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Rack Saver

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by 2004Taco, Jul 2, 2022.

  1. Jul 2, 2022 at 5:11 PM
    #1
    2004Taco

    2004Taco [OP] Financially Irresponsible

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  2. Aug 12, 2022 at 10:58 AM
    #2
    tsab916

    tsab916 Well-Known Member

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    I dont see it forsale on the website, is it still avalible?
     
  3. Aug 12, 2022 at 4:08 PM
    #3
    2004Taco

    2004Taco [OP] Financially Irresponsible

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    If it's not on his website, try calling, DM or email. He always answers back.
     
  4. Sep 19, 2022 at 4:47 PM
    #4
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Mine showed up today. It's definitely pretty burley! They are partial Diy so it's perfect fitment to your rig.

    20220919_142354.jpg 20220919_142333.jpg 20220919_142446.jpg
     
    2004Taco[OP] and tsab916 like this.
  5. Sep 26, 2022 at 7:22 PM
    #5
    mtnkid85

    mtnkid85 Well-Known Member

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    35s, Locked, blown
    Anyone running this put some miles on it yet? Wondering how the steering feels afterwards?
     
  6. Sep 26, 2022 at 7:26 PM
    #6
    2004Taco

    2004Taco [OP] Financially Irresponsible

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    I couldn't tell a difference after install. Solid set up.
     
  7. Sep 26, 2022 at 7:29 PM
    #7
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Is there any resistance or drag or does it just act as a floating reinforcement?

    Neat idea, especially for the big tires. Even small tires eat racks on 1st gens.
     
  8. Sep 26, 2022 at 7:38 PM
    #8
    2004Taco

    2004Taco [OP] Financially Irresponsible

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    I didn't notice any drag. I went to see Tommy at his place and he installed it. I drove 103miles, about 2 hours away from my house and I didn't feel a difference. Feels like stock.

    Tommy did say to put some Tri Flow with PTFE every once in a while to help.
     
    Bishop84[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Sep 28, 2022 at 6:07 PM
    #9
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Stage 1 before rack saver is converting to full heim steering. I already had heim outters with stock inners to begin with.

    I installed new Total Chaos rack bushings so everything was as tight as can be.

    I picked up new Lh and Rh heim and weld bungs at Sdhq along with jam nuts. The Camburg clevis kit already came with misalignment spacers, and I reused the spacers from my old outters. Bonus round, if you buy the rack saver from TT the Camburg clevis kit is cheaper through them.

    I measured the alignment as is with current setup before removing anything. This way I could set it back where it was to measure my new tie rod length. After that it was just cutting and welding. Don't forget to leave some threads showing so you can adjust both ways in the future.

    I re measured the alignment once done and twisted the tie rods as needed. Next I will be installing the Rack saver.

    20220928_094019.jpg 20220928_095651.jpg 20220928_101322.jpg 20220928_104427.jpg 20220928_115019.jpg
     
    Wishbone Runner and tsab916 like this.
  10. Sep 30, 2022 at 3:21 PM
    #10
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Installed the Rack slider today.

    1st drill out the sway bar bolt holes to 3/8".
    Later on I had to touch up the holes with a 1/4" die grinder burr to get perfect alignment.

    Next remove the vertical center Rack bolt and replace it with the longer one in the kit. Tighten.

    Get some spare 3/8 hardware for mock up and a few large washers for center bolt.

    Put the Slider on the truck and leave it a little loose. I used a few washers on the center mount so I could save the nylock until it was ready to be tightend at the very end.

    Center your steering rack. Mine was 3.075" on each side (measured on the inside).

    With a piece of wood and hammer, tap and center the Slider in its housing.

    Now measure from the Camburg clevis to the Slider to see if it's parallel. Move the Slider housing as needed to achieve this. I ended up having to die grind about 1mm on driver side to make things happy.

    Double check with a digital level between Rack and Slider. Shim if necessary. Measure everything again. I used he tail end of digital calipers to measure from outter edge of slider to outter edge of clevis.

