Home Improvement Today?

So long as the floor is solid, it should be fine with new wax seal and t-bolts. The supply line is steel or galvanized is prob bad, id follow it back and replace it to where it meets copper. If its corroding from inside everywhere its going to be a repipe of the house. Pex is easier to work with

 

^^^Agree^^^

I wouldn't trust that supply line, replace it back to solid pipe.

 

Forgot to mention we poured a micro finish concrete slab in the carport of my last job where we are currently building the shop

 

What is a micro finish?

 

its an exposed aggregate finish but the retarder is formulated to not go into the surface as deep as a traditional exposed aggregate so you only expose the sand and sometimes just the tops of the rocks instead of fully exposing the rocks , it basically makes the surface grippy

 

Oh. That seems a good way to do things. Is it good for driveways?

Do you have to use a special broom to finish it?

 

Everyone who works for real as part of your day job, hats off to you. I’m beat and this cost way more than I thought and was quite a bit of effort. Thank goodnesss my bro in law is the champ and carried me through this. It’ll be funny if it falls over once loaded.

 

yes , we've done driveways

you don't sweep it , you apply a surface retarder after its placed and troweled , then power wash it 4-12 hours later depending on drying conditions

 

Oh. I've never heard of that kind of a chemical finish.

With micro finished driveways, how long does the finish last after snow plowing?

 

its not a topical chemical finish per se , the applied retarder just keeps the surface of the concrete from setting up and you wash that layer off , leaving the sand and top of the aggregate exposed . We then apply 3 coats of a solvent based cure and seal

 

Your feeble attempts at attacking me personally are laughable Notice how the rest of the thread has stopped replying to you after having their feedback dismissed? But I welcome confrontation.

Above this is every post you’ve made thus far about this god forsaken stick of wood. This took me about 3 minutes to go through & quote, which cost me more in my job’s salary than this single stick of wood would cost to replace. I won’t go through & quote all the suggestions you’ve received; from both weekend warriors like myself but also from legitimate contractors that put food on their table doing jobs like this. Far be it from any of us to suggest something thus far, seems like you just want to shoot down feedback but not clue us in on what you plan to do or why our feedback isn’t viable. Since semantics seems to be your forte, I’ll use terms that you yourself have used in the quotes above. Your “deck beam” had too much material removed by your planer. Either your “deck beam” or your “joist” (proper term but quotations used to indicate it’s the word you also used) can be replaced. Whether it’s the deck board that you walk on or the joist below it that got screwed up, it’s a matter of an hour or 2 to remove the offending piece. You’ve got a hand full of screws, perhaps some “strong tie” type of connection that ties the joist to the house frame….this is perhaps the easiest R&R any of us have ever seen. You yourself have made mention of the (lack of) quality of lumber and the budget constraints. Either of these is easily overcome with very minimal amount of effort on your part. Reading comprehension is far from my weakness, perhaps you should face the mirror and consider what it is about the free advice from this forum that you refuse to accept?

Why don’t you use your time & words to articulate what exactly it is about replacing that piece of wood that you so vehemently oppose?

 

Should’ve built a patio.

 

It''s the end of the world.

Prepare accordingly.

 

How many cords of wood do you typically go through in a winter season?

 

Only photo I took, but $10 later and it's fixed. Cracks me up that toilet fill valves can be used as pool fill valves.

 

No clue at all, first winter here. Never owned a wood burning stove before. First time splitting wood too. It’s been fun.

There was a pretty big supply under the deck and a rodent problem so getting all the garbage left behind removed and the usable wood away from the house was a priority. Also the deck is just low enough that it’s not super convenient to get in there to stack wood or pull from the stack, though it is dry due to an overhanging sealed deck above.

We also took down a honey locust in front that dropped a branch on the minivan giving it a nice dent, those leaves sucked big time and we want native plants out front. That doubled the wood supply, and apparently it needs 1-2 years to season? The wood we have is supposedly from a sister tree which fell in an ice storm 2 years ago, some of it is dry and burns well but some has trouble, it just wasn’t an ideal spot where it was. And the chimney sweep guys were not cheap, so I’d like very much to do the firewood stuff right.

If the children earn their supper today, I’ll post a photo of it all stocked up.

 

@2ndhandTacoman , given my intense adoration for overkill, what I would do is plane the other joists to match that 5/16” drop. Work slowly with a level and check with your deck boards as you go. It’ll look perfect that way and requires no disassembling of what you’ve already built. You can finish sand as well if you want a slight bevel restored. Also, some wood preservative once done. Seems like that would provide maximum satisfaction with minimal material costs, just that planer and a precision level.

Unless the final deck height is already so precise that 1/4” lower is a problem.

 

Looking for recommendations for a gas log remote thermostat please!

 

as a home-gamer, the flange looks good. but i suggest going with the non-wax rings. easier for me to set as a non-professional, as i can keep taking it on/off.

$14 Korky 6000BP Universal Toilet WaxFree Seal with Hardware - Toilet Installation Made Easy - Made in USA , Red

https://smile.amazon.com/Korky-6000BP-Universal-WaxFree-Hardware/dp/B00NOD4R7M?crid=34K0OSG1FKURZ&keywords=toilet+gasket&qid=1669562970&sprefix=toilet+gasket%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-7&th=1

as far as the water line, if it were me, if there's even a question on the supply line, it's worth the effort to replace with copper.

i'd run some boards across the back so the wood can't fall all the way through, and would help stiffen it up side to side

 

Triangles would help for strength I’d bet. But the back side is for loading and unloading as well. So it will stay open for business. I could do some interior front to back angles for the sides though.