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2001 Tacoma, 4WD, V6 3.4L crank but no start

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SharonGonnason, Dec 5, 2022.

  1. Dec 5, 2022 at 4:28 PM
    #1
    SharonGonnason

    SharonGonnason [OP] New Member

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    Ok, so I have SCOURED the internet and this forum looking for an answer that may help with our situation and I can't find anything that really depicts what we're going through so I am hoping there might be someone who has encountered this issue or may know where to direct us.

    We have a 2001 Tacoma, V6 3.4, 4wd with a manual transmission. This vehicle was purchased a year ago by my boyfriend for his dad to use in Oregon. Since owning it, the timing belt broke but was fixed. The ignition had been replaced as the key broke off inside the tumbler. The truck was able to be started for a while with the new key but the dad stated he couldn't start the truck with the key after a while so he bypassed it with a push to start. Also, the balljoint on the driver's side exploded which caused the truck to slide on the rotor. All the required suspension pieces (both driver and passenger) have been replaced. After this happened, an issue with the daytime running lights started where only one side would illuminate. Lastly, the dad advised that 4WD will not engage but is unsure when this issue may have started as he doesn't use it often.

    Cut to a few weeks ago, just before Thanksgiving.

    The dad says the truck is running like crap as if it's firing on 5 cyclinders instead of 6. I agree, sounds like it's running rough and that he should take it home and we'll look at it. He gets home, it's dark and snowing so we decide to look at it later. He later says that the check engine light had been flashing but he had to still drive it around town before taking it home. The next day, he tries to start/drive it and it starts but then dies. Now, the truck will crank, but not start. We do a tune-up (spark plugs, ignition coils, wires, and igniter), replaced the cam and crankshaft position sense, tested for spark, and got nothing. We can smell raw fuel so we know we're getting gas. When we go to crank the engine, the check engine light illuminates like it's supposed to, so the ECU is talking, we're getting gas, but no spark.

    We tested all of the fuses under the hood and under the dash, and all of them came back good. We checked the codes and it showed a misfire in cylinders 3, 4, and 5. There was also a code relating to the CAT but it's been there for a while. There was also a code relating to the SQUIB, but had been on for a few months. There is no alarm installed on the truck.

    We believe it's electrical but are really not sure where to even start and hoping someone can help us with this mystery or give us some options to try.
     
  2. Dec 5, 2022 at 6:01 PM
    #2
    ArizonaBrian

    ArizonaBrian Well-Known Member

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    No spark even on the non-misfiring cylinders? I'd check for power on all the coils (black wire w/ red stripe) including to the igniter then make sure the igniter ground is good (brown wire).
    I'd also want to see the freeze frame data when the code set. The fact that you smell fuel would seem to indicate it's receiving cam and crank signals... unless it's pulling from a blown diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator. So just to make sure check the RPM needle when you crank and see if it flutters at all. If you have a scan tool w/ live data check the engine RPM while you crank just to make sure it's receiving the signal.
     
  3. Dec 5, 2022 at 6:49 PM
    #3
    SharonGonnason

    SharonGonnason [OP] New Member

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    Thank you for the reply!

    We checked two of the coils, one that was involved in the misfire and one that wasn't and neither had spark.
    When we go to start it, the RPM needle does not move. It was working as it should before this issue (when driving it would register your speed).

    We have an OBD II scanner that can check the live data, we'll check for signal and get back to you.

    We've tried turning it over quite a few times over several days as potential fixes have been made, with the most recent attempt resulting in the raw fuel smell so I'm fairly sure it's moving new gas but we can check that to be 100% sure.

    The RPM needle not moving was why we replaced the crank sensor, with no change. (No start and no movement on the RPM needle.)
     
  4. Dec 6, 2022 at 10:24 AM
    #4
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao Well-Known Member

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    A lift, some wheels, some tires, some performance, some cosmetic and then audio.
    This happened to me a few times so I will tell you what happened in my case but I am not sure if this is going to be your issue but you can at least rule these out. 1st time it happened when it was running like crap and check engine light came on was when I washed my engine bay and got water inside the spark plug. 2nd time this happened was when I changed my spark plug (not related to water in the spark plug situation) and forgot to tighten this ground bolt:
    upload_2022-12-6_10-21-8.jpg
    Last but not least most recently when this happened to me was my starter kill on my Clifford Concept car alarm brain went bad.
     
  5. Dec 6, 2022 at 2:28 PM
    #5
    SharonGonnason

    SharonGonnason [OP] New Member

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    2001 Tacoma, V6, 4WD, Manual
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    Update
    I confirmed that the truck has a new fuel pump within the year.
    Also, on two occasions, the truck briefly stumbled immediately upon start-up. These instances occured on different days and we could not replicate it.

    There is a dead fuse under the dash (not getting power at all) for the ignition (7.5 amp) but the dad has said it's been dead prior to the no start issue we're experiencing.

    Under the dash as well, the 20 amp fuse for the ECM is looking off (testing good but looks melted) so we're going to switch it and see what happens.

    Thank you sirsaechao, I'll look into the ground. I think we have the old coils here somewhere and I remember them being corroded I believe. I'll take a picture of we still have them.

    Nothing is too small of an issue if it fixes it! Thank you again for the suggestions!
     
  6. Dec 6, 2022 at 3:15 PM
    #6
    DemApples

    DemApples Kainoa HI

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    Supercharged w/ 7th injector 97 ECU swap 2001 front end swap TRD e-locker rear end swap 6 inch crossmember lift stretched to 11.5” 3 inch body lift 14.5” total lift
    That 7.5 amp fuse is more than likely the reason the ignition “stopped” working the second time.

    As for the ecm fuse, EFI I believe it’s called. On my 3.4 1995.5 and 2.7 2000 Tacoma’s the EFI fuse was 15 amp not 20.

    I would check for cam/crank signal at the ecm. Never hurts to properly clean the MAF either!
     
  7. Dec 6, 2022 at 3:16 PM
    #7
    DemApples

    DemApples Kainoa HI

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    Supercharged w/ 7th injector 97 ECU swap 2001 front end swap TRD e-locker rear end swap 6 inch crossmember lift stretched to 11.5” 3 inch body lift 14.5” total lift
    If you have cam/crank signal at ecm but still no spark... I hate to say it but that would be brain
     
  8. Dec 6, 2022 at 3:59 PM
    #8
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    The Tach gets its signal from the igniter on the 5VZ.
    Without a scope, all you can really do is check power to the Black/red wire of the igniter.
    And Ground on the brown wire of the igniter.
     

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