Steering wheel stuck mid way through rotation

Went wheeling yesterday without an issue and then drove 200 miles home and to and from work today. This evening I made a right turn and my steering wheel began to show a lot of resistance at one specific point in the rotation. Drove around the block and it happened a few times. There is a small tear in a tie rod boot but hasn't posed an issue previously, could this be the culprit and if so what exactly?

 

My guess is intermediate joint or bad ball joint. But it could be a tie rod or steering rack.

Have someone rotate the wheel while you watch items with a flash light.

 

What is a tie-rod boot? Do you mean a CV boot? I'm not sure about your truck or generation but what you're describing sounds like a CV boot failure

 

Steering rack boot is an inner tie rod boot.

 

^ This.

 

Poor wording on my part, what I meant by rotation was the steering wheel. There was resistance at about one clockwise rotation of the steering wheel. Drove to work this morning and no issue. I'm glad it's gone but concerned that it's not consistent enough to identify. Could it be possible some crap got in the rack through the tear, jammed it up, and then dissipated?

 

No.

Given the variable nature of it, maybe it's a clogged up reservoir filter. The first two hits here (https://www.youtube.com/@TimmyTheToolman/search?query=power steering) cover the topic in depth.

 

If the screen is clogged would it make sense to only jam at one point when turning one direction?

 

I think you should do both things- visually inspect the rack and the surrounding components (tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, etc), and flush and clean the reservoir and screen. If it's not one of those two things, you'll likely discover what it is in the process. Whether that's a kinked or damaged line, or maybe a damaged belt or bad bearing on the pump, idk, but you'll find out, and those things won't hurt you.

 

Alright, thanks for the input. I'm thinking I'll replace the boot since it's torn and while I'm at it flush the system and take a look at the inner tie rod. I'm hoping if nothing is actually damaged I can at least get the water or any residue out, regrease, and replenish fluids. Correct me if I'm wrong

 

Absolutely, along with all the other things previously mentioned.
I will not go into "probability" but it is entirely possible because the "rack and pinion gears" are located under the driver side boot. The boot clamp can easily be removed, the boot pulled back and an inspection done, in minutes. No fluid will leak and the clamp can be reused. Note that the boots sole quest in life is to keep contaminants/water away from the rack shaft.
Replace that boot or the shaft will eventually look like the one at the end of this post, the very end.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rack-pinion-service-tools-tips.312600/#post-8072827

 

Yea haha I'm an idiot and did some water/mud crossings with a torn boot. Passenger side boot is torn, but I'm assuming water and gunk can find their way throughout? Would it be stupid to try to shove a vacuum in when I take the boot off to suck shit out?

 

If there is more crud than a casual wipe with a shop rag will take care of I would put some ATF in a squirt bottle and douche/wipe it out with that. Cycling the steering from one side to the other will expose more of the shaft but there will still be portions that will be tough to access with out taking it apart. All the pass side is exposed with the boot pulled back.
Note that the lower end of the control valve shaft rides in a needle bearing about the size of the end of your pinky. It's the absolute lowest point of the rack under the driver side boot and it can't be cleaned/greased without pulling things apart.

 

If it's just the pass side boot that is torn, water could be forced into the driver side thru a passage intended to equalize air pressure as the boots expand and contract. There is some mention/photo in the write up.

 

Thank you I'll inspect what I can and report back