Checking your pinion angle is easy and free.

 

Since it is accel/decel/rpm related it has me leaning towards the clutch. Also, I ran a LuK clutch with the same setup with no vibes, it all started after that clutch started slipping and I replaced it with another performance one with a higher tq rating

 

Carrier bearing and u-joints are relatively new, and based on how those have behaved when they’ve failed in the past, this seems unrelated to that as well. The u-joints I’ve seen have been quiet vibrations that shake the whole truck around 45-50mph or a loud popping noise while in first gear under high loads. I am fairly sure I replaced those after the first LCE clutch in an effort to try and locate the vibrations and rule those out as a variable. For reference these are loud grinding type vibrations that occur when engine braking in certain rpm ranges. The ones while accelerating are much less of a problem, but the engine braking vibes have me where I just throw it in neutral bc I’m worried it’s going to destroy something

 

Hmmm

 

As weird as it is, it seems like clutch chatter. I don't really understand how it could be doing it on decel more than acceleration, but damn. I'd be very curious to hear south bends thoughts on the matter.

 

Hmmm. With what you said, makes me wonder if those vibrations happen when decelerating with the clutch peddle pushed in versus clutch engaged?

 

Only happens when the pedal is not pushed in, and im in gear, if i leave it in gear and push the pedal in, no vibrations at all

 

yeah it had me stumped for quite a while, but i finally came to the conclusion its the disc. The weird thing is, there is no chatter or anything when taking off from a dead stop, and no drivability problems other than the inability to engine brake. i will try to make some time to give them a call and see what they have to say

 

It could be something to do with the aggressive clutch being designed to hold the torque in one direction and not the other?