    Once aligned, put the big spuds on and snug.

    Now measure from spuds to Clevis. You may need to rotate Clevis so the weld on will be centered on spud.

    Cut and grind weld on to fit between Clevis and Spud. Hint, it should be the same length on both sides, otherwise something is crooked.

    Bolt the weld on down, Double check everything one last time, this is it.

    Tack the weld on in 4 places.

    Weld it to the Spud on the truck. Be sure to cover the Rack and Slider if using Mig, don't want splatter on those surfaces. I used Tig so no issues.

    Now get the Triangle Gussets out. Look at them close, there is actually 1 point that is longer than the other 2. Mark this point, it goes on the Weld On.

    Grind a relief in Triangle to clear the weld you just did.

    Square the Triangle up and tack weld.

    Once every is cooled down, remove Spuds and finish welding the Triangle gussets on the bench. I added the 2nd Triangle on the bench since it was difficult to locate and tack on the truck. This also made welding the 1st Triangle very easy since there wasn't anything in the way.

    Let these cool.

    You could now remove the slider and Paint it. You could actually do this 1st too. Once spuds are cool, paint them too. I ofcourse didn't paint anything, yet.

    Now install the Spuds and use a little thread locker on all 4 bolts. Install new supplied hardware on slider. Double check it's alignment if you removed to paint.

    I was able to cut 3 or 4 threads off center bolt and still engage nylock. Ground clearance.

    You may need to re align truck now.20220929_142409.jpg 20220929_142546.jpg 20220929_143855.jpg 20220929_145237.jpg 20220929_153431.jpg 20220930_095723.jpg 20220930_095730.jpg 20220930_102759.jpg 20220930_103720.jpg 20220930_103740.jpg 20220930_110140.jpg 20220930_125121.jpg 20220930_143207.jpg
     
    jubei, 2004Taco[OP] and DocME like this.
  11. Sep 30, 2022 at 6:37 PM
    #11
    TT Motorsports

    TT Motorsports Member

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    TT Motorsports front Race LT Kit 2.5co 3.0bypass 2.0 bump TT Motorsports 4 Link Kit with trussed 9inch,air locker, 2.5co 3.0 bypass 2.0 bump TRD supercharger, URD goodies, JBA headers.
    2004Taco[OP] likes this.
  12. Oct 1, 2022 at 6:49 PM
    #12
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    1st impressions.

    After initial install and driving around town, very tiny drag on steering. Almost unnoticeable, only in lane with minor corrections to account for uneven pavement. Just the slightest drag.

    Put a little Tri-flow on it and hit some rough desert road. First 10 feet I knew the game had changed. Steering wheel felt solid and didn't bounce in my hand one bit. Probably drove harder than I have in awhile. Had to simmer down just to make sure we would make it home in one piece.

    Once back on a normal road I couldn't notice the drag at all. It just needs a little play time to break in.

    So happy with this purchase! Such a game changer. Would buy 100% again!
     
  13. Dec 6, 2022 at 11:56 AM
    #13
    TT Motorsports

    TT Motorsports Member

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    2003 Double Cab Long Bed
    TT Motorsports front Race LT Kit 2.5co 3.0bypass 2.0 bump TT Motorsports 4 Link Kit with trussed 9inch,air locker, 2.5co 3.0 bypass 2.0 bump TRD supercharger, URD goodies, JBA headers.
    2004Taco[OP] likes this.
  14. Feb 28, 2023 at 8:56 AM
    #14
    TT Motorsports

    TT Motorsports Member

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    TT Motorsports front Race LT Kit 2.5co 3.0bypass 2.0 bump TT Motorsports 4 Link Kit with trussed 9inch,air locker, 2.5co 3.0 bypass 2.0 bump TRD supercharger, URD goodies, JBA headers.
    Ok guys I have 1 of these in stock with pre notched threaded bungs from rack tube to clevis. I am selling that one with that since it may end up perfect or a slight gap for $950 Shipped. Shoot me an email and i'll get you hooked up. TTMotorsports805@gmail.com
     

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