Bad MAF??

Unfortunatly that is not the MAF that I need. 22250-75010 is the part number on my MAF and on that very same site it is $745.33! But even though I bought a knock off MAF I dont feel that was the problem as it didnt change the problems.

 

I've been wondering about this, and its the last thing I can think of that "makes sense".

 

Any more info as to why you think a coolant temp sensor would be the issue??

I did this swap myself. I bought the motor with harness from a guy that striped it all out of one truck that was wrecked. He said it ran fine when pulled, unfortunatly I had no choice but to believe him at that point. He did have pictures of the truck and it was a roll over wreck with no engine compartment damage so I was fairly satisfied with that at the time.

 

So I was told the motor was out of a 95. It is the early version with a distributor, not two seperate coils or COP. It has an OBD1 port but I dont have an ODB1 reader, I tried jumpering the TE1 to E1 and reading the CEL flash sequence but I could never get the CEL to flash. Now the interesting part, the harness did not have an OBD2 port, however the FSM wiring diagram show an OBD2 port in conjunction with the OBD1 port so I wired one in. But not knowing if the ECM was even able to output OBD2 codes was why I was not really surprised that I could not get my scanner to connect to the truck, (yes my scanner works, connected to the three other vehicles and one tractor that I have).

 

Coolant temp sensor has alot to do with fuel ratios, and when the resistance isnt correct with the temperature it can cause al sorts of problems.

 

This has me intrigued and was the proverbial smoking gun I was looking for when searching. The truck has a upstream and downstream o2, and interestingly enough the upstream o2 sensor looked almost brand new, and was the only part I got from the guy that looked as such. It also did not come with a cat, so I had to buy one. I did not buy an OEM cat either I just a cheapish aftermarket one. I'll probably be replacing both o2 sensors next.

 

How do you have a cam sensor, the distributor should have that built in.
EFI didnt start until 98 and later.

However this is all goood intel, it looks if you buy a 95~97 2rz,3rz, or 5vz it might be worth it to convert to efi, freeze plug the distrib hole, buy the twin coil packs, maf, and ecm from 98 or newer....
My question is....is there a place to mount on 95~97 heads for that cam sensor?

Looks like the alternative to all this is to buy a $1k MAF sensor......

 

I meant Crank Sensor in the OP, I edited it. Yes the cam sensor is built in to the dizzy. As far as the EFI not starting until 98?? Not sure where you live but in the US the rz series engines were never produced with anything other than EFI as far as I know. And that started in 95, most of which were 96 year model trucks.

 

Here's simular, turns out some pins aren't same over different years.

97 engine + EFI in 95 Tacoma 2wd | Toyota Nation Forum

 

Yeah I kind of assumed that. I think I may be confused, are you suggesting I have the wrong ECM? While I would say its not out of the realm of possibilities I don't thats the issue here.

 

Well the harness and ecm may be a year off, but I'm not the one to ask.

The 95 ~ 97 are almost a sub specialty....there's a small group here that deals with these.
You'll have to search thru forums, or get lucky and have one chime in.

Alot of times with what you had, and tried everything......last resort was a new(salvage) ecm...
They (older ecm's) have gotten so expensive, that's now a pretty tough call....
I bought a backup one for my 98 for $50 couple years ago.....bet u cant do that no more......

 

That's exactly what a knock sensor does on these

 

I think that was his point. Mine doesn't run fine at all so its likely not the knock sensor. If I can get my hands on one at the dealer today ill probably grab one and change it anyway tho.

 

all 3rz engines are obd2 including 1995 years. these trucks are picky with o2 sensors. densos work the best.

also. ive found not all scanners will read the 95-97 ecus. i went through 3 different ones. only one i could get to actually work right is the bafx scanners you can find on ebay.

 

Well I looking into the OBD some more and found that I had the SIL wire pinned in the wrong hole on the OBD port. Swapped it around and wala, scanner connects and appears to be working. Unfortunatly for the time being there are no codes to read. I had the battery unhooked for a few days as well as the EFI fuse out to reset it and the CEL has not come back on yet.

Went to the stealership on Saturday but didn't get O2's. Parts guy couldn't tell me exactly whick ones I needed plus they were a week out, at 100% markup, go figure. Went through double checking for vac leaks and still couldn't find any. However with as rough as it is idling it may be hard to tell. It does seem to be running hotter (like richer if that makes any sense) for whatever reason. I also noticed on the scanner that spark advance was about 5*, but after some reving trying to set the CEL it went to 12*-15* at idle. Is that normal?

 

I should also add that I currently have a the new IAC valve in, and the old OE MAP and TPS. In this current state it also has a slightly high idle at about 1200rpm, that it didn't have before I messed with those sensors and cleaned the TB/Intake. Makes me wonder if the new IAC was just shit off the shelf or if I didn't get the TPS set pefectly that would cause the high idle??

 

Check out partznet dot com for prices/parts on east coast, I use them all the time!

 

Did you ever figure out your problem?

 

Back from the dead. Never did figure out the issue and the truck was put on the back burner all summer and fall.

I bought a leakdown tester a few months back and finally tested it. Not really surprising, but in a weird way relieving, cylinder #2,#3, and #4 all failed. Which coincides with the misfire codes I'm getting. Could hear air escaping from both the exhaust and intake. Nothing in the radiator though so I'm thinking I've got some burnt valves. Gona try to pull the head in the next few days.

Any advise on what to go forward with is appreciated. Is a valve job worth it if the head tests good? Or better off with a new head? (I will only replace with OEM or better) At this point I don't feel like a full top and bottom rebuild is necessary, assuming the head gasket is still "good" and the deck checks flat? I would also assume a new timing chain, guides, water pump etc would be a no brainer?

TIA