Valve cover gasket replacement

So that process looks pretty straight forward. I do believe I have a small leak in mine. While I have it off what other things should I consider doing maintenance wise. Has never been off before. Was planning to replace the spark plug seals in it while at it. I have heard some about valve adjustments??? Is that something I should consider?

 

yes, yes and yes. At least check your clearances while their open for inspection.

 

Not sure if you're I4 or V6. Timmy has an excellent video on the valve cover gaskets for a v6, as well as the valve clearance inspection. Well worth the watch and note-taking.

I always suggest replacing the vacuum lines while you are down that far. There are just some lines you can't get to unless you remove the intake manifolds, so a valve cover gasket job is a perfect time. The other bigger ticket item are the injectors. Same reasoning- you gotta take the intake manifolds off to reach them.

 

Just did this a few weeks ago.

Check valve clearance
Change PCV valve and grommet
Clean intake runners and throttle body
Replace vacuum tubing(beware that some have diff diameters on the each end)
Spark plugs if they are due

This was on the V6 motor. You didn't state what you have.

 

How do you handle that?

 

Either get the smaller of the two and force fit it over the larger end(within reasonableness) or use a hose with a clamp on the smaller end.

 

Where do you all order your shims from? Mine is 3RZ so before I crack into I wanna have the place to order them from.

 

You don't know which ones you need until you open and measure them. You can swap them around to clearance them and just replace the ones that you need. I bought mine from my local dealership and there was a 4 day lead time.

 

Or just bite the bullet and order the correct hose from an online dealer.

 

That's certainly an option but I've read that it will cost you to the tune of $400+ whereas fitting my own hoses was less than $20.

 

How many of the dual-diameter hoses do you plan on replacing?

 

That is COMPLETELY inaccurate. Why would you post something like that without confirming it first? The truth is, OEM hoses will always be more expensive than generic silicone stock, but $400 bucks is more than double what yota shop used to sell in a kit. It cost me around $100 to order all the hoses from Toyota parts deal. Yota shop charged a pretty penny for packing them all up for you.

 

There is only one hose that falls into that category. It's the FPR to intake resonator/silencer connection. The smaller end connects to the metal tube between the upper and lower intake manifolds, and the larger to the resonator/silencer.

 

Again, that is what I've read to replace all the hose with OE hose.

 

If you're talking about pt. #17373-62090, I got mine from McGeorge.com. It was under $12.00:

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-hose-air-no-3-1734362090

 

Yup that's the one. The rest are consistent end-to-end.

 

Again, $400 is completely inaccurate.

 

This is not accurate. There is a three way split on the back of the motor where two of the hoses have different diameter ends. In addition, the FPR has a smaller diameter than the tube on the manifold, then from there the hose to the intake is also different, as you mentioned.

 

These ones:


Those are the same size end to end. I still have my original tucked away in the garage.

 

Not when I did mine. Maybe there were YTY differences. The end connecting to the 3way valve was substantially bigger than the other end so much so that even with a clamp it would be sketchy.