Clean VHF/CB radio installs

I forget who pointed out the crimped antenna cable on my original install, but I redid it to avoid crimping.

Here is the permalink to the post several pages back in this thread.

Clean VHF/CB radio installs

Last time I looked it was all fine, but I'll recheck it tomorrow to make sure that it's still fine.

 

Do you have a link for that antenna mount?

 

I used the one from Valley Enterprises, they are really popular with the hams in my area. I ordered it direct as the Tacoma model was not available on Amazon though there stuff is usually available on there. https://www.valley-ent.com/store/fe...4-inch-nmo-mount-2015-2021-toyota-tacoma.html

Also I recommend you get the browning NMO cable from them too, it is fully enclosed so it is waterproof on the bottom unlike many others. I ended up cutting off the SO239 connector to get it through the hole in the firewall (drilled the center of the existing grommet for a tight seal) and then soldered a new end on it inside.

 

Ok was able to finish mounting and wiring the head unit last night, wire is all tucked into the headline then down inside the A-pillar and under door sill molding to radio base under passenger seat. I have to say this is one of the cleanest installs I’ve probably done.

Still want to do something better with the microphone and maybe install a speaker closer to drivers side.

 

Nice job! It’s a shame that Icom stopped making the ID-880s and 4100s. The small control head is super for a clean install.

 

How is the mic wired up? Interesting spot, I think I would find it a pain to keep reaching up to change freq/channels/etc but if you know your mic controls well enough it shouldn’t matter too much.

 

Right now it just comes out between the passenger seat and the center console. I may wire a jack in the center console but Icom mikes have the silly hook to hang and I haven't found out how to convert it to a standard button yet, even though I've seen photos of it done, and I'd like to do that first.

 

Retevis is having another sale:

https://www.retevis.com/11-11

I have no affiliation....

 

How did you mount the unit to the bottom of the seat? I've also never removed my seats, anything to know about doing it? Just starting to think about installing a GMRS since most groups wheel with are moving away from CB and going to that.

 

I just zip tied it to the bottom, there is a waving spring pattern under the the seat you can see in my photo so with a little planning it's easy to find a way to zip the mounting bracket tight and I've used this same technique for almost 20 years. Just think about seat movement so you have enough extra cable to allow it.

Seat removal is easy, 2 bolts in front and 2 more in back hold it to the floor (remove plastic covers in back), once unbolted just lean it backwards and adjust the back until it stays leaning, no need to unplug any of the cables. When done just lean it forward, line up holes, and its done.

 

Awesome, thank you for the info. I'm still in the early stages of this idea but having a rough plan is helpful.

 

I don't do this, but it's recommended that you disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. There is an airbag in your seat, and there is a risk it can deploy when you are working near it. Again, I don't do this, but I recognize the gamble, and you should have the info to make your own decision.

 

I have removed and reinstalled the passenger seat (which also has SOS/airbags) twice (or three times?) now for my sleeping platform. Each time removal and install, I have forgotten to remove the battery lead. It has not popped, etc etc.

Also, with install, I have NOT had to recalibrate the SOS system. Both times (3? can't remember at this point) the airbag/seatbelt lights have turned off when the truck was started.

To be fair, I am not saying DO IT THIS WAY - in fact, I recommend DON'T do it like I did.......

 

My radio has a mounting bracket. I flipped it over and put the "hook" side of adhesive vecro on the bottom. The mounting bracket now sticks to the carpet under my seat and has plenty of airflow.

 

I’ve did that on some of my RAV4s, but it looked like it would catch on things under the seat so I used this method I’d had luck with on other cars with less room.

 

So for the microphone jack installed in the center console storage, cable comes up and out the phone charger cable groove. If I did it again I’d put it a half inch higher to clear the first loop of the microphone cable but it still just works.

 

What's the go to recommendation for a truck mounted GMRS with controls solely in the mic so I can hide the head unit? If I'm going that route I would want a 50 watt unit. The Midland MXT575 looks like it's brought up a lot but I'm open to any other options.

Also, is the RJ45 connector simply an Ethernet cable or is there more to it? Trying to think ahead for my install with the head unit under the seat, I'd like to install a jack for the mic under the climate controls so I know I'll need to run a wire for that connection.

Lastly, what is the preferred antenna and mount for those with a roof rack? I can mount a magnetic mount to the roof that's no problem, but I see a lot of guys installing the antenna to the rack. Although ground plane should be better directly on the roof I think.

 

The

$165 Midland mxt275 MicroMobile® GMRS Radio – 15 watts Two-Way Radio with Integrated Control Microphone – Overland Caravanning Tractors – Detachable External Magnetic Mount Antenna - 8 Repeater Channels

Midland mxt275 and 575 are the only 2 handheld type units like that that I’m aware of. I had a mxt275 and didn't like the button layout but ymmv. Left it in the vehicle I sold and won’t be replacing it with another.

The rj45 is just the connector and the cable is essentially cat cable. I ran a cat6 cable fr my unit over to the rj45 pass through I had and it worked fine. A lot of the “OEM” switch type rj45 pass throughs are cheap crap though. If I had to do it again I would’ve gotten something higher quality.

I have yet to buy another GMRS, as I’ll probably go with a kg1000g but I’ve run both typical antennas and recently ran a low profile

$72 Larsen LP450NMO Larsen 450-470 MHz Mirage Low Visibility Transit Style Antenna - Black

Larsen LP450NMO. Seemed like it worked well enough and just fit under my roof rack on my GX470. Only reason for that was I frequent parking garages.

Roof mounted is the gold standard but if you want to mount it to the rack just get a non-ground plane (NGP) antenna for GMRS bands.

 

@littlefish

I got one that was, maybe not OEM? It was decent enough quality, it worked.

I had some issue (I was using it with a CB

$155 CMX760 Bearcat Off Road Series Compact Mobile CB Radio, 40-Channel Operation, Ultra-Compact for Easy Mounting, Large 7-Color Backlit LCD Display on Mic with Built-in Speaker Mic, Black

CMX760) with one of the lead wires, can't remember. Long of the short I wanted to take it out and re-connect the IN wire.

HO. LEE. BALLS. That thing did NOT want to come out. In the end it did not come out in one piece.

The midland head units are small enough to tuck away anywhere, really. I read a post someone tucked one ABOVE their head unit, in the dashboard. I had my CMX760 tucked behind the plastic covers near my right foot, and just ran the mic out to the mount that I put on the center stack. Worked great.

 

I meant “OEM” as in it was designed to fit the original switch slot but was a $10 eBay special. I had a similar issue. Went to take cable out the back of the pass through and it was a bitch to get out. That and the back half kept popping off, and the front facing side was the opposite, rather loose fit for connectors which made zero sense.

I scrapped it for a cheap Home Depot rj45 female/female connector that I hid under the console and worked way better